• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.6
• /
• pp.140-149
• /
• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.812-825
• /
• 2020

This study compared and analyzed the interaction visual effect of skirt silhouettes and skirt length by body mass index. This study provides basic data for women in their 20s and 30s to choose suitable skirts for their image. Twelve skirts were made, consisting of two categories of body mass index, three types of skirt silhouette and two levels of skirt length. Men and women in their 20s and 30s evaluated the visual effects of the experimental skirts using a questionnaire. The interaction effect of the visual effect following the skirt's length and silhouette by body mass index were analyzed by three-way ANOVA. Overall, a shorter the body and lower body length resulted in better vertical effects in normal weight. In terms of horizontal effects, such as lower body thickness and full-body shape, the 40 cm skirt, 50 cm tight, and A-line skirt were generally shown as better images. Skirt length helped supplement body type rather than silhouette in the overweight section. When the length was 40 cm, three skirts showed a more positive image. This study provide results for women in their 20s and 30s to choose skirts that are suitable for their image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.989-996
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.73-87
• /
• 2004

In the designing stage, the HANBOK CHIMA is created using a flat pattern with linear shapes. However, when worn, the skirt creates a fluid and organic silhouette. According to the wearing method(wrapping), HANBOK CHIMA can create various shapes and movements. In comparison to the general skirt, It is more effective in revealing the wearer's sense of beauty. The method of wrapping the skirt from the rear is a suitable way of wearing the garment in accord with the Korean ON-DOL(온돌) culture and it creates mystique eroticism. We can devide the silhouettes according to six different period of time. The silhouette of HANBOK CHIMA is affected by the following elements: length, width, pleats, textures and the usage of underwear. [1. Koguryo (5C∼6C) - The first Tent silhouette. 2. The South Dynasty Silla (7C∼8C) - The second Tent silhouette. 3. Kyoryo dynasty (l4C) - Cylinder silhouette. 4. The first Chosun dynasty (late 14C∼17C) - Bell silhouette and Cylinder silhouette. 5. The second Chosun dynasty (mid 18C∼mid 19C) - Bell silhouette and Barrel silhouette. 6. The third Chosun dynasty (late 19C∼the beginning of 20C) - Tent, Cylinder and Bell silhouette.]

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.631-646
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of visual evaluation about silhouette image. The specific objective were; 1) to construct of silhouette image evaluation instrument using semantic differential scale for the purpose of measuring the width and length; 2) to identify the factor structure of the silhouette; 3) to test the difference of visual perception to the silhouette as the variation of width; 4) to test the difference of visual perception to the silhouette as the variation of length; 5) to test interaction effect between width and length. The major finding were; For the visual evaluation of silhouette as shoulder width variatiorl, there were significant difference in hardness and softness factor. For the hard and soft image, we should express by variation of the shoulder width. For the visual evaluation of silhouette as skirt width variation, there were significant difference in attention factor. For the attensive image, we should express by variation of the skirt width. For the visual evaluation of silhouette as skirt length variation, there were significant difference in activity factor. For the active image, we should express by variation of the skirt length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.539-549
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study was to find out the moving fitness and slit length of tight skirt in relation to its length & silhouette. Five kinds of length, micro mini, mini, natural line, medi and maxi, and two kinds of siihuette, slim & straight-a total of ten tight skirts-were investigated. Ten college students were chosen for this experiment. The moving fitness was tested by measuring the step length, step width and step angle in the case of walking on the flat and going up the stairway & bus stair. The slit length was tested by measuring the back slit length needed in the case of going up stairway & bus stair. Data were analyzed with use of SAS pakage. The statistics were based on average, standard diviation, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and multiple regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There was significant difference in the moving fitness according to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The moving fitness of slim type was lower than that of straight type and the longer the skirt length was, the lower the moving fitness was. The significance appeared particularly in the case of going up the bus stair. 2. There was significant difference in the skirt length obove slit accorting to length & silhouette of tight skirt. The skirt length obove slit of slim type was shorter than that of straight type. The longer skirt length was, the longer it was from micro mini to natural line, that of medi skirt was shorter or a little longer than that of natural line skirt and there was little change from medi skirt to maxi skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.29
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.46
• /
• pp.159-170
• /
• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.18-28
• /
• 1998

The objective of the study was to observe the difference of moving function of lower-limb in relation to the length 8t silouutte of tight skirt. Four types of tight skirts (2 lengths$\times$2 silhouettes) were made for the experiment. The surface E.M.S in four different locations of leg muscles (Rectos femoris, Semitendinosus, Tibalis anterior, Gastrocnemius) were recorded. The sensory test to decide how to be fatigued after longtime wearing of skirt were examined two times per a day. The fatigue sensory test was scored a Likert-type scale (1= no fatigue, 5=heavy fatigue). Data were analyzed by the repeated ANOVA ann Duncan's multiple range test with use of SAS Package. The main results of this study were as follows: 1. As a result of analysis of E.M.S., in case of walking on the floor there was significant difference in the moving function according to length of skirt and in case of stepping there was significant differnce in three ways (length silhouette, length, silhouette). 2. From the record of walking the step-length, stride-length, step-width were found affected by garments, but foot-angle was not affected. The moving function of slim type was lower than that of semi type and that of ankle-length skirt was lower than that of knee-length skirt. 3. The results of the sensory test agreed with that of E.M.G and Footprints.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50
• /
• pp.5-22
• /
• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.