• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권8호
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2007

This study is to review the costumes of female Shamans through Gamrotaenghwa(甘露幀畵) in the late Joseon Dynasty of the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of Mudangnaeryeok(巫堂來歷) showing Shamanic performances which is kept in Kyujanggak, Seoul National University was the only one thing enabling to compare with the Shamanic costumes shown in Gamrotaenghwa. The earlier Gamrotaenghwa doesn't show the Shamanic features but that of the later part of 18th century shows specific costumes so that the scene of Shamanic performance can be guessed. The Shamanic costumes are classified into 5 types. Type A is considered to have followed the figures shown commonly in earlier Gamrotaenghwa of the 16th and 17th centuries, rather than the traditional costumes. Types B through E show the costumes of the Joseon dynasty. With the basic costumes of skirt and Chogori(a kind of jacket, Type B), the variable costumes worn for each type of Shamanic performances are Mongduri(蒙頭里, Type C), Jeonbok(戰服, Type D) and Cheolrik(天翼, Type E). Reviewing the general style of those costumes, the upper part was tight and the lower part was silhouette of big volume, and the length of Chogori was a little long in the early of 18th century but it became shorter with narrower sleeves from the later part of the same century. According to the general literatures about the outer collars were not overlapped and its side parts were open, with half or no sleeves. In case that the target of Shamanic performance is male god, the Shaman wore the male costumes represented by Cheolrik and Jeonbok. Because these Cheolrik and Jeonbok which were worn during the Shamanic performance have the symbolic meaning to correspond with the male god, they didn't function as ordinary costumes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.960-976
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• 2010

Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2013

The study is intended to produce a modern Cheollik style one-piece dress that stays within the traditional concept of beauty. Specially, the study focuses on Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty among various traditional costumes as its motif. As the Joseon Dynasty changed, the forms of Cheollik changed with it. People of all classes from the commoners to king wore it. Cheolik was different from other traditional costumes because the top and bottom were connected and so it was an easy to wear one-piece clothing. Initially, the ratio of upper and lower parts was one to one, but later on, the ratio changed to 1:2 as the topcoat became wider and length of the skirt was lengthened. Diverse types of pleat emerged such as fine pleat, opposite pleat and long pleat. Collar and string were also diversified and studied by applying the components. To study it, the author considered the previous studies about Cheollik first. Then, the Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty was reproduced. Thirdly, with the motif of Cheollik components, the materials suitable to a one-piece dress design were selected, dyed naturally. Finally, One piece dress design was utilized by using the components and features of Cheollik. 8 pieces of one-piece dresses were made as an ordinary dress and the materials such as ramie, Oksa, hemp, silk, Yeon-hwamun dan and artificial silk were used. Hopefully, other traditional costumes can develop as a practical and ordinary dress.

• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제32권3C호
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• pp.105-111
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• 2012

해상 풍력발전기의 기초로 사용되는 버켓기초에는 수평하중과 모멘트가 크게 작용한다. 그러므로, 수평하중과 모멘트에 대한 지지력을 증가시키기 위해 3개의 단일 버켓기초를 묶은 Tripod 버켓기초가 적용되고 있다. 본 연구는 ABAQUS(2010) 해석을 수행하여 점토 지반에 근입된 Tripod 기초의 무리효과와 지지력을 분석하였다. 변수연구를 위해 버켓간 간격비 S/D(S=버켓과 타워중심간의 거리, D=버켓 직경)와 근입깊이비 L/D(L=버켓의 지반 근입깊이)를 변화시키며 해석을 수행하였다. 구성모델은 정규압밀 점토지반에 대해 Tresca 항복기준을 적용한 탄성-완전 소성 모델, 그리고 버켓기초에 대해 탄성모델을 적용하였다. 하중조건은 절점의 변위를 증가시키는 방법으로 연직, 수평 그리고 모멘트 하중을 재하하였다. 해석결과로부터, 단일 버켓기초와 Tripod 기초의 지지거동과 지지력을 비교한 후 단일 버켓의 지지력을 이용하여 Tripod 기초의 지지력을 산정하는 방법을 제안하였다.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.123-131
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• 1998

개화기 이후 서양복이 도입되면서 한복에 일어난 변화를 1920년대 이후 조선일보의 마이크로필름과 1950년대 이후의 의상 잡지를 중심으로 살펴보았다. 한복 개량의 시기는 변화 내용의 질적, 양적 특성에 따라 해방이전의 소극적 변화기와 해방 이후의 적극적 변화기로 크게 대별하여 분석하였다. 소극적 변화기는 기본적인 한복의 틀에서 벗어나지 않았으나 기존 한복의 길이, 폭과 치마허리에서 약간의 변화가 나타났던 시기이며 적극적 변화기는 한복의 구조에서 벗어나 그 이전시기에 비해 뚜렷한 변화를 보였다. 적극적 변화기는 변화특성에 따라 다시 해방이후로부터 1950년대와 1960년대의 두 시기로 분류하였다. 1950년대에는 서양복의 다트의 개념이 한복에 도입되었으나 아직은 한복의 구조에서 서양복의요소를 가미하는 정도로만 변화가 있었다. 그런데 1960년대에는 서양복착용이 보편화 되면서 서양복에 한복의 특징적인 요소를 반영하는 것으로 완전히 뒤바뀌었다. 서양복이 점차 일상복으로 자리잡게 되자 한복은 1950년대말경부터 예복으로 착용하게 되었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.132-145
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• 2002

This study conducted a questionnaire survey of family restaurant employees in Seoul on their satisfaction and preference in working uniforms, and analysed the result to suggest adequate designs to serve the purposes of uniforms. The result is as follows - First, many pointed out a need to improve generally showing a low satisfaction with varying degrees according to sexes and ages. More women complained about colors, designs, materials and sizes than men did, and young employees in their twenties wanted better designs, colors and sizes in the order while those in their thirties and forties were dissatisfied mostly with materials. The need fur the improvement was focused on function and designs, and as for uniform materials, perspiration absorbency had the highest level of dissatisfaction. Second, about 40% of the respondents said the skirt width, pants length, and sleeve width were trio small or too big, therefore it is vital to improve uniform sizes. Third, the employees on duty felt uncomfortable mostly when they sat, and the neck and armhole parts were the most uncomfortable. The most easily tainted parts were in the order of the collar, front hem, and sleeve seam for upper garments, and the hip, bottom hem, and pleats for lower ones. Therefore it is required to develop functional uniforms considering the body features and momentum. Fourth, the most preferred material was that guaranteed easy movement and good air-permeability, and colors were in the order of white, beige and black for upper garments, and black, beige and blue for lower ones. And plain, natural and stripped patterns were preferred by both men and women. As seen so far, restaurant employees were mostly dissatisfied with the design, movement, and function of their uniforms demanding functional ones made of better and comfortable material. Uniform designs were suggested based on the analysis of the demonstrative rese.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.771-786
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• 2020

This study aims to develop a life-friendly, wrap-one-piece style dance sports practice wear considering the physical characteristics of middle-aged, abdominally obese women. These types of practice wear allow people to enjoy exercise easily and to wear these garments as daily wear while meeting the requirements for dance sports wear. The three participants selected for this study were all women with five or more years of dance sports experience and were all average sized on Korea's abdominal obesity scale. In the first phase of the study, practice wear was created in a total of nine styles with three different styles of neckline depths for three different styles of dress skirt lengths. In the second phase of the study, the practice wear was created in 15 styles with five different styles of sleeve lengths for three different styles of waistline heights. After analyzing the design preferences of the participants, the fit preferences of the designs were evaluated and the final appearance was analyzed in order to suggest a pattern. The results of the subjects' first and second preference evaluations showed a preference for a 10 centimeter neckline depth, for high waistlines, and for elbow to wrist-length sleeves. The implementation of this research is expected to be extensive, as its results can be used as basic data for making lifestyle dance sports practice wear that covers the physical insecurities of middle-aged, abdominally obese women and enables them to enjoy their leisure time.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.296-304
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• 2021

Research on the development of marine renewable energy is actively in progress. Various studies are being conducted on the development of wave energy converters. In this study, a numerical analysis of wave-energy extraction performance was performed according to the body shape and scale of the sloped oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter (WEC), which can be connected with the breakwater. The sloped OWC WEC was modeled in the time domain using a two-dimensional fully nonlinear numerical wave tank. The nonlinear free surface condition in the chamber was derived to represent the pneumatic pressure owing to the wave column motion and viscous energy loss at the chamber entrance. The free surface elevations in the sloped chamber were calculated at various incident wave periods. For verification, the results were compared with the 1:20 scaled model test. The maximum wave energy extraction was estimated with a pneumatic damping coefficient. To calculate the energy extraction of the actual size WEC, OWC models approximately 20 times larger than the scale model were calculated, and the viscous damping coefficient according to each size was predicted and applied. It was verified that the energy, owing to the airflow in the chamber, increased as the incident wave period increased, and the maximum efficiency of energy extraction was approximately 40% of the incident wave energy. Under the given incident wave conditions, the maximum extractable wave power at a chamber length of 5 m and a skirt draft of 2 m was approximately 4.59 kW/m.