• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2017

Skin has a strong barrier function to protect the body from external harmful factors. This strong barrier function of the skin makes for any effective substance difficult to permeate through the skin. The purpose of this study was to evaluate skin permeability of the reduced particle size by non-invasive method. The particles were prepared by high-pressure emulsification. The niacinamide prepared in a high-pressure emulsification was absorbed 1.56 times higher than the control sample. In addition, it was found from the sixth layer of keratin that was removed by tape-stripping method. This was significantly deeper penetration. The whitening efficacy of the sample containing niacinamide was evaluated before and after 6 weeks of use. The skin color was significantly improved in both pigmented area and non-pigmented area. Through this study, it was possible to visually and quantitatively confirm the permeability confirm the permeability of the reduced particle sample into skin.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.258-267
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• 2023

In this study, to investigate the possibility of using ethanol extract of Petasites japonicus (PJE) as a functional material, we investigated the activity of improving skin barrier and inflammation through UVB-induced human keratinocyte (HaCaT cell). As a result of confirming the antioxidant effect through DPPH radical scavenging activity, ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity, and hydrogen peroxide scavenging activity, it was confirmed that it had an antioxidant effect similar to that of ascorbic acid, a control, at a concentration of 1 mg/ml. As a result of confirming the mRNA expression of the production ability of filaggrin and aquaporin-3 in HaCaT cells induced by UVB, it was confirmed that the reduced expression level by UVB stimulation increased in a concentration-dependent manner when the PJE was treated. It was confirmed that the mRNA expression of TNF-𝛼 and IL-1𝛽 were increased by UVB stimulation and decreased when the PJE was treated. As a result of the migration assay, it was confirmed that the proliferation of skin keratinocytes and the recovery rate of wounds were increased in a concentration-dependent manner. Based on the experimental results, it suggests that Petasites japonicus can be used as a functional cosmetic product that can improve skin moisturizing and skin barrier function.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.33 no.11
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• pp.905-914
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• 2023

To evaluate the effectiveness of the skin barrier improvement of lactic acid (LA) and gluconolactone (GL), the expression of filaggrin, loricrin, hyaluronic acid (HA), hyaluronan syhthase-2 (HAS2), and aquaporine-3 (AQP3) in keratinocytes, and the moisture content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by clinical trials were evaluated. The expression levels of filaggrin and locricrin, which are the main factors affecting the proper functioning of skin barrier function, and HA, HAS2, and AQP3, which are skin moisturizing-related proteins measured by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and western blotting. The results showed that the expression levels of the factors that decreased by H2O2 treatment were significantly increased by LA, GL, and a mixture of LA and GL at the mRNA and protein levels (p<0.05). The nanoemulsion containing a mixture of LA and GL was prepared using the emulsion inversion method, and the average particle size was 299.9 ± 0.287 nm. After measuring the TEWL of nanoemulsion using Vapometer, it was found that TEWL significantly decreased by 15.53% and 26.73% after two weeks and four weeks of product use, respectively, compared to TEWL before product use (p<0.001). Similarly, the skin moisture content of the nanoemulsion significantly increased by 15.40% and 26.59% after two weeks and four weeks of product use, respectively, compared to skin moisture content before product use (p<0.001). Therefore, the skin barrier function and moisturizing effect of a mixture of LA and GL are shown by increasing the moisture content and decreasing the TEWL by increasing the expression of filaggrin, loricrin, HA, HAS2, and AQP3. This suggests the possibility for the development of functional cosmetic ingredients in the future.

• Journal of Marine Bioscience and Biotechnology
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.31-34
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• 2010

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body from the unwanted environmental influences. The outermost layer of the skin is stratum corneum which consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. Ceramides covalently bound to keratinocytes are essential for the barrier function of the skin, which can be disturbed in the disease, like xerosis. Xerosis is an abnormal dryness of the skin which reduced the thickness of stratum corneum and ceramide content decreasing with age. In this study, 36 seaweed extracts have been tested for screening of xerosis inhibitory agent by in vitro HaCaT keratinocyte assay. Ishige sinicola and Helminthocladia australis induced the significant amount of ceramide-like substance I in HaCaT keratinocyte among the tested seaweed extracts. Sargassum fulvellum, Chondrus ecellatus and Gigartina tenella also induced the ceramide-like substance I whereas Helminthocladia australis and Pachymeniopsis elliptica induced the ceramide-like II from HaCaT keratinocyte.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.640-647
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• 2023

The skin, the largest organ in the body, undergoes age-related changes influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The primary external factor is photoaging which causes hyperpigmentation, uneven skin surface, deep wrinkles, and markedly enlarged capillaries. In the human dermis, it decreases fibroblast function, resulting in a lack of collagen structure and also decreases keratinocyte function, which compromises the strength of the protective barrier. In this study, we found that treatment with γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA) had no toxicity to skin fibroblasts and GABA enhanced their migration ability, which can accelerate skin wound healing. UVB radiation was found to significantly induce the production of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), but treatment with GABA resulted in the inhibition of MMP-1 production. We also investigated the enhancement of filaggrin and aquaporin 3 in keratinocytes after treatment with GABA, showing that GABA can effectively improve skin moisturization. In vivo experiments showed that oral administration of GABA significantly improved skin wrinkles and epidermal thickness. After the intake of GABA, there was a significant decrease observed in the increase of skin thickness measured by calipers and erythema. Additionally, the decrease in skin moisture and elasticity in hairless mice exposed to UVB radiation was also significantly restored. Overall, this study demonstrates the potential of GABA as functional food material for improving skin aging and moisturizing.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.353-359
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of $7-MEGA^{TM}$ 500 on the improvement of skin aging in an UVB-induced photo-aging model of hairless mice. The dorsal skin of hairless mice was exposed to UVB three times a week for 12 weeks to induce skin wrinkle. After inducing the wrinkle, $7-MEGA^{TM}$ 500 was orally administered once a day for 4 weeks. Skin thickness, skin barrier function, and wrinkle indicators were improved by treatment with $7-MEGA^{TM}$ 500. Both gene and protein expression levels of MMP-3 and c-Jun in skin were significantly decreased by $7-MEGA^{TM}$ 500. Therefore, the intake of $7-MEGA^{TM}$ 500 is thought to have a positive effect on the improvement of skin aging, although further studies are needed.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.41-47
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• 1994

The effect of Azone and ethanol on the electrical properties of human and hairless mouse skin was studied and the results were compared. The complex electrical impedance was measured as a function of frequency, and resistance and capacitance were determined from Nyquist plot. After the treatment of human-heat separated epidermis with Azone, contrary to the expectation, resistance increased about 60% and it did not change with time. Capacitance also increased; immediately after the treatment, it was about 110% of pretreatment value and it increased further with time. On the other hand, when hairless mouse skin was treated with Azone, marked changes occured; resistance fell almost to the value of bathing medium itself and capacitance increased to about 200% of its pretreatment value. Similar result were obtained when hairless mouse skin was treated with 100% ethanol. The results suggest that there are differences in the strength of barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) between human and hairless mouse skin. Overall, the results provide further mechanistic insight into ion conduction through the skin and into the role of SC lipids in skin capacitance.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.185-191
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• 2021

Environmental pollution is defined as contamination of the earth's environment with materials which interfere with human health, quality of life, or the natural functioning of the ecosystem. Whenever a prolonged and repetitive exposure to environmental stressors exceeds the skin's normal defensive potential, there is a disturbance in the skin barrier function leading to the development of various skin diseases. Major air pollutants which affect the skin are polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, volatile organic compounds, nitrogen oxides, particulate matter, cigarette smoke, heavy metals and arsenic. Dermal uptake depends on the deposition of air pollutants on the skin surface, the composition of epidermal lipids, and the diffusion through the epidermis to the blood vessels.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.