• Korean Journal of Korean Medical Institute of Dermatology and Aesthetics
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.198-228
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• 2005

Oriental cosmetics make the skin radiant by supplement and circulate qihyul(氣血). Oriental cosmetics aim at the radiant skin based on inner health. It accords the new trend of 21th century, well-being and naturalism. Recently a lot of new oriental cosmetics have been developed and enjoyed great popularity. The research of oriental cosmetics elucidated the active compounds having whitening effect and wrinkle cure effect. And the anti-acne and anti-atopy cosmetics have been researched. The development of oriental cosmetics should be based on oriental medical theory.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.399-404
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• 2009

This paper described the formulation of functional cosmetics and evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy in clinical test. Cosmetics were formulated with highly purified $\beta$-carotene obtained from the culture broth of recombinant E.coli cells. Edible oil for solubilizing $\beta$-carotene, vitamine E for long-term storage, detergent/stabilizer (2.0%) for the complete formation of oil/water emulsion, dimethicone (0.35%) for good skin care, and sorbitol for skin moisturizer were also added as ingredients. Physical or chemical degradation of formulated products stored at $0^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, or $40^{\circ}C$ was not observed for 60-day testing period. In clinical test, 68% of applicants observed wrinkle decrease after 8-week treatment. This result indicates that newly formulated cosmetics have strong potential for improving wrinkle skin care.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.17-28
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• 2024

Objectives : This study was conducted to reveal the scientific mechanism of the anti-skin aging activity of Kyung-Ok-Ko(KOK), which is highly useful as a Korean traditional medicine and functional food. Methods : The skin wrinkle and aging inhibitory activity of KOK was confirmed through in vitro experiments of human dermal fibroblast neonatal cell(HDFn) and in vivo of C. elegans, and hairless mouse(SKH-1). Results : The amount of the C-terminus of the collagen precursor in the HDFn cell culture medium treated with KOK using an enzymes-linked immunoassay kit. The group treated with KOK 200㎍/㎖ was a 28.3% increase of collagen precursor compared to the control group. KOK showed inhibitory activity of MMP-1 compared to the control group at a concentration of 200㎍/㎖. In addition, KOK 200㎍/㎖ showed significant inhibitory activity of thermal stress and an oxidative stress compared to the control group in C. elegans. Furthermore, KOK showed a concentration-dependent(100mg/kg and 500mg/kg) anti-wrinkle formation effect in UV-irradiated hairless mouse(SKH-1). Additionally, when KOK was administered to UV-irradiated hairless mice, an increase in procollagen -1 and -3 genes expression was observed, and mmp-1 and mmp-9 genes, which increase collagen decomposition, decreased with the administration of KOK. Conclusions : The skin aging inhibition mechanism of Kyung-Ok-Ko(KOK) is presumed to be achieved through suppressing thermal stress and oxidative stress, suppressing mmp-1 and mmp-9 genes, and increasing procollagen-1 and procollagen-3.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.129-135
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• 2008

In this study, the potential anti-aging properties of Prunella vulgaris extract were investigated. According to our results, Prunella vulgaris extract increased collagen synthesis(74.7% at 250 ${\mu}g/mL$) and decreased on MMP-1 synthesis(90.2% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase activity(43.7% at 2.0%). Furthermore, it also showed free radical scavenging activity(76.9% at 2.0%) and reduced $H_2O_2$-induced cytoxicity(49.9% at 2.0%). A double-blind clinical study to investigate the effect of Prunella vulgaris extract on the skin's surface was conducted with 22 healthy volunteers, aged 34 to 48 years. The volunteers applied a cream formula with 4.0% of Prunella vulgaris extract, or placebo cream, on each crow's feet twice a day for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkles were evaluated with the naked eye and instrumental image analysis of silicone replicas, followed by statistical analysis. Twelve weeks after application of cream formula with 4.0% of Prunella vulgaris extract, we found significant improvement of facial wrinkle. Moreover, silicone replica analysis confirmed notable improvement in average of R2 and R3 at 12 weeks(p<0.05). These results demonstrate that Prunella vulgaris provides a remarkable and significant tensor and anti-wrinkle effect on the skin, which could be of great use in anti-aging skin care products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.20 no.12
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• pp.1838-1843
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• 2010

Skin aging is related to genetic and environmental factors (e.g., gene mutation and UV radiation respectively). To develop a new anti-wrinkle cosmetic or functional food by using Korean rice wine cake, we examined the effects of Korean rice wine cake, a brewery byproduct, on antioxidant effect, collagen synthesis and expression of MMP-1. Interestingly, we found that Korean rice wine cake has the ability to promote scavenging activity of DPPH radical. We also found that the cell proliferation and synthesis of collagen in HS27 cells was increased by Korean rice wine cake in a concentration-dependent manner. However, elastase inhibitory activity was not changed. In addition, the expression of MMP-1 was inhibited by Korean rice wine cake in a concentration-dependent manner. All these results suggest that Korean rice wine cake can be effectively used for the prevention of wrinkles in human skin.

• Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry
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• v.68
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• pp.238-245
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• 2018

The skin experiences constant physical stimuli, such as stretching. Exposure to excessive physical stimuli stresses the skin and can accelerate aging. In this study, we applied a method that allowed human fibroblasts and keratinocytes to be perfused with media to form 3D skin equivalents that were then uniaxially 10%-stretched for 12 h per day (at either 0.01 or 0.05 Hz) for up to 7 days to form wrinkled skin-on-a-chip (WSOC). There was more wrinkling seen in skin equivalents under 0.01 Hz uniaxial stretching than there was for non-stretched skin equivalents. At 0.05 Hz, the stratum corneum almost disappeared from the skin equivalents, indicating that stretching was harmful for the epidermis. At both frequencies, the production of collagen and related proteins in the skin equivalents, such as fibronectin 10 and keratin, decreased more than those in the non-stretched equivalents, indicating that the dermis also suffered from the repeated tensile stress. These results suggest that WSOCs can be used to examine skin aging and as an in vitro tool to evaluate the efficacy of anti-wrinkle cosmetics and medicines.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.77-85
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• 2022

Retinaldehyde (RA), vitamin A derivative, is an intermediate between retinol and retinoic acid and has an excellent wrinkle improving effect. In this study, Drug-in-cyclodextrin-in-liposome (DCL) was used to enhance the stability and skin penetration of RA. The complex of RA and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD) was prepared by the freeze-drying method, and the presence or absence of inclusion of retinal was confirmed by UV-Vis spectrometer, FT-IR and SEM images. RA was captured in HP-β-CD about 95.6% on 1 : 15 (w/w). The retinal-HP-β-CD complex was encapsulated in liposomes using a homomixer and microfluidizer, with an average particle size of 215 ± 4.2 nm and a zeta potential of -31.2 ± 0.5 mv. In the evaluation of the degradation stability of RA, degradation rate of RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes in water was 1.8% higher than RA-liposome (5.8%), RA-HP-β-CD complex (9.7%) and RA alone (37.6%). RA cream (0.05% RA) including RA-HP-β-CD-liposomes was prepared for clinical test with wrinkle-improving efficacy and skin dermis denseness evaluated for 2 or 4 weeks. RA cream showed a significant wrinkle improving effect without skin irritation. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the double stabilization technology using the DCL system contribu tes to the effect of improving skin wrinkles by increasing the stabilization of retinal.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.363-369
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• 2015

We evaluated the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effects of Aceriphyllum rossii leaf ethanol extract (ARLEE) in vitro using human dermal fibroblasts. The total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of ARLEE were 578.6 and 206.3 mg/g, respectively. At a concentration of $250{\mu}g/mL$, the electron-donating ability of ARLEE was 87.1%. In comparison with the vehicle, ARLEE treatment at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly increased type I procollagen synthesis (p < 0.01) by 50.7%. In vitro ARLEE treatment (10 mg/mL) inhibited collagenase and elastase activity by 97.1% and 99.2%, respectively. Compared with the control, ascorbic acid treatment at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly decreased matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 protein expression (p < 0.01) by 37.0%. ARLEE treatment at $50{\mu}g/mL$ significantly decreased MMP-1 protein expression (p < 0.01) by 46.1%. Ascorbic acid and ARLEE treatments at $100{\mu}g/mL$ significantly decreased MMP-1 mRNA expression (p < 0.01) by 26.1% and 36.1%, respectively. From these results, we conclude that ARLEE has excellent antioxidant activity and even better anti-wrinkle effects than ascorbic acid in human dermal fibroblasts. These results suggest that ARLEE could be used in functional cosmetics for the prevention or alleviation of skin wrinkles induced by ultraviolet rays.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.142-146
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• 2024

There is growing interest in natural cosmetic ingredients as natural cosmetics become popular. As a part of effort to look for natureal cosmetic agent, seaweed Sargassums were tested for functional cosmetic agents. Effective materials were extracted from Sargassum coreanum. Sargassum hemiphyllum, and Sargassum patens by simple hot water extraction. Antioxidation, whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation effects were studied for functional cosmetic agents. Sargassum extracts indicated excellent cell viability, strong anti-oxidation effect by DPPH radical scavenging activity and showed significant whitening effect from tyrosinase inhibition. However, effects of antiwrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation were negligible. In conclusion, Sargassum coreanum extracts showed good possibility for anti-oxidation and whitening cosmetic agent.