• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.914-928
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• 2017

This research investigated the effect of pH of dyebath and dyeing temperature on the dyeability of indigotin and indirubin on silk as well as the relationship between the amount of indigotin and indirubin detected from the dyed silk through HPLC-DAD analysis and the color of samples measured using a spectro-colorimeter. Indigo standard dye and indirubin standard dye were deliberately mixed by ratios 100:0, 80:20, 60:40, 40:60, 20:80, and 0:100 to dye silk with a different pH of dyebath (7, 11) and different dyeing temperatures ($50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$). The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments in silk was calculated using regression equations obtained from standard calibration curves of indigotin and indirubin. A higher indigotin percent ratio resulted in the higher K/S values and the higher amount of indigotin detected from silk. However, higher indirubin percent ratio in the mixed dye did not relate to the higher indirubin pigment detected in silk. While indirubin showed low or negative contribution to the K/S values, it showed a higher effect on the color of dyed silk. Higher amounts of indirubin in dyed silk resulted in a darker PB color, which led to P color with increases in indirubin content.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.133-148
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• 2021

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, many people started working from home while avoiding unnecessary going-outs. As the 'stay-at-home life' becomes standard daily life, the pajamas market is absorbing young consumers, especially targeting Generation MZ, by using one-mile fashion that breaks down the boundary with everyday clothes. Also, owing to the demand for environmentally-friendly textiles, based on the strengthened environmental regulations, the development of textiles considering the environment is expanding. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop fashion pajamas using environmentally-friendly textiles targeting Generation MZ. After theoretically considering the current status of recycled PETs and the pajama market by referring to preceding research, relevant books, and Internet data, this study performed the process setting up the design concepts, developing textiles, developing textile designs, and developing pajamas designs. As a result, this study wove two kinds of mixed textiles using recycled PETs and silk with the concept of 'Going out pajamas', and designed a total four patterns to be applied to those textiles, then digitally printed them. Using the developed textiles, this study produced a total four kinds of pajamas that were practical, trendy, and also good to be used as clothes for going-out. The consumers who are exhausted from the limited environment of the COVID-19 pandemic, are requesting comfortable and trendy in & out door fashion. For this reason, the results of this study are significant in the aspect of suggesting the new-normal fashion trend for pajamas designs.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.680-688
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• 2005

This study was carried out to investigate on the removal of oily and particulate soils from silk fabrics. Various kinds of solvents were used on the removal of two kinds of soils treated into the silk fabrics. The removal of oily soil was analyzed by liquid scintillation counting method, and the removal of oil and carbon particulate mixed soils was evaluated by measuring of reflectance on the surface of soiled fabrics with/without drysoap in solvent washing by Terg-o-tometer. The surfaces of fabrics were also observed by SEM before and after washing. The results obtained were as follows : oily soils were removed efficiently by various kinds of solvents regardless of kinds of silk fabrics in short washing time. The removal effect of solvents from the soiled silk fabrics were high in the order of isopropyl alcohol>trichloroethane>monochlorobenzene>ethylether>perchloroethylene. Oil and carbon particulate mixed soils could be efficiently removed by adding of drysoap in solvent washing. The removal of mixed soils were increased drastically with rinsing and increased drysoap. The removal of soils was more efficiently removed from degummed silk fabrics than from the raw silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.115-124
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• 2006

Natural dyes are environmentally and human compatible. But they are not various or not fast in color. The mixed dyeing have been attempted to solve these disadventages of natural dyes. The persimmon juice dyed fabrics have brown-color and good hygienic properities however low color fastness. The onion dyeing show similar brown-color and have good color fastness caused by querectin existed in onion outer skins. Mixed dyeing was carryied out on silk fabrics using persimmion juice and onion outer skin extract in this study. The mixing method were persimmon juice dyeing and then onion dyeing(P-O), onion dyeing and then persimmon juice dyeing(O-P) and dyeing in the mixture of persimmon juice and onion outer skin extract simultaneously(P+O). The mordants were none-mordent, gallic acid after-treatment and alum after-treatment. Several persimmon juice dyed fabrics were irradiated for 2 hours before onion dyeing(PU-O). The color values of dyed silk fabrics were as follows. The persimmon juice dyed silk fabric developed to yellow-red color after 2 hours of uv irradiation. Onion dyed fabrics show similar yellow-red color after dyeing without uv irradiation. The effect of alum after-treatment on color difference were highest in onion dyeing. The dyeabilities of both P-O and O-P were higher than persimmom juice dyeing and onion dyeing. The dyeabilities of P+O was lower than persimmom juice dyeing and onion dyeing. The value of color difference of alum-treated fabric was the highest. The color difference of P-O and O-P caused from 2 to 4 hours of uv-irradiation were lower than those of persimmon juice dyed fabrics. Onion skin extract could prevent the color-change of persimmon juice dyed fabrics in mixed dyeing. The color difference of PU-O was higher than the P-O.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.415-426
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• 2014

This study investigated the color change, enhancement of dye uptake, washing fastness, and light fastness of cotton and silk when dyed with Juniperus chinensis and Terminalia chebula (combination dyeing) using various methods. The dyeing methods were 1) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract and Terminalia chebula Retzius extract sequentially (J-T), 2) dyeing Terminalia chebula Retzius extract and Juniperus chinensis extract sequentially (T-J), 3) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract and Terminalia chebula Retzius extract simultaneously (J+T), and 4) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract 4 times repeatedly and followed by a dyeing Terminalia chebula Retzius extract in sequence. In terms of increased dyeing uptake, combination dyeing (dyeing 2 times like method 1, 2, 3) had the same impact as the repeated dyeing (method 4). The color of J, T combination dyeing showed wide range of mixed YR series, Y series resulting from Terminalia chebula Retzius, and R series resulting from Juniperus chinensis. In cotton, J-T dyeing method showed superior enhancement of dye uptake, and T-J method in silk. In both of the cases, Y series color from Terminalia chebula Retzius extract was mainly shown (Y series color was superior to R series color after dyeing). Therefore, it is recommended for cotton to implement T-J method and for silk to implement J-T method in order to enhance both dyeing uptake and emphasize the color of R series. The K/S value of combination dyed fabrics was decreased by increasing washing time; however, the K/S value of combination dyed fabrics was increased by increasing UV irradiation time. But after repeated washing and longer UV irradiation, ${\Delta}E$ value of combination dyed fabric became smaller compared to fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis only. Thus, it was found that after J, T combination dyeing, fabric became less prone to fading by washing and UV than after Juniperus chinensis single dyeing was done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.413-423
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• 2013

Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.827-836
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• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.5 no.2 s.6
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• pp.15-24
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• 1996

Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.