• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.349-355
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• 2010

To investigate the half-degumming of raw silk, the degumming was carried out with soap or sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate and some mixed agents at $80^{\circ}C$ for 15 and 30 minutes. With soap of 20~25%o.w.f. degumming losses were about 7~12%. Degumming losses with sodium carbonate of 2~5%o.w.f. were about 6~15%. And about 6~12% wright losses were observed in the degumming with sodium bicarbonate of 20~30%o.w.f. In the degumming with the mixed degumming agents of soap and sodium carbonate, degumming losses were 9~15% with 5%o.w.f. soap and 2~5%o.w.f. sodium carbonate. Sodium carbonate was more effective on the removal of sericin from raw silk than soap. During drying generally half degummed silk yarns stuck together to result in harsh and hard lumps by the adhesion and solidification of the residue sericin of partially degummed silk. Sodium hydrosulfite in degumming agent effectively protected the adhesion of half degummed silk yarns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.827-832
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to scientifically proof possibility of development of natural dye which has antimicrobial activity with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum. For that silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were tested for anti-microbial activity. Bacterials used for test of anti-microbial activity were Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352 and Trichophyton mentagrophytes IFO 5466. The results of experiment were as follows ; 1. The more the number of times of dyeing increase the more value of K/S increased. 2. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 3. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% after irradiation of 20 hour without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 4. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was over 94.8% after dry cleaning. As above silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were acquired a high anti-microbial activity against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.138-143
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• 1996

Cooking of tasar silk cocoon of Deba variety (A. mylitta D.) with tartaric acid has been optimized by using an orthogonal central composite design. Shell weight loss and silk filament recovery are influenced by duration of treatment and acid concentration. Mechanical properties do not change with the process parameters. Hardness of water does not affect significantly the recovery of silk filament.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-72
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• 2009

To investigate the strong and effective sericin fixing agents and conditions, raw silk fibers were treated with the mixtures of urea-formalin, thiourea-formalin and melamine-formalin as sericin fixing agents, respectively. And the treated raw silk fibers were degummed by the degumming liquors of alkaline detergent and sodium carbonate to confirm the hardness of sericin fixation. The weight of raw silk fibers was decreased in the process of sericin fixation treating at 80$^{\circ}C$ for 60min. The effective sericin fixation was obtained by treating at $60{\sim}80^{\circ}C$ for 15min with the mixture of melamine and formalin. The mixture of melamine and formalin showed an outstanding ability of sericin fixation because the three amino groups of melamine were able to cross-link the hydroxy amino acids of sericin such as serine with the assistance of formalin.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.29-36
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• 2022

Over the past decades, silk sericin (SS) received increasing attention in the academic and industrial fields. In nature, SS acts as a glue that holds the two strands of silk fibrils together. However, recent works suggest that SS might have a more diverse role during the silk spinning process, such as stabilizing the SF in the silk gland. On the other hand, the sericulture industry has been trying to find novel applications for SS discarded from the silk fabric manufacturing process. Recovery and refining of SS would be the first step of the recycling of SS. Using a proper solvent SS could be shaped into various forms, such as spherical beads, microparticles, fibers, and films. Moreover, the applicability of these SS materials has been investigated in various fields such as cosmetics, templates for nanomaterials, drug delivery, heavy metal adsorption, and enzyme immobilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.145-155
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• 1995

After I stated the kinds of ancient embro-ideries of Shoso-in and the other places in Japan, including Silk embroidered design of a bird, Silk embroidery on a silk ground, and Buddha preaching. I searched for the possible countries they could have been made in. I found that Japan merely imported the dyes and paints from Korea, On the other hand, Korea unlike Japan, was capable of manufac-turing the embroderies from early times. The embroideries in Shoso-in and the other place, have respectivly on them the old Korean types of patterns such as flowers, lotuses, flying clouds, phoenixes, intertwined lions, houses, ghost masks, fairies and turtles, seen often on the titles of Silla.