• 한국디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국디자인학회 2001년도 Bulletin of The 5th Asian Design Conference International Symposium on Design Science
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• pp.82-82
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• 2001

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.156-162
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• 2013

For the development of high quality textiles, silk fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed silk fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curves of the silk fabrics were increased; however, the tensile resilience of fabrics decreased. The hysteresis values of shear force were increased without significant change of shear stiffness. The coefficient of friction values were also decreased and geometrical roughness values were increased. The silk fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight grow as the number of padding increases. The hand values of silk fabrics which were classified into 6 items in the Kawabata Evaluation System, were evaluated as repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice. The hand values of Koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness) were increased, whereas Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) were decreased by dyeing with persimmon juice. However there was no significant change in hand values according to repeating padding times of dyeing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.19-29
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• 1997

A natural colorant was extracted from Clove using methanol. The dyeabilities and fastness of silk fabrics dyed with Clove extract were investigated. The results obtained were as follows; 1. The colorant extracted with methanol was higher in concentration than that with boiling water and was represented high reproducibility. 2. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60min, respectively. 3. The color depths were observed to be decreased as follows; pre-mordant > after-mordant repeat dyeing > after-mordant > simultaneous-mordant 4. Clove extract dyed brownish black on the Fe-mordanted silk. In case of the other mordants, silk fabrics dyed yellow. 5. The dyed silks had poor light-fastness but good wet-fastness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.17-25
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• 2015

This study aimed to investigate the effects of silk fibroin on bone metabolism in ovariectomized rats. A total of 30 Sprague-Dawley rats were randomized into sham-operated (SHAM), ovariectomized control (OVX), alendronate (OVX+ALEN, 10 mg/kg body weight/d), low silk fibroin (OVX+SF100, 100 mg/kg body weight/d), and high silk fibroin (OVX+SF300, 300 mg/kg body weight/d) groups. All the rats were fed by gavage for 12 wk. At the end of 12 wk, blood and urine were collected for analysis of bone turnover markers, and bone mineral density (BMD) was measured by micro-computed tomography. The results show that the OVX group (p < 0.05) displayed the highest mean body weight gain. Among the five groups, serum levels of bone alkaline phosphatase (ALP) and urine levels of deoxypyridinoline (DPD) were highest in the OVX group (p < 0.05). Bone ALP levels in the ALEN group were significantly lower than that of the silk-treated groups. On the other hand, DPD levels were not significantly different between the ALEN and silk-fibroin-treated groups (p < 0.05). The trabecular BMD was significantly higher in the ALEN and silk-treated groups compared to the OVX group (p < 0.05). In conclusion, this study showed that silk fibroin has similar effects as alendronate, which is used in osteoporosis medication. Therefore silk fibroin might be a new candidate for the prevention and treatment of osteoporosis in patients.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

Tropical tasar silkworm, Antheraea mylitta is a commercial forest silkworm in India that produces tasar silk, but never experimented in Uttarakhand, a Himalayan state of India. A. mylitta express divergent phenotypic characters under different ecological conditions; so, we studied the effect of seven forest tree species in two rearing seasons on variability in silk gland weight of Daba (bivoltine) ecorace of A. mylitta at Forest Research Institute in Dehra Dun, Uttarakhand during 2012 and 2013. We used two-way completely randomized block factorial design and Post HOC Tukey's HSD test to analyse the collected data and there after carried out multiple regression analysis. Results indicated that silk gland weight differed significantly between rearing seasons (DF=1, F=2333.98, p <0.05), host plants (DF 6, F= 1516.25, p <0.05) and their interactions (DF=6, F=7.10, p <0.05). Higher silk gland weight was found in second rearing season than the first on all the host tree species. Terminalia alata fed A. mylitta larvae showed the highest silk gland weight of 8.03 and 9.47 g in first and second rearing seasons, followed by T. tomentosa (7.19 & 9.01g), T. arjuna (6.8 & 8.08 g) and L. speciosa (6.57 & 7.83 g) fed larvae, respectively. Post HOC Tukey's HSD test indicated that silk gland weight of L. speciosa and T. arjuna fed larvae in both the rearing seasons did not differ significantly. E.I. analysis also confirmed that T. alata, T. tomentosa, T. arjuna and L. speciosa are better in their order of merit than T. bellirica , T. chebula and L. tomentosa. Multiple regression analysis indicates that larval weight gain is a strong predictor (β=1.002, t=346.777, p = <0.05) for the silk gland weight of A. mylitta ; however, larval duration had significant negative regression weight (β=-0.270, t=-8.436, p = <0.05) on mean weight of silk gland.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.