• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.31-48
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• 2013

It goes without saying that Yi Mae-Bang, as the sole owner of two of the intangible cultural assets including No. 27 Seungmu in 1987 and No. 97 Salpuri Chum, is a top-notch Korean traditional dancer. Moreover, in regards to traditional clothing, he is also known as the only traditional dancer who directly performs on stage as well as analyzes traditional clothing in order to apply them into his own dance performances by designing and producing them to meet his artistic spirit. In order to examine how Yi Mae-Bang's unique and creative stage clothing was developed, and what kind of process it went through to possess its unique style, which draws the attentions of people with its harmony of beauty and dance, this research first examined the change of the composition through the yearly picture data. Before 1984, the composition of the Salpuri Chum clothes changed by putting on 'Jeogori' on the 'Mudong-Bok' without the 'Kweia' (sleeveless), and in 1999 'Mudong-Bok' became widened with the decoration of embroidered hem making it more attractively colorful. after 2000 it became more splendidly adorned by embroidering hem on widened Mudong-Bok and tucking 'Kweja' in the layers which created silhouette like a dress that is seemingly wider and luxuriant than a skirt. One of notable features of Yi Mae-Bang's Salpuri is that its cloth and cuff ribbons are lightly colored in different colors enclosing the tip part. As for the ribbons, it was also changed as time went by from direct-cutting of the cloth just like the A-line of Mudong-Bok to drawing a diagonal line less than 5cm above the ribbon and 8cm below the ribbon so that it takes the form of getting widened as it gets to the lower part, and its length was also elongated in proportion to that of the bottom of Mudong-Bok.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.125-140
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• 2000

The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.163-175
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• 2000

This study focuses on the Zen style in contemporary fashion which presents itself as one of the dominant cultural phenomena these days. After investigating the basic concepts and features of the Zen style and examining its birth and development, this study moves on to the ways in which it is characteristically applied for the world of fashion. This study is also performed both by the theoretical research on related books and papers for the explication of main concepts and by the practical research on fashion magazines and works of famous fashion designers for the presentation of more detailed illustration. When we are talking about postmodernism, which is a reaction against or a continuation of modernism, as a cultural dominant shown up in the late twentieth century, the Zen style itself can be regarded as a typical representation of postmodernism in fashion. Although the Zen style can be viewed as sharing the basic principles with minimalism which is a main branch of modernism, it is strongly in line with postmodernism (which is human-centered) in that its fundamental idea is based on emotions and feelings of human beings and the purity of natural world. As above, ZEN is a crossover phenomenon between postmodernism and modernism. In this sense, it is said that within the name of postmodernism the Zen style has satisfied our desire to present our inner world of mind with the help of regional philosophy (in this case Oriental one). The four main aspects of the Zen style in fashion are following : simplicity connected with the Oriental moderation, the use of the Oriental silhouette and detail, the destruction of form, and the nature-friendly attitude. These will be under close examination in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.97-114
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• 2009

The purpose of this thesis is to contribute to the fashion industry of Korea and China by providing the basic informations of Korean fashion company planning to launch into the Chinese fashion market, and also presenting the Korean fashion style to the China, by the way of searching the sameness and differences of the casual style. The direct picturing method and comparative analysis were applied for the methods of study. The whole body pictures were taken from the major fashion streets of Seoul and Shanghai, then clear 250 photos were selected in each city. The period for two weeks from 1st, July to 14th, July 2008, and from 10AM until 5PM. The results of study are as follows. The sequential order of frequency is easy casual, jean casual, romantic casual and character casual in Seoul and Shanshai. In case of easy casual, there were many similarities of the preferences in the items, colors and coordinations, while showing the differences in the styling of the clothing. Taking the jean casual, there were no specific differences in items between two cities except the styling of clothing in which the tidy style were more prevalent in Seoul, while the sexy style were more predominant in Shanghai. The main item of romantic style was the one-piece dresses. This was preferred in the style of A-line or H-line with short length, in Seoul while X-silhouette showing the body line with knee-length skirts were more popular in Shanghai. Finally the frequency of character casual is below 5% in both cities. In the items, the skirts were more preferred as a bottom in Seoul in contrast with the pants being more prevalent in Shanghai, the sleeveless top popular in both cities. The modest style were noted in Seoul, the sexy style were more prevalent in Shanghai. However many similarities between two cities were found in the speed of acceptabilities of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.154-168
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• 2009

This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.136-149
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• 2007

This study researched the costume manufacture process by having the musical 'Christmas Carol' as an example and specifically presented the costume manufacture process of an actually performance work, thus it aimed to be helpful theoretically and realistically, by allowing theatrical costume manufacturers and majors in theatrical costume to be informed of the systematically practical affair process of the theatrical costume manufacture and by exhibiting the research work of costume composition aiming at reproducing a silhouette in the process such as costume composition and sewing, and the effectively manufacturing methods such as the costume composition application and the sewing method development aiming at the activity of performers. In the empirical research, it analyzed the features of characters and arranged the manufacture points while actually manufacturing the performance costume, and clarified the systematically performance costume manufacture process such as a manufacture meeting${\rightarrow}$costume list preparation$\rightarrow$work-instruction sheet preparation$\rightarrow$pattern manufacture$\rightarrow$sewing$\rightarrow$performance and inspection. Through performing the manufacture of the really performance work, it is hoped that this study contributes to the development of performance art circles, by presenting a step and a method of professionally theatrical costume to the performance manufacturers and the theatrical costume manufacturers at present when the theatrical costume is solidifying its position as a professional sphere, in the performance and an, has a meaning as the initially empirical research, which can exhibit as a guide of realistically and empirically educational contents for theatrical costume aiming to bring up professional staff for theatrical costume, and becomes help in the efficiently theatrical costume manufacture realistically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.32-46
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to propose a solution for Goguryeo costume and its materials, colors, patterns, and accessories, which have not been dealt with in precedent studies and were treated as irrelevant subjects. The specific object of reconstruction with identification from the historical viewpoint is noble woman's costume(Yu and Gun) on the mural paintings of Jang-Cheon No.1 tomb in Jip-An province. As above, the reconstruction process of Yu(Jacket) and Gun(Skirt) worn by noble woman as depicted on the mural painting of the Baek-Hee-Gi-Ak-Do(百戱伎樂圖) in Jang-Cheon No.1 ancient tomb is suggested in this study. The most important issue for consideration was how to represent and exhibit it so that it resembles the mural painting as closely as possible. And the problems that arose at the time were the ratio and silhouette, which revealed disparities between the one on the mural painting and the costumes reproduced with identification from a historical viewpoint. The most difficult aspect of this work was due to the fact that the actual mural paintings were not available for verification. Therefore accuracy on details such as structure, materials, colors, patterns and accessory were difficult to obtain. So a further analysis of patterns, silhouettes, materials and colors are required for the precise representation of costume and dress on the mural painting.