• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2007

The usage of basic bodice blocks at men's apparel companies is investigated and the domestic and international men's upper bodice blocks are compared to find directions of research on development of bodice basic blocks. The following conclusions are found in this study. 1. The survey shows that basic bodice blocks are not used at men's apparel companies although all the respondents have good knowledge on bodice basic blocks. They responded that basic bodice blocks for representative body figures of each age category or of each country would help comparative studies on domestic and international basic bodice blocks and development of exporting apparel products. Also, they expected the utilization of men's basic bodice blocks both as education materials and in studies of design, of body figures, and of basic blocks for industry. 2. The comparative study on men's bodice blocks shows that waist circumference, hip circumference, neck circumference, height, and shoulder length, in addition to the minimal essential size items such as chest circumference and center back length, are used in most basic bodice blocks. The size formulae of each basic block are compared to find how the sizes are determined. For center back length, either measured back length or a certain proportion of height is used. For front and back interscyes, chest circumference is used in most basic bodice blocks. Either measured size, or a certain proportion of height or chest circumference is used for back height. The averaged ease allowances of basic bodice blocks are 3.2 cm for chest circumference, 10.8 cm for waist circumference, 1.2 cm for front interscye, 0.1 cm for back interscye, 0.2cm for shoulder length, and 0 cm for center back length. However, body blocks for different types of clothes have different ease allowances. Shirt basic blocks have ease allowances of 6.1 cm for chest circumference, 13.7 cm for waist circumference, 1.4 cm for front interscye, 0.6 cm for back interscye, 1.2 cm for shoulder length, and 1.8 cm for center back length. On the other hand, jacket basic blocks have ease allowances of 8.8 cm for chest circumference, 16 cm for waist circumference, 1.1 cm for front interscye, 1.4 cm for back interscye, 1.1 cm for shoulder length, and 0.8 cm for center back length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 1996

In this study, the pattern was copied by the method of Tight Fitting Techinque, which resulted from the changed body by the upper limb motion-front-vertical motion(or vertical motion in front), side-vertical motion, and horizontal motion. And, this study analyzed the change of the pattern and the observed items dimension changed to the pattern. The results are as follows: 1. In the observation of the degree of the pattern change according to the motion of upper limb, the result provides that the motion change in the range of $135^{\circ}$ to $180^{\circ}$ is the largest in front-vertical motion, $45^{circ}~90^{\circ}$ in side-vertical motion, and $0^{circ}~45^{\circ}$ in horizontal motion respectively. 2. The probability test result of the items of the motion is more related with the horizontal width item rather than the vertical length item in the front and back pattern where the back pattern has more effect than the front pattern. And the upper limb-surrounding items are more related than any otheer item. 3. The change of the pattern according to the motion shows the decrese of the neck width and the shoulder legth, the rising of the point of shoulder (or shoulder point) and armpit point, the decrease of the pattern width and the increase of the pattern length. As the angle of the motion grows vertically motion. The change of the shoulder length in the horizontal motion is smaller than that vertical. But as the angle of the motion grows horizontally, it has a tendency of decreas in th width of the front patten and the length of the pattern, whereas the width of the back pattern is noticeably increases.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.24 no.10
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• pp.117-127
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to analyze the direct measurement data of 40-59 year old middle-aged men from Size Korea's 7th anthropometric survey, and to identify the body shape characteristics and to type the body shape of middle-aged men. Through this, this study aimed to provide basic data necessary for the clothing patterns of middle-aged men with excellent fit. The data was SPSS Ver. 24.0 program analysis. Factors extracted six including body horizontal, vertical, shoulder, waist front length, leg thickness, and shoulder deflections. The body shape of middle-aged men was classified into three types. Type 1 had a thin body circumference, a narrow width, a low height, a short waist front length, and a thin ankle and calf. Type 2 had a high body height, a long waist front length, a normal circumference and width, a thick ankle, a calf, and a sagging shoulder. Type 3 had a large body circumference, a wide body, a wide shoulder, and a long waist front length. A prominent feature of the changes in body shape of middle-aged men is the increase in the circumference and thickness items due to abdominal protrusion and fat accumulation. Therefore, pattern design according to these physical characteristics is considered to be necessary.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1262-1272
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• 2009

The study is classifies the figures of obese women aged 20-50 with an over 25 BMI from the data of the fifth Size Korea in 2005. As the result of conducting the factor analysis for segmenting the shape, Factor 1, Factor 2, Factor 3, and Factor 4 are respectively derived as the factor on a volume, the factor on the size of the vertical direction, the factor on the shoulder region, and the factor on the body length balance. As the result of conducting the cluster analysis using 4 factors (scores extracted from the analysis of factor analysis) the body type of obese women was classified into four types. The name of shape was specified by combining 'P' (an abbreviation of petite) that indicated the height (smaller than 155cm) among the height names of KS standard, 'R' (abbreviation of regular) that indicated the height (155cm-165cm) and the body characteristics. Type 1 had the longest length, and normal circumference, thickness, and width but with the developed shoulder. Type 1 was classified as a robust, 'Plus-RH'. Type 2 had the middle height, the shortest length of the upper part, a relatively-long length of the lower part of body. Type 2 shows the characteristics of a small body that was classified as 'Plus-PI'. The most obese body was Type 3 that had the normal length and shoulder size but showed the longest length of the upper part of the body; it was classified as 'Plus-PO'. Type 4 as the small shape had a potbelly and showed the characteristics of the shortest body classified as 'Plus-Pb'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to set up an effective marketing strategy targeting college women by researching the relationship between weight control behavior and satisfaction with fit of apparel. The results showed that 1) 85.5% of the college women participated in weight control behavior, and 53.5% of them wanted to lose more than 3kg of their weight, 2) both body cathexis and fit satisfaction of college women were generally low. College women were less satisfied with their body and fit of apparel according to the increase of weight control degree. The weight control parts and unsatisfied body parts were almost matched : thigh, abdomen, hip, calf, and weight. The unsatisfied fit of apparel parts were also found to be thigh, hip, abdomen, crotch, pant length that matched each parts, 3) fit satisfaction of neckline, shoulder, midriff, hip, crotch, thigh, calf, and skirt length decreased according to the increase of weight control degree, and 4) weight control group which wanted to lose weight at neck, shoulder, arm, breast, waist, abdomen, hip, thigh, and calf also had low fit satisfaction of neckline, shoulder, armhole, sleeve, breast, waist, abdomen, midriff, hip, thigh, crotch, calf, and skirt length in clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.881-903
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• 2021

This study aimed to analyze adult men's body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, 'upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size', 'torso height and upper extremity length', 'shoulder dimension', 'upper body length' and 'shoulder angle' were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. 'Slender with big, raised shoulders' was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the 'big abdomen with flat chest' ratio was low, while 'obese with large shoulders' was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.