• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.19 no.2 s.63
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Wind and Structures
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.193-211
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• 2013

This paper presents results from a wind tunnel study that examined the drag coefficient and wind flow over an asymmetric wave train immersed in turbulent boundary layer flow. The modeled wavy surface consisted of eight replicas of a statistically-valid hurricane-generated wave, located near the coast in the shoaling wave region. For an aerodynamically rough model surface, the air flow remained attached and a pronounced speed-up region was evident over the wave crest. A wavelength-averaged drag coefficient was determined using the wind profile method, common to both field and laboratory settings. It was found that the drag coefficient was approximately 50% higher than values obtained in deep water hurricane conditions. This study suggests that nearshore wave drag is markedly higher than over deep water waves of similar size, and provides the groundwork for assessing the impact of nearshore wave conditions on storm surge modeling and coastal wind engineering.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.168-177
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• 2020

Many coastal engineering designs utilize empirical formulas containing the Equivalent Deep-water Wave Height (EDWH), which is normally given a priori. However, no studies have explicitly discussed a method for determining the EDWH and the resulting design wave heights (DEWH) under irregular wave conditions. Unfortunately, it has been the case in many design practices that the EDWH is incorrectly estimated by dividing the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position with its corresponding shoaling coefficient of regular wave. The present study reexamines the relationship between the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position and its corresponding EDWH. Then, a new procedure is proposed to facilitate the correct estimation of EDWH. In this procedure, the EDWH and DEWH are determined differently according to the wave propagation model used to estimate the SWH. For this, Goda's original method for nonlinear irregular wave deformation is extended to produce values for linear shoaling. Finally, exemplary calculations are performed to assess the possible errors caused by a misuse of the wave height calculation procedure. The relative errors with respect to the correct values could exceed 20%, potentially leading to a significant under-design of coastal or harbor structures in some cases.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.813-825
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• 2014

To maximize electric power production using wave energy extractions from resonance power buoys, the maximum motion displacement spectra of the buoys can primarily be obtained under a given wave condition. In this study, wave spectra observed in shoaling water were formulated. Target resonance frequencies were established from the arithmetic means of modal frequency bands and the peak frequencies. The motion characteristics of the circular cylindrical power buoys with corresponding drafts were then calculated using numerical models without considering PTO damping force. Results showed that the heave motions of the power buoys in shoaling waters with insufficient drafts produced greater amplification effects than those in deep seas with sufficient drafts.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.121-127
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• 2008

Numerical experiments with weakly nonlinear MIKE21 BW module and fully nonlinear FUNWAVE model are performed to identify the nonlinear characteristics of Boussinesq models with varying nonlinearity. Generation of waves with varying amplitudes, nonlinear shoaling and wave propagation over submerged bar experiments showed the importance of nonlinear model in shallow water where nonlinearity becomes prominent. Fully nonlinear model showed the nonsymmetrical wave form more clearly and gave larger shoaling coefficients than those of weakly nonlinear model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.128-133
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• 1990

An equation is presented to calculate wave height due to shoaling, refraction and bottom friction. The equation in an integral form is evaluated by two different methods： A numerical method and an analytical method based on approximation. Both methods are used to calculate wave height and show very good agreement between their results. As shown in the figure of wave height variation vs. relative water depth, an increase of incident angle leads to a decrease in wave height. For the case of normal incident wave, the present equation can be reduced, under some assumptions, to the existing equation of Bretschneider and Reid (1954).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.05b
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• pp.532-537
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• 2005

The techniques of internally generating waves on a curve in a rectangular grid system are developed using the line source method. Numerical experiments are conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. (1997). For five different types of wave generation layout, numerical experiments are conducted in the cases of the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, and the refraction and shoaling of waves on a plane slope. The fifth type of wave generation, which consists of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle, shows the best solutions especially when the grid size is small enough.