• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.581-594
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• 2016

Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.77-79
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• 2004

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.60-75
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• 2016

This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men's shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or ${\chi}^2$ test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20's had less experience with tailoring than men in 30's. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20's considered fit more important than men in their 30's. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20's more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30's. On the other hand, men in their 30's preferred one dart shirts than men in 20's. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.107-120
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to characterize the preference for fashion design according to fashion value of Net generation's. This study has 824 samples of individuals aged from 13 to 24. These sampling data are analyzed by frequency analysis, cross-tabs analysis, T-test, LSD-test, MANOVA and ANOVA utilizing SPSS WIN package. The results of this study are as follows; Net generation's is economic value higher than other fashion value and prefer for ring cuffs, mandarin sleeves, shirt collar, round neckline, tailored pants, blue color, check pattern according to economic value. It is proved that in case of shirt, people prefer ring cuffs, raglan sleeves, shirt collar, for jacket, prefer coat cuffs, mandarin sleeves, tailored collar, for jumper, they prefer single cuffs, set in sleeves, soutien collar and for T-shirt, prefer round neckline. For the design and length of pants, people prefer long tailored pants, color of blue and check designed one. It is proved that women haute a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than men do.1318 teenagers have a higher preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than semi-adult. Above university educational-course Net generation has a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than high school educational-course Net generation does. A class of average monthly income of 2-3 million won has a higher degree of preference for neckline-design and color than other lasses do. And there is no difference at the preference for the fashion design when considered classes of average monthly expenditure on purchasing clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.103-120
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• 1999

The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.227-234
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate how the Post-modernism social cultural pattern has been reflected in collar of costume. In the classes social, collar in costume is the expressive medium of ideology and status symbol such as Passium of ancian Ezypt and Byzantin collar which is examined religion belif. The conspicuous function of collar can be examed as the ruff collar, which is the expressive medium of self-confidence, but the whisk collar and the flat collar means decline the authorized conspicous function. In the cultural pattern of Post-modernism, collar in costume presents the coexistence of double-sides value such as androgyny, dividinism and eclecticism. For example, the tailored collar or shirt collar in women's suit with delicate materials express the self-confidence, energy and intelligence, and the round collar or the draped collar in men's suit with rough material express the sensibility and liberty. In the deconstructivity through breaking the basis form of the collar, callar can be transformed in to sleeve, cape or hat on occasion. In conclusion, the function of collar changes by the cultural pattern and expresses the spirit.