• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.8
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.9
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• pp.43-54
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to survey the system of the Korean Gangsin-mu shaman costume and its formative character and to fine out the traditional follow patterns of government officials' attires and Po's meaning of it. The overall shape of variety 'Po's in modern times are similar to the traditional ones, but they differ greatly in size, detail color, and ornamental design. The sleeves have slits in the armholes, which can allow the hands to be drawn out easily. In addition, the knot buttons are used in the modern costumes. They are based on different formation skills from those of the traditional The original color of the shaman's costume is not their taste in color but symbolic, modern costumes color show the shaman's taste in color. This change mean a more accentuated visual effect than incantatory meaning. Another reason for color change is also the costume's material. A kind of constituent element uses synthetic fiber in modern times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.19-24
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• 1979

1. In the late second century A.D. the dalmatic, which originated in Orient, came into fashion in the Roman world. 2. It was first introduced as a vestment in public worship by Pope Sylvester I (314-335A.D.) who ordered it to be worn by the deacons. 3. The dalmatic was cut like a tunic, but wider, and with wide short sleeves. It was worn without belt, and was characteristically decorated by the clavus. Its shape, which is the form of a cross, refer to the passion of Christ. It symbolizes joy, salvation and justice. 4. In early christian epoch, colors was found in the Bible. 5. Clavus running from the shoulders to the hem in front and back represented as 'The servant of God', and symbolized the Blood of Christ. With time, clavi change from simple stripes to decorative ones.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.109-121
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• 2012

This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder's flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist's ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the harmful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement. Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers' range of motion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.47-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the knitwear preferences and purchase behaviors of university students. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam Provinces. The method of this study was a survey and measurement instruments were 34 stimuli which were manipulated pullover patterns and shapes and self-administrated questionnaire with knitwear design preference items and knitwear purchase behavior items. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, Cronbach'${\alpha}$, t-test, ANOVA and $Sch{\acute{e}}ffe$ test using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, university students most preferred achromatic colors, pastel tones, solid patterns, and 100% cotton. Second, as for knitwear purchase behaviors, university students considered the esthetical factor to be most important among 4 dimensions (comfortable, esthetical, economical, and conspicuous factors) as important purchase criteria, and they used internet web sites for knitwear purchases. Third, there were significant differences in preferred pullover shape depending on neckline shape, neck depth, sleeve shape and clothing length. University students preferred the classic pullover design with V neckline, normal neck depth, set-in sleeves and normal length. Fourth, university students preferred the cloud motif and riding man motif among the 9 Baekje traditional motifs and one point small pattern on the left chest and crosswise bending pattern for pattern arrangement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.58-75
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of fur and leather clothes of minority races of China in Northeas and Inner Mongolia. To examine their characteristics, the clothes and ornaments were classified into four types: headwear, clothes, footwear, and accessories. First, headwear was divided into animal head-shaped, petal-shaped, round-shaped, and cone-shaped head wear. Among them, the animal head-shaped headwear was made by making the best use of the shape of animal's head and it was used as the best disguising method when hunting. Second, clothes were composed of upper garments and lower garments. For the upper garments, Po and Jeogori were worn and pants were worn for the lower garments. The clothes were decorated with lining, applique, or top-stitching on the outer collar, neck circumference, and the edge of sleeves and pants. Third, for the footwear, high boots of leather were developed to meet the needs for a convenient life in the plains. In some areas, fur shoes and leather shoes were also used. Finally, accessories included bags and gloves. Bags were usually decorated with fur on the outside or with a fringe or applique of tanned leather. Gloves were lavishly decorated with embroideries and partly with fur or leather.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.807-818
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• 2009

This study is to present a female high school summer blouse with high movement functionality and satisfying appearance, surveyed the students for their understanding of summer blouse. Experimental study's research method was questionnaire survey. By using questionnaires, the satisfaction and comfort of each region of the current worn summer blouse was analyzed. The results of this research are as follows. After surveying 371 high school students in the Daejeon region on the currently worn summer blouse comfort levels, 48.4% showed dissatisfaction about the width of the sleeves and the armpits and over 93% wanted the use of elastic materials as an alternative. After investigating the summer blouses' mending state, 41% of students that mending their clothes chose the alternation of reducing the overall silhouette of the blouse in all areas. This reflects the female high school students' mentality that thin body shape is the ideal.