• 산업기술연구
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• 제21권B호
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• pp.175-185
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• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.1056-1063
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• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제44권6호
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• pp.461-470
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• 2011

Abrupt and gradual levee breach analyses on the flat domain were implemented by laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. To avoid the reflective wave from the side wall the experiment was performed in a large domain surrounded by waterway. A numerical model was developed for solving the two-dimensional gradual levee breach flow. The results of the numerical simulation developed in this study showed good agreement with those of the experimental data. However, even if the numerical schemes effectively replicated the trends of the observed water depth for the first shock, there were little differences for the second shock. In addition, even though the model considered the Smagorinsky horizontal eddy viscosity, the location and height of the hydraulic jump in the numerical simulation were not fairly well agree with experimental measurements. This shows the shallow water equation solver has a limitation which does not exactly reproduce the energy dissipation from the hydraulic jump. Further study might be required, considering the energy dissipation due to the hydraulic jump or transition flow from reflective wave.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.1-5
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• 2000

A numerical analysis for wave motion in the shallow water is presented. The method is based on potential theory. The fully nonlinear free surface boundary condition is assumed in an inner domain and this solution is matched along an assumed common boundary to a linear solution in outer domain. In two-dimensional problem Cauchy's integral theorem is applied to calculate the complex potential and its time derivative along boundary.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.14-20
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• 1991

심해에서 발생한 다방향불규칙 파랑이 수심변화에 의해서 어떠한 형태로 변형할 것인가를 명확히 파악하는 것은 연안구조물의 설계, 연안침식대책 공법의 확립에 있어서 중요한 과제이다. 본 연구는 선형파동이론을 적용할 수 있는 수심영역을 대상으로 에너지 평행방정식에 의해 방향 스펙트럼을 천수변형시킴으로써 얻어지는 제원을 입력조건으로서 파고, 주기, 파향의 결합확률분포를 수치적으로 구했고, 추정된 결합확률분포로부터 에너지 평형방정식의 천수변형예측에 대한 적용성을 수치적으로 검토했다. 또한 수심이 다른 2지점의 3성분 행렬배치에 의해 동시 측정되어진 방향 스펙트럼을 입력조건으로서, 천해역에 있어서의 방향 스펙트럼의 천수변형예측에 대한 에너지 평형방정식의 적용성 및 문제점에 대해서 검토한 것이다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.733-742
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• 2020

Taking the cylindrical float of the floating fence of a floating litter collection device as the research object, based on the shallow immersion characteristics of the cylindrical float, the Morison equation is modified, and the interaction between regular waves and the partially immersed horizontal cylindrical float is discussed in combination with scale model test. The results show that the modified Morison equation can accurately predict the wave force of the horizontal cylindrical float and reveal the influence of amplitude, immersion depth and period on the wave force of the cylindrical float. For partially immersed cylindrical floats, the wave force increases with the increase in wave height and decays with the increase in period. The positive value distribution of the wave force is larger than that of the negative direction, and the difference between the positive and negative directions is mainly affected by the immersion depth.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제28권1B호
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• pp.111-114
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• 2008

파랑의 분산관계식에서 상대수심이 반복적으로 표현되는 순환 관계를 이용하여 파랑분산식의 양해를 개발하였다. 순환 관계를 이용한 해의 초기값으로 Eckart(1951), Hunt(1979)의 해와 심해와 천해에서의 해를 사용했다. 순환해 가운데 심해에서의 해를 초기값으로 사용한 해를 제외하고는 모두 참값으로 수렴하였다. 특히, Hunt의 해를 초기값으로 사용한 해는 다른 해보다 더 빠르게 수렴했다. 순환해는 휴대용 계산기를 사용하여 손 쉽고 빠르게 구할 수 있는 장점이 있다. 선형파의 변형을 예측하기 위하여 해석 해를 사용할 경우 파랑분산식의 양해를 사용해야 하는 데 본 연구에서 개발한 순환해를 사용하면 기존의 양해를 사용한 것보다 더 정확한 해석 해를 도출할 것이다.

• 대한기계학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한기계학회 2002년도 학술대회지
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• pp.209-212
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• 2002

Since Berkhoff proposed the mild-slope equation in 1972, it has widely been used for calculation of shallow water wave transformation. Recently, it was extended to give an extended mild-slope equation, which includes the bottom slope squared term and bottom curvature term so as to be capable of modeling wave transformation on rapidly varying topography. These equations were derived by integrating the Laplace equation vertically. In the present study, we develop a finite element model to solve the Laplace equation directly while keeping the same computational efficiency as the mild-slope equation. This model assumes the vertical variation of wave potential as a cosine hyperbolic function as done in the derivation of the mild-slope equation, and the Galerkin method is used to discretize . The computational domain was discretized with proper finite elements, while the radiation condition at infinity was treated by introducing the concept of an infinite element. The upper boundary condition can be either free surface or a solid structure. The applicability of the developed model was verified through example analyses of two-dimensional wave reflection and transmission. .