• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 1993

The dispersion in the oscillatory flow generated by gravitational waves above the spatially periodic repples is studied. The steady parts of equations describing the orbit of the passive particle in a two dimensional field are assumed to be simply trigonometric functions. From the view point of nonlinear dynamics, the motion of the particle is chaotic under externally time-periodic perturbations which come from the wave motion. Two cases considered here are; (i) shallow water, and (ii) deep water approximation.

• Magazine of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.73-83
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• 1991

A numerical simulation of a 2-dimensional tidal flow in a shallow sea was performed using the frequency domain finite element method. In this study, to overcome the inherent problems of a time domain model which requires high eddy viscosity and small time steps to insure numerical stability, the harmonic function incorporated with the linearized function of governing equations was applied. Calculations were carried out using the developed tidal model(TIDE) in a rectangular channel of lOm(depth) X 4km (width) X 25km(length) under the condition of tidal waves entering the channel closed at one end for both with and without bottom friction damping. The predicted velocities and water levels at different points of the channel were in close agreement with less than 1 % error between the numerical and analytical solutions. The results showed that the characteristics of the tidal flow were greatly affected by the magnitude of tidal elevation forcing, and not by on surface friction, wind, or the linear bottom friction when the value was less than 0.01. For the optimum size of grid to obtain a consistent solution, the ratio between the length of the maximum grid and the tidal wave length should be less than 0.0018. It was concluded that the finite element tidal model(TIDE) developed in this study could handle the numerical simulation of tidal flows for more complex geometrical conditions.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.176-183
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• 1991

In this paper. boundary element method is applied to the analysis of nonlinear free surface wave. A particular concern is given to the treatment of the open boundaries at the in-flow boundary and out-flow boundary, which uses the mass-flux and energy-flux considering the continuity of fluid. By assuming the fluid to be inviscid and incompressible and the flow to be irrotational. the problem is formulated mathematically as a two-dimentional nonlinear problem in terms of a velocity potential. The equation(Laplace equation) and the boundary conditions are transformed into two boundary integral equations. Due to the nonlinearity of the problem. the incremental method is used for the numerical analysis. Numerical results obtained by the present boundary element method are compared with those obtained by the finite element method and also with experimental values.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 2003

Two types of one-dimensional dispersion-correction scheme are developed to take into account the dispersion effects for the simulation of tsunami propagation using ADCIRC finite element model based on shallow-water equations The first is an implicit scheme, and the dispersion-correction is accomplished by controlling the weighting factor assigned to each spatial derivative term of different time levels. The other scheme is explicit and the dispersion is considered by adjusting the element size. The validity of the dispersion-correction scheme proposed in this study is confirmed through the comparison of numerical solutions calculated using the new schemes with analytical ones considering dispersion effect of waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.159-166
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• 2003

In this study, we develop a finite element model to directly solve the Laplace equation while keeping the same computational efficiency as the models based on the extended mild-slope equation which has been widely used for calculation of wave transformation in shallow water. For this, the computational domain is discretized into finite elements with a single layer in the vertical direction. The velocity potential in the element is then expressed in terms of the potentials at the nodes located at water surface, and the Galerkin method is used to construct the numerical model. A common shape function is adopted in horizontal direction, and the cosine hyperbolic function in vertical direction, which describes the vertical behavior of progressive waves. The model was developed for vertical two-dimensional problems. In order to verify the developed model, it is applied to vertical two-dimensional problems of wave reflection and transmission. It is shown that the present finite element model is comparable to the models based on extended mild-slope equations in both computational efficiency and accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.