• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.148-156
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• 2008

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify this model, two numerical simulations for hydraulic experiments of Chawla et al.(1998) and Beji and Battjes(1993) are performed. The computed results show good agreements with measured ones. To identify its applicability to real sea, it is applied to storm wave modelling for typhoon Maemi. Numerical results compared with measured ones at Geoje, Busan and Ulsan show reasonable wave height estimations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 1990

A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Atmosphere
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.205-220
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• 2013

Upper ocean response to typhoon Ewiniar (0603) and its impact on the following typhoon Bilis (0604) are investigated using observational data and numerical experiments. Data used in this study are obtained from the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), ARGO, and satellite. Numerical simulations are conducted using 3-dimensional Princeton Ocean Model. Results show that when Ewiniar passes over the western North Pacific, unique oceanic responses are found at two places, One is in East China Sea near Taiwan and another is in the vicinity of IORS. The latter are characterized by a strong sea surface cooling (SSC), $6^{\circ}C$ and $11^{\circ}C$ in simulation and observation, under the condition of typhoon with a fast translation speed (8m $s^{-1}$) and lowering intensity (970 hPa). The record-breaking strong SSC is caused by the Yellow Sea Bottom Cold Water, which produces a strong vertical temperature gradient within a shallow depth of Yellow Sea. The former are also characterized by a strong SSC, $7.5^{\circ}C$ in simulation, with a additional cooling of $4.5^{\circ}C$ after a storm's passage mainly due to enhanced and maintained upwelling process by the resonance coupling of storm translation speed and the gravest mode internal wave phase speed. The numerical simulation reveals that the Ewiniar produced a unfavorable upper-ocean thermal condition, which eventually inhibited the intensification of the following typhoon Bilis. Statistics show that 9% of the typhoons in western North Pacific are influenced by cold wakes produced by a proceeding typhoon. These overall results demonstrate that upper ocean response to a typhoon even after the passage is also important factor to be considered for an accurate intensity prediction of a following typhoon with similar track.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.483-490
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• 2022

Floating LiDAR is a system that provides a new paradigm for wind condition observation, which is essential when creating an offshore wind farm. As it can save time and money, minimize environmental impact, and even reduce backlash from local communities, it is emerging as the industry standard. However, the design and verification of a stable platform is very important, as disturbance factors caused by fluctuations of the buoy affect the reliability of observation data. In Korea, due to the nation's late entry into the technology, a number of foreign equipment manufacturers are dominating the domestic market. The west coast of Korea is a shallow sea environment with a very large tidal difference, so strong currents repeatedly appear depending on the region, and waves of strong energy that differ by season are formed. This paper conducted a study examining buoys suitable for LiDAR operation in the waters of Korea, which have such complex environmental characteristics. In this paper, we will introduce examples of optimized design and verification of ship-type buoys, which were applied first, and derive important concepts that will serve as the basis for the development of various platforms in the future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.162-168
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• 2017

Shallow-water bathymetry survey has been conducted using high definition color images obtained at the altitude of 100 m above sea level using a drone. Shallow-water bathymetry data are one of the most important input data for the research of beach erosion problems. Especially, accurate bathymetry data within closure depth are critically important, because most of the interesting phenomena occur in the surf zone. However, it is extremely difficult to obtain accurate bathymetry data due to wave-induced currents and breaking waves in this region. Therefore, optical remote sensing technique using a small drone is considered to be attractive alternative. This paper presents the potential utilization of image processing algorithms using multi-variable linear regression applied to red, green, blue and grey band images for estimating shallow water depth using a drone with HD camera. Optical remote sensing analysis conducted at Wolpo beach showed promising results. Estimated water depths within 5 m showed correlation coefficient of 0.99 and maximum error of 0.2 m compared with water depth surveyed through manual as well as ship-board echo-sounder measurements.