The mutual relationship between fashion and architecture and the similarities in their form and structure have been continuously debated over the decades, considering that both spheres are objects used in human life. Both spheres bring about the creation of three-dimensional space structures that are completed by the human body and material, based on a design targeted for people. The similarities between fashion and architecture in terms of form and structure have been debated by western architecture scholars focusing on the support that holds the garment's shape, the tailoring of a men's suit and also the material. The debate originates from the discussion of F. Th. Vischer, Kritische Gnge, and Gottfried Semper during the nineteenth century on the similarities between crinoline and the form of architecture and also the similarities between sewing and architecture. However, architects always regarded fashion as the inferior creative process that follows architecture in viewing the relationship between fashion and architecture. During the mid to end of the twentieth century, contrary to previous decades, the sense of fashion in architecture stood out, as an issue and a different approach was taken in discussing architecture that incorporates fashion. Accordingly, in the mid 1990's, architecture scholars such as Deborah Fausch and Mark Wigley began to conduct close observation of the mutual relationship between fashion and architecture from a more equal point of view. Notwithstanding, their point of view was still biased towards architectural standards. Commencing the Millennium, fashion has become the primary work of creation which leads style in all spheres, and under these circumstances this point of view has transferred from architecture to fashion when thinking about relationships between these spheres. The discussion on fashion and architecture form fashion's point of view is currently concentrated on the post 1990's phenomenon and illustrates the environment that is related to architecture. In general, the discussion is limited to determining a work of an individual designer as 'being architectural' when explaining the sculptural form of fashion. Therefore, this research aims to renew the discussion on twentieth century fashion design, which was neglected in any studies on observing architecture and fashion. The aim of this research is to classify the architectural paradigm of twentieth century fashion design and to observe the architectural forms of the respective eras. It is necessary to have a close observation of the architectural paradigm in twentieth century fashion design where support tools such as the crinoline was avoided and the form and functionality of the garment itself was emphasized. I will conduct this research by considering the architectural form shown in fashion as a practical three-dimensional creation that exists in space.
The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.
The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.
With the subjects of male consumers in their 20s to 40s living in the Ningbo area in Zhejiang Province, this study aims to investigate into the reality of their purchase attitude and size fitness of ready-made suits. The results are as follows; Looking into their demographic characteristics, 70.6% of the subjects were twenties, 60.6% were single, and educational career stood in the order of college, middle school, and high school graduation. They were largely absorbed in free trade, followed by teaching, commerce and service industry. 59.6% of them were Zhejiang Province belongs. One to two thousand yuan was the greatest portion of their monthly income. As for their purchase attitude of ready-made suits, they thought higher of material, quality, activity, and solidity than of design. They preferred to buy clothes at a department store. There was significant difference between purchase frequency and purchase price according to monthly income and jobs. Concerning brand recognition, the Chinese subjects favored "Youngor." Though Korea's brands were very lowly recognized, Korean products received really high recognition. Compared with China's brands, they found foreign brands excellent in design, followed by material/matter, wear, and sewing. As to their physical satisfaction and the size fitness of clothes, most subjects felt happy with their sizes. Trousers and jackets were among the unfitting suit items, while the girth of waist was the least satisfactory size. Therefore, in order to raise the market occupation rate of Korean suit goods in China, more aggressive marketing strategies are required to utilize the current Korean-style entertainment and maximize concerning brand images. In particular, outstanding products in consideration of prices should be made through the proper patternmaking to reflect the body types of the Chinese.
The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.
Mechanical valve is one of the most widely used implantable artificial organs of which the reliability is so important that its failure means the death of patient. Therefore early noninvasive detection is essentially required, though mechanical valve failure with thrombosis is the most common. The objective of this paper is to detect the thrombosis formation by spectral analysis and neural network. Using microphone and amplifier, we measured the sound from the mechanical valve which is attached to the pneumatic ventricular assist device. The sound was sampled by A/D converter(DaqBook 100) and the periodogram is the main algorithm for obtaining spectrum. We made the thrombosis models using pellethane and silicon and they are thrombosis model on the valvular disk, around the sewing ring and fibrous tissue growth across the orifice of valve. The performance of the measurment system was tested firstly using 1 KHz sinusoidal wave. The measurement system detected well 1KHz spectrum as expected. The spectrum of normal and 5 kinds of thrombotic valve were obtained and primary and secondary peak appeared in each spectrum waveform. We find that the secondary peak changes according to the thrombosis model. So to distinguish the secondary peak of normal and thrombotic valve quantatively, 3 layer back propagation neural network, which contains 7, 000 input node, 20 hidden layer and 1 output was employed The trained neural network can distinguish normal and valve with more than 90% probability. As a conclusion, the noninvasive monitoring of implanted mechanical valve is possible by analysing the acoustical spectrum using neural network algorithm and this method will be applied to the performance evaluation of other implantable artificial organs.
To design the cockpit of Korean helicopter, anthropometric data for Korean helicopter pilots as a target population is necessary. The present study measured the body sizes of Korean helicopter pilots to design the cockpit of Korean helicopter, and compared the measurements with those of Korean civilian and the US Army. The sample size was 100 which determined by a statistical analysis. Anthropometric measurements were collected for 100 samples (male = 94, female = 6; age group = 20~40) of Korean helicopter pilots by applying standard measurement protocol. To compare three anthropometric data, Korean civilian and US Army data were controlled by considering age group (20~40) and gender ratio (male: female = 9:1) of Korean helicopter pilots. The average body sizes of Korean helicopter pilots were mostly similar to those of Korean civilian, however, lower limb related variables (hip breadth, popliteal height and thigh clearance) and shoulder-to-elbow length were significantly greater (1~7%) at α=0.05. Furthermore, the average body sizes for Korean helicopter pilots regarding lower limb length and thickness were significantly smaller than those of the US Army (1~12%); however, the average body sizes for Korean helicopter pilots regarding upper body related variables (sitting height, sitting eye height, and acromial height) and hip breadth were significantly greater (0.7~1.9%). Lastly, size variability for Korean helicopter pilots was significantly smaller than those of Korean civilian and the US Army. Anthropometric data for Korean helicopter pilots of the present study was applied to design and evaluate a Korean helicopter cockpit.
Purpose: The franchise system started by Singer Sewing Machine in the US is acting as a national economic growth engine in terms of job creation and economic growth. In China, the franchise system was introduced in the mid-1980s. And since joining the WTO, it has grown by 5-6% every year. However, compared to the growth rate of franchises, studies on shared growth between the chain headquarters and franchisees were insufficient. Accordingly, recent studies related to shared growth between the chain headquarters and franchisees have been active in China. The purpose of this study is to examine the knowledge transfer system between the knowledge creation, knowledge sharing, and the use of knowledge by franchise chain headquarters in China. In addition, the relationship between franchise satisfaction and performance is identified. Research design, data, and methodology: The data were collected from franchise stores in Sichuan, China, and were conducted with the help of ○○ Incubation, a Sichuan Province-certified incubator. From November 2020 to January 2021, 350 copies of the questionnaire were distributed in China, and 264 copies were returned. Of these, 44 copies with insincere answers and response errors were excluded, and 222 copies were used for analysis. The data were analyzed with SPSS 22.0 and AMOS 22.0 statistical packages. Result: The results of this study are as follows. First, knowledge creation has been shown to have a statistically significant impact on knowledge sharing and knowledge utilization. In particular, the effectiveness of knowledge creation was higher in knowledge sharing than in knowledge utilization. And we can see that knowledge sharing also has a statistically significant e ffect on knowledge utilization. Second, knowledge sharing was not significant for transaction satisfaction and business performance, and knowledge utilization was significant for transaction satisfaction and business performance. These results can be said to mean less interdependence of the Chinese franchise system. Finally, transaction satisfaction was statistically significant to business performance. The purpose of this study was to examine the importance of knowledge management to secure long-term competitive advantage for Chinese franchises. This study shows that knowledge sharing is important for long-term franchise growth. And we can see that there is a lack of knowledge sharing methods in the case of franchises in China. I n addition, it was found that the growth of Chinese franchises requires systematization of communication, information sharing measures and timing, help from chain headquarters, and mutual responsibility awareness.
Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
/
v.33
no.3
/
pp.173-187
/
2021
The purpose of this research was to develop instructions for making upcycled clothing accessories related to the 'clothing management and recycling' unit of middle school home economics applying the design thinking technique. Teaching and learning process plans were developed according to the ADDIE model which includes the following process: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. The design thinking process includes understanding the related knowledge, sympathizing, problem identification(sharing perspectives) and idea development, making prototypes, testing, and making the actual product. Thirteen home economics teachers served as critics. Student feedbacks were collected to evaluate whether the course objectives were attained after the implementation. As a result, teaching and learning process plans, course materials, and evaluation rubrics for ten class sessions were developed. Student feedbacks confirmed the attainment of following five course objectives: improvement of ethical responsibilities through the exploration of various clothing recycling techniques, practice of creative and eco-friendly clothing culture, acquisition of the skills to use sewing tools safely, improvement of abilities to think, sympathize, and communicate, and exploration of aesthetic activities and fashion careers.
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