• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.504-518
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• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.203-210
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• 2021

Yuri Vasilyev - actor, director and drama teacher. Russian meritorious artist, winner of the stage "Medal of Friendship" awarded by Russian President Vladimir Putin; academician of the Petrovsky Academy of Sciences and Arts in Russia, professor of the Russian National Academy of Performing Arts, and professor of the Bavarian Academy of Drama in Munich, Germany. The physiological sense stimulation method based on the improvement of voice, language and motor function of drama actors. On the basis of a systematic understanding of performing arts, Yuri Vasiliev created a unique training method of speech expression and skills. From the complicated art training, we find out the most critical skills for focused training, which we call basic skills training. Throughout the whole training process, Professor Yuri made a clear request for the actor's lines: "action! This is the basis of actors' creation. So action is the key! Action and voice are closely linked. Actor's voice is human voice, human life, human feeling, human experience and disaster. It is also the foundation of creation that actors acquire their own voice. What we are engaged in is pronunciation, breathing, tone and intonation, speed and rhythm, expressiveness, sincerity, stage voice and movement, gesture, all of which are used to train the voice of actors according to the standard of drama. In short, Professor Yuri's training course is not only the training of stage performance and skills, but also contains a rich view of drama and performance. I think, in addition to learning from the means and methods of training, it is more important for us to understand the starting point and training objectives of Professor Yuri's use of these exercises.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.40
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• pp.5-35
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• 2020

Affect is intensity and quality that are generated as the physical body senses the outside world. Of experienced affect, notions that are granted meaning and interpretation are emotions. Affect theory distinguishes emotion and affect and by focusing on affect, it provides methods with which to analyze physical body responses and changes and it presents new possibilities to performing arts research that uses the physical body as a medium. Nong-ak is art that concentrates mainly on the occurrence of affect rather than 'representation'. Nong-ak is a performance type in which sound, color, texture, and physical movement overlap and exist in a synesthetic way. Here, physical things such as instruments, props, costumes, and stage devices are gathered together with non-physical things such as rhythm, mood, and atmosphere around human bodies. The physical body is stimulated by these things, displays tendencies that suit performances, and becomes 'the body without an image' as it immerses itself into the performance, acting while displaying 'quasi-corporeality'. The body, which moves automatically as if without consciousness, appears more easily within groups. To transition individuals of everyday life to 'the body without an image', Nong-ak executes the group physical exercise of 'Jinpuri'. Such physical exercise builds up affect by increasing nonverbal communion and communication and brings out the creativity of individuals within mutual trust and a sense of belonging. Affect and emotion stirred up by Nong-ak act as confirmation and affirmation of the existence, vitality, and ability of one's self and groups. Such affirmation recalls Nong-ak as a meaningful and important value from group dimensions and perceives it as a performance form that should be preserved and passed on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.52
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• pp.319-357
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• 2014

Formation of 'body schema' is the start for actor to create role and becomes the root and the foundation of existing as a role on the stage. For this, an actor needs to form 'scheme of role' with escaping from own 'body schema.' 'Schema of role' is formed by acquiring through synthesizing daily basic actions, namely, walking, standing, sitting, hand stretching, bending, and touching. The body schema, which was made with simple and usual actions, has fundamental significance in a sense of becoming the body in which the past traces in a role are habituated while energy as a role flows. As for the process of forming body schema, an actor first needs to obtain the visualized materials like photo, magazine, picture and image available for seeing a role specifically and clearly based on what analyzed a character. An actor needs to have three-dimensional image available for always recalling it in the head during acting. To do this, image data available for fundamentally capturing routine actions along with body structure are still more useful. Next, the body schema is formed by interaction with environment. Thus, there is a need of passing through the two-time process of forming body schema. Firstly, the body schema is made on routine actions in a role as physical condition of a role in actor's own everyday life. Secondly, the body schema is made on routine actions available for moving efficiently and economically in line with the environment of performance. A theatrical stage is the temporal space of rhythm and rule different from routine space. What forms body schema immediately in the second phase without body schema in the first phase ultimately becomes what exists as actor's own body, not the body of a role. The body schema, which was formed as the second process, is what truly has identity as a role in the ontological aspect, comes to experience the oppositional force in muscle, a qualitative change in energy, and emotional agitation in the physical aspect, and experiences perception, thinking, volition, and even consciousness with the entire body in the cognitive dimension. Thus, the formation of body schema can be known to be just a method of changing even spiritual and emotional layer. Body schema cannot be made if there is no process of embodiment and habit. Embodiment and habit are not simply the repeated, empty and mechanical action in the body. But, habit itself has very important meanings for forming body schema for role creating. First, habit allows the body itself to learn and understand a meaning. Second, habit relies upon environment, thereby allowing an actor of making the habituated body schema to recognize environment. Third, habit makes the mind. The habituated body schema is just the mind and the ego of a person who possesses the body schema. Fourth, habit comes to experience the expansion in energy and the expansion in existence. It may be experienced through interrelation among actor's body, tool, and environment. Fifth, habit makes identity of the body. Hence, this just becomes what secures identity of a role. These implications of habit are the formation of body schema, which is maintained with the body of being remembered firmly through being closely connected with the process of neural adaptation. Finally, it sought for possibility of practice as one method of forming body schema for role creating through Deleuze's '-becoming' theory. As 'actual animal-becoming' is real '-becoming' of forming structural transformation in the physical dimension, it meets with what the formation of body schema pursues actuality and reality. This was explained with a concept as saying of 'all '-becoming' molecular' by Deleuze/Guattari. 'Animal of having imitated animal's characteristic- becoming' is formed by which the body schema relies upon environment. In this way, relationship among the body, tool and environment has influence even upon a change in consciousness, thinking, and emotion, thereby being able to be useful for forming body schema in a sense of possibly experiencing ultimately expansion in role, namely, expansion in existence.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.42
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• pp.257-290
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• 2021

The Wonju Nongyo (agricultural work song) is geographically classified as eastern minyo (folk song) which has many distinctive, regional features such as tunes, forms and the use of a melodic line. There has been growing attention to the transmission value of the nongyo including the Wonju Eorirang of the Wonju Origol Nongyo and its region of origin. The Wonju Nongyo is of great value and worthy of preservation in the western part of Gangwon Province. For this reason, it seems fairer to say that a focus should be directed towards establishing the identity of the song and increasing the contextualisation of transmission. At the same time, the preservation association's efforts in passing the traditional song down and education activities fairly deserve equal attention. In addition to the way the folk songs are handed down, a discussion on the facilitation of their use will be required. An in-depth discussion about the restoration and use of the song will be encouraged in a multifaceted manner. Unfortunately, few of the previous literatures on nongyo has gone so far as to investigate Arirang as a separate research topic. In fact, the Wonju Origol Nongyo should be viewed as an intangible cultural asset that paved the way for performance artistry of the Korean agricultural work songs to be seen at a national folk art festival. From the perspective of regional characteristics (traditionally termed "tori"), the Wonju Eorirang represents the cultural value of the manners and customs of our locals which constitute unwritten and neglected literary property and musicality of the song. Particularly, a more attention should be paid to making a record of woodcutters and diversity of farmers' small cooperative groups. The existence of the Wonju Eorirang indicates that the melodies to which the song are sung in Nongyo are of infinite variety. A minyo-singer unfolds various journeys of life through various modes and structure of epic chants, ranging from first encounter, love to marriage, realistic problems to relationship with husband's family and death. The epic chant of the Wonju Origol Nongyo contains a rich variety of regional sentiments about life. In particular, the epic chants of the Galtteukgisor and Ssoeltteukgisori are a genius example of sexual satire and a sense of humor. In the past, the agricultural work songs were rhythmic songs served to synchronize physical movements in groups, coordinating tasks in upland farming and rice paddy with the usage of catchy, repetitive verses easy to pass down. The Wonju Origol Nongyo is a precursor of the work songs which took the farming activities a notch higher to be part of the excitement and festivals. In the context of transmission, a festival serves to demonstrate the value of history and life. The value of the Wonju Eorirang should be appreciated and a concerted effort should be made to find a way to facilitate the transmission of the folk song. A folk-singer is a traditional oral poet and a storyteller of minyo and the forms and species of melody solely depend on the signer. The combination of performance and witticism is shown by the singer freely expressing himself. The Origol Nongyo symbolizes ethnic arts cleverly combining playful effects such as tune, rhythm and old agricultural work of the region. It is to be hoped that much of the efforts is directed to designating such folk songs as the archetype of a cultural heritage. In terms of the foundation on which the folk songs are transmitted, the usage(Performance Content) of a community would be an alternative.

• Journal of Popular Narrative
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.189-219
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• 2020

This study is an analysis of Handol Heung-Gun Lee's Tarae, which is a coinage combining the Korean words for "playing an instrument" and "song", in terms of narrative and aesthetics. The components for analysis are the phenomena and nature of binary oppositions between nature and human beings, between alienation and interest, between division and unification, and between diaspora and people of the national community. Tarae in the period from the late 1970s to the early 1990s described the experience of pain and loss from non-resistance and disobedience in protest against social problems that emerged during the era of miliary dictatorship, such as industrialization, urbanization, reckless development, Westernization, university-oriented education, the gap between rich and poor, human alienation, and the conflicts arising from the division of the nation. After Handol overcame the lack of creative motivation with self-reflection and effort, Tarae took the form of a diaspora epic meta-narratives integrating the "sound of nature and his true nature" and "the awareness of diaspora and the spirit of the Korean people". The epics of the homeland, the national soil and the people, which began with "Teo", became more intense in terms of a sense of diaspora as they shifted their focus from an origin to a path with "Hanmoejulghi" as the turning point. Handol seeks inspiration in the source of narrative rather than in music. His Tarae focuses on "adding rhythm for lyrics". For this reason, the semiotic features of Tarae have a limitation in that its extrinsic phonology is simple even if its intrinsic meaning (i.e., emotion of sadness) is profound and subtle. In order to elicit sympathy from the audience and impress them, it is necessary to strike a balance between the implicit (semantic) part and the explicit (phonological) part. To share the emotion of sadness with more people, it is necessary to strengthen phonological elements. Sympathy for sadness and deep impression on the audience are more often induced by the mood of similar sentiments than by the stories of the same experience. The aesthetics of sadness in Tarae began with the narratives of past experience which were expressed in the contexts of loss, loneliness, and poverty that Handol had experienced since childhood. However, the aesthetics of sadness, deepened over the period of a long hiatus in Handol's career as a composer, formed the narratives of ultimate salvation, embodying even the diaspora experience of others (e.g., displaced people, overseas adoptees, ethnic Koreans in Russia, victims of Japanese military sexual slavery, etc.). This gave Tarae the potential to go beyond the limits of the ethnic group of Korea. Tarae, as a "dispersed sound", can benefit from the appeal of deep sadness at the point of contact with other forms of world music. It may form a global diaspora discourse because Tarae is oriented towards interculturalism rather than anti-multiculturalism. The future challenge and goal of Handol's Tarae would be to continue to find areas of sympathy and broaden the horizon of awareness as diaspora music.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.36
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• pp.75-102
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• 2018

Manjungpan Chunhyangga is established by Manjung Kim Sohee. She selectively chose and arranged the songs by Jung Jungryeol, Song Mangap, Jung Eungmin, Kim Yeonsoo, Park Dongsil, and Jung Kwangsil. Kim Sohee once stated that while a major section of Chunhyangga is based on the songs by Jung Jungryeol, Song Mangap, Jung Eungmin, and Kim Yeonsoo, the whole part of Okjungga is derived from Park Dongsil. However, there is not much material that will provide enough information with regard to what musical characteristics Park Dongsilje Chunhyangga possessed. Under the circumstances, the voice of Park Dongsilje, left by Kim Sohee, triggers curiosity on Park Dongsilje Chunhyangga. It can also be construed that there must be a good reason for choosing Park Dongsilje for Okjungga, unlike other parts. Therefore, this paper attempted to find out what the unique features of Par Dongsilje are and what the reasons behind Kim Sohee's musical choice were through comparison and analysis of Kim Sohee's musical features in Okjungga. The following are the results. Firstly, Okjungga is a created verse by its nature and it does not possess specific features to a school. Therefore, the reason for choosing Park Dongsilje could have been based on musical reason rather than verse. Secondly, the lyrics of Park Dongsilje Okjungga is closer to that of Song Mangap rather than that of Jung Jungryeolje. It can be argued that it falls between the two of them. Thirdly, the tone and melody of Park Dongsilje Okjungga falls in the middle section of Dongpyenje and Supyenje. Fourthly, the analysis of Jinyangjo rhythm out of the whole Manjungpan Chunhyangga shows that there are slight differences among Song Mangapje, Jung Jungryeolje, and Jung Eungminje. Park Dongsilje is very unique in the sense that it does not use utbutim in gyemyeonjo part in Manjungpan Chunhyangga. Park Dongsilje Okjungga is a song to which the tone, melody, and sigimsae of Supyeonje is added to lyric butimsae of Dongpyeonje. It can be seemed as simple and less sophisticated because, with its simple lyric butimsae, it shows a less complicated tone utilization rather than Jung Jungryeol. With lighter decoration of music, feelings can be conveyed more directly. That is probably why Kim Sohee commented on Park Dongsilje Chunhyangga that it is the most mournful song for Chunhyang and it is the song that moves anyone who listens to the song. Consequently, Kim Sohee accepted Park Dongsilje Okjungga and she created different feelings to Manjungpan Chunhyangga which has repeatedly displayed the color of Jung Jungryeol. Combining the lyric addition of Dongpyeon style and the melody of Supyeon style can crated a different language.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.21-29
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• 2023

The Northern Song Dynasty, the heyday of cultural and artistic achievements, brought significant changes to the history of gardens in China. The developments and contemplations that had evolved during the previous Tang Dynasty became intertwined with literature, painting, and art, leading to garden being perceived as works of art. In particular, the emergence of Su Shi(蘇軾) that permeated literature and art during the Northern Song Dynasty, had an impact beyond individual garden creation, influencing the development of public gardens and the diversification of garden. His long exile periods served as an opportunity to understand and reflect the local culture and characteristics, influencing the development of the garden. This study focuses on the ideology of Su Shi(蘇軾) that managed various gardens, examining the relationship between his exlie life and ideology. To do so, the study examines the form of the literati's gardens managed by Su Shi(蘇軾), with a particular emphasis on the Baiheju(白鶴居) garden in Huizhou, revealing the following characteristics and values. First, Su Shi(蘇軾), who was proficient in the Three Houses: Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, combined his philosophy and unique perspective techniques with the location and composition elements of Baiheju(白鶴居) to enjoy the landscape. Although the ancient residence has a simple form, it possesses expansiveness through the combination of internal and external views. The interior is designed to be perceived as a single space, but it allows overlapping experiences of space and simultaneous appreciation of different sceneries. On the other hand, the spatial layout incorporates a hierarchical order to establish a sense of order. Second, the garden reflects the local characteristics, featuring numerous tropical plants and presenting vibrant and contrasting colors with structures. The planting forms embrace the concept of "huosei seikou" (活色生香) to enhance the color harmoniously. Additionally, the garden incorporates the poet's spiritual world, projecting it onto the garden as a contemplative place for spiritual nourishment and exploration of the ideal realm. For the pursuit of serenity and profound contemplation, the selected plantings are simple yet distinctive, providing rhythm and depth to the garden space. Third, Baiheju(白鶴居) has undergone changes over the years, but fundamentally, the form and elements of the garden shaped by Su Shi(蘇軾)'s descendants persist, confirming its heritage value.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.48
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• pp.447-484
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• 2012

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of post-epic theatre in the Belgian theatre director Jan Lauwers' trilogy titled in "Happy Face/Sad Face": (2004), (2006) and (2008). I regard that it played a very important junction for him to create his own theatrical style compared to earlier years. From this period, Lauwers has tried to create his original plays in order to concentrate the story of our era and has showed to combine a variety of media such as dance, installation, video, singing etc. In this context, I would like to study his own theatricality from the three perspectives of dramaturgy, directing and acting largely based on Hans-Thies Lehmann's theory of post-epic theatre, who pointed out the significance of Lauwer's theatrical leading role very early. First, from the dramaturgical point of view, we need to pay attention to the theme of translunary death; where the living and the dead coexist on the stage. In fact, death is the theme that Lauwers has been struggling to research for quite long time. In his trilogy, the dead never exits the stage. The dead, who is not a representative tragic character, even meddles the things among or with the living and provide comments to people. As a consequence, it happens to reduce a dramaturgical strong tension, leads depreciation of suspense and produces humanism in a way. This approach helps to create his unique comical theatrical atmosphere even though he deals with the contemporary tragic issues such as war, horror and death. Second, from the directing point of view, it is worth to take a look at the polyphonic strategy in terms to applying various media. Among all the things, the arts of dancing and singing in chorus are actively applied in Lauwer's trilogy. The dance is used in individual and microscopic way, on the other hand, singing shows collective and is a macroscopic quality. The dance is the representing media to show Lauwer's simultaneous microscopic mise-en-scene. While main plot takes place around the center-stage, actors perform a dance around the off-centered stage. Instead of exiting from the stage during the performance, the actors would continue dance -sometimes more like movements- around the off-centered stage. This not only describes the narrative, but also shows how each character is engaged to the main plot or incident, and how they look into it as a character. Its simultaneous microscopic mise-en-scene intends to function such as: showing a variety moments of lives, amplifying some moments or incidents, revealing character's emotion, creating illusionary theatrical atmosphere and so on. Meanwhile, singing simple lyrics and tunes are an example of the media to stimulate the audiences' catharsis. As the simple melody lingers in the audiences' mind, it ends up delivering a theatrical message or theme after the performance. This message would be transferred from the singing in chorus functions as a sort of leitmotive in order to make an impression to the audience. This not only richens their emotion but also creates an illusionary effect. Third, from the acting perspective, I'd like to point out the "detachment" aesthetic which Lehmann has pointed out. The actors never go deep into the drama by consistently doing recognize a theatrical illusion. The audience happens to pay attention to their presence through the actor's deliberate gesture, business, movement, rhythm, language, dance etc. The actors are against forming closed action by speaking in various languages or by revealing deliberately stage directions or acts, and by creating expressive mise-en-scene with multiple media. As a consequent, the stage can be transformed to not a metaphoric but a metonymic place. These actions are the ultimate intention for a direct effect to the audience. So to speak, Lauwers uses the anti-illusionary theatrical method: the scenes of fantastic death, interruption of singing and dance, speaking many kinds of languages, acting in detachment-status and so on. These strategies function to make cracks in spectators' desire who has a desire to construct a linear narrative. I'd like to say that it is the numerous potentiality to let the reality penetrate though and collide the reality with a fiction. By doing so, it induces for spectators to see the reality in the fiction. As Lehmann says, "when theatre presents itself as a sketch and not as a finished painting, the spectators are given the chance to feel their own presence, to reflect on it, and to contribute to the unfinished character themselves". In this sense the spectators can perform an objective criticism on our society and world in Lauwer's theatre because there are a number of gaps and cracks in his theatrical illusion where reality can penetrate. This is also the point that we can find out the artists' responsibility in this era of our being.