• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.573-585
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• 2023

Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men's dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women's dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon's Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men's dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to examine the correlation between intergenerational Self-Monitoring and the purchase behaviors of clothing product, and the differences between the purchase behaviors of clothing product and demographic variables(mother's job, clothing expenditure for 3 monthes, income). For data analysis, Cronbach's $\alpha$, Correlation, ANOVA(one-way), Duncan-test, frequency, percentage, mean were used. The results of this study were as follows: 1) In the female students of university, Self-Monitoring was found to be correlative with the status symbolism, fashionability, and the aesthetic in the outerwear. And Self-Monitoring in the female students of university was not found to be correlative with mothers'Self-Monitoring and the purchase behavior standard of mother'outerwear. In their mothers, Self-Monitoring was found to be correlative with the aesthetic in the purchase behavior standard of outerwear. And Self-Monitoring was found to be correlative with the status symbolism, fashionability, aesthetic, and economy in the outerwear. 2) Generally, it was found to be correlative among the status symbolism, fashionability, and aesthetic or between the practicality and economy in the purchase behavior standard of outerwear or an ordinary dress. On the other hand, it was found to be correlative between variables of the status symbolism, fashionability, and aesthetic and variables of the practicality and economy in outerwear or an ordinary dress. 3) Mother's job, clothing expenditure for 3 monthes, and income were proven to haute the significant differences in the purchase behavior standard partially.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.12-27
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to study main characters' (Roxie Hart, Velma Kelly) costumes and color images in the movie "Chicago". First, regarding the costumes and color images in characters, Roxie's straight silhouette slip in skin tone reflected her frailty and monotonous routines in reality. On the other hand, a white beaded dress showed her fame-hungry and self-absorption in fantasy. Also, a low waistline blue dress and a see-through black dress with a white collar were to disguise her guilt and draw sympathy to win a suitcase. Black and contrasting colors of red and blue body-suit style dresses expressed Velma's sensual attraction, aggressiveness, and desperation. Second, these images were reinforced by color images in the backgrounds in the film. On the scene of Velma's 'cell block tango', black and red showed her strong character. Contrasting colors of the red and blue expressed Velma's desire and despair in her act of 'the desperation'. As for images of black color on Roxie's stages, they represented her self-absorption and frustration of failing to attract public attention. On the ending of duet performance of Roxie and Velma, the yellow of the background expressed success and joy in life.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.79-95
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• 2002

The Purposes of this study are first to develop the teaching and learning plan for the dress part in high school's Home Economics by the application of the values clarification theory then to apply it to the classroom activities. and lastly to analyze its effects. We developed the master plan for teaching and learning, and developed the 12 hour sub plans including 7 activities and learning materials. The effects of the teaching are as followings: First, When the self-esteem was compared with the whole classes, there was no difference between the twos, but a boy and a girl who were observed as not making a value-oriented life marked higher score in answering the self-esteem. Second. It was found that values clarification theory made student's degree of participation and interest higher and helped them to choose their dresses in the real life.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.225-245
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey of dress and personal adornments of young Korean people from 1980 to 1992. This study is applied of the thoughts of culture of B. Malinowski and related to social and cultual background. The materials of clothes have had higher quality and the colors varied. And sports wear has popularized even for a daywear as people have concerned of the health a lot. Big look and unisex mode in casual wear have been also popular. Underwears and jeans became fashionable. Paints and skirts have been getting shorter and they reached to the mini length. And reformed-Korean traditional clothes has developed. Ecology has been appeared as a whole in fashion. The dress and personal adornments gave satisfaction to modern people who pursuit of healthy ad convenience of life and want to creat the individuality and intend to develop of traditional culture and want to express themselves as perfecdtion of self.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Femme Fatale in Film Noir is a wicked woman character who seduces the male partner to a ruin. In the film, the dress style is of extreme importance for the personality creation of the character as well as the development of the plot. With this background, I have looked over the Femme Fatale dress style that appears in the movie . First, it expresses Femme Fatale which stresses the feminine trait by a dress style with enlarged chest and hip parts and long, slim silhouette with tight waist and knee line. Second, the Femme Fatale with pretended purity presents narcissistic satisfaction like a saint virgin by wearing a neck-high one-piece dress embellished with frills, but the use of mirror represents self-alienation and the vanity of purity. Third, the Femme Fatale with its military dress style presents authoritative sternness which leads seduced male into ruin with its destructive power. Fourth, wearing jersey type or knitted wear that sticks to the body presents sensual Femme Fatale. Fifth, the tulle, chiffon, and white handkerchief used for the creation of grotesque Femme Fatale represents harmlessness and prohibition of immoral behavior, and the black gloves, pillbox, and the number on the tulle present her uneasy psychological state from the fear of being discovered after murdering her husband. On the other hand, the see-through tulle presents alluring sensual beauty. Sixth, the combination of the dialogue in the final sequence and drapery type as in Greek goddess represents the saint virgin of salvation who acknowledges her own fault and returns to her purity again. In addition, accessories and others made from shining material represent hidden conspiracy through simple dress and contradictory dynamics, and shoes embellished with bonbon, etc represent sexual implications in connection with male.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.47-62
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• 2014

People today belong to many different subcultures and have diverse interests. Their job no longer defines who they are, while their pastimes can be a bigger reflection of their inner self. This article examines swing dancers in Korea, and focuses on their self-identity and how they express this through clothes. Based on in-depth interviews, observations and photographs of swing dancers with different day jobs, the study results find that most of the subjects intentionally incorporate swing dance cues in their daily work wardrobe, and that this makes them feel more comfortable, honest and satisfied with their job and identity, both as a swing dancer and working professional.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.87-97
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• 2000

The purposes of this study are to classify the male consumers in new generation by evaluating the fashion mania elements and to examine the differences among consumer groups in product attributes, benefits, dressing for self and others, and sensation seeking tendency. Fashion mania elements are compose of purchase frequency, the storage of clothes, the affection toward clothes and fashion knowledge. Data were obtained from 492 adult male living in Seoul and Kyunggi Do. Statistics used for data analysis were frequency, means, one-way Anova, Duncan's multiple range test, factor analysis, cluster analysis using Spss 9.0. The results can be summarized as follows: There consumer groups are identified based on the fashion mania elements: fashion mania, fashion interests, non-fashion mania. The fashion mania group has positive fashion behavior and high fashion attitude, the fashion interests group has high fashion attitude and light fashion behavior, non fashion mania group has light fashion attitude and behavior. Fashion mania group regard intrinsic attributes very highly in order to express individuality, shows the tendency to dress for self strongly rather than to dress for others. And fashion mania group shows a high sensation seeking tendency compared with the remaining groups.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.337-352
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• 2015

This study suggests designs of maternity clothes wearable after childbirth and aims at confirming that maternity wear is continuously wearable during a post-natal period. As for research methods, theoretical and empirical studies with research on a production of work were conducted, focusing on the design development of the maternity dress which may be worn even after childbirth. The results of theoretical and empirical studies possibly presented various designs which require fashionability going with the trend of time. The maternity wear also requires the adaptability for a changing body shape to enable a woman to wear it during a pregnancy period and after childbirth. Besides, the convenience of dressing and undressing with wearing comfort is considered. 6 sets of one-piece dress were made as the result of the study and three factors of fashionability, adaptability and convenience were considered. The conclusions are as follows : Firstly, it verified that the maternity wear is fashionable clothes not to cover protruded abdomen but to satisfy women's desire of self expression. Secondly, it overcame the limit of dress design through fitting it to completely different two body sizes and shapes with design factors and patterns. Lastly, it suggested a research model of maternity wear corresponding to economical, environmental and ethical principles as giving an effect of "two" dresses with one. This study presented a new direction of design study with meaningful actions of fashion designing in the aspects of economical, environmental and ethical consumption unlike artificial disposal on SPA brands.