• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.700-713
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women's knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.136-148
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the current infrastructure of database on costume cultural heritage. The contents, kinds and accessibility regarding the digital contents of the websites of literature archives, museums and culturecontent.com by Korea Creative Content Agency were analyzed. First, it was evident that the quantity and quality of the database should be improved. The literature archives are mostly comprised of historical documents; however, the quantity of the database regarding the documents that are commonly studied in the field of traditional costume is not satisfactory. On the other hand, the quality of the database depends on the in-depth understanding of the terminology because errors occur when the contents of literature are transferred to an online database. Second, various information is required to meet the needs and interests of the digital environment. Most of the museums provide information on costume cultural heritage through their websites; nevertheless, it is not thorough and only partial. Third, the reliability of information needs to improve. The various contents provided by culturecontent.com lack reliability as it focuses on the entertainment values. To increase reliability, the source and origin of the information about the costume cultural heritage should be provided and the contents should be proofread before they are exposed to the public. Based on these findings, the researchers put forward the following suggestions: the quantity and quality of the databases should be enriched, and that more diverse information is required. Finally, more attention should be paid to increase the reliability of this information. This study will be an asset for the foundation to build solid databases and popularization of the traditional costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.808-820
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• 2008

The costume of Islam cultural area has been affected by the strict social structure, formed by religion, and traditional costume of Islam has been maintained up to these days under the influence of religion. Islam Traditional Costume, which is the succession of the traditional costume of southwest Asia region, became armed with the form of closed costume due to the chastity and oppression. There are figurative features of Islam Folk Costume; first, the dimensional form due to the ampleness, covering the body, second, the reinforcement of closed form such as chador and burqa, third, the symbolism such as the adornment or incantational ornament, which has been inherited from the former times of Islam era, fourth, the color, simplified with black and white. The aesthetic values of Islam folk costume are represented with 'The beauty of abstinency', suppressing the ornamentation and color, caused by the strict social atmosphere under the influence of the form of traditional costume and religion, 'The beauty of concealment' due to the closeness, with affluent costume forms, covering the body and even concealing the face, and 'The beauty of symbol' which is demonstrated with incantational ornamentation of face and interior decoration. In some nations amongst Islam nations, the wearing of hijab is strictly regulated but black chador and burqa are regarded as negative symbols, representing the closeness and oppression of Islam. It is the product of Orientalism from the western perspective. The Islam Hijab culture is the symbol of oppression towards women, but, on the other hand, it is the device to protect women and the traditional culture, symbolizing the identity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.72-82
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• 2012

The purpose of this research to look into formative characteristics of eco T-shirt design. Previous study researchers have mostly focused on overall eco fashion design, but on the other hand the research on eco product entity leaves much to be desired. We analyzed formative characteristics of eco T-shirt design that is easily accessible in real life and is easy to passing message. We selected 23 eco brands through internet and analyzed total 500 photos of eco T-shirt. Each photo was categorized by sex and the nations which belong to the eco fashion world associations. The content and statistical analysis was used for data analysis. The content of the research is as the following. First, it was found out that basic straight silhouette, achromatic color, human pattern, plant pattern, and eco-friendly organic material were used for the design of eco T-shirt. Second, it showed difference of silhouette, color, pattern according to nations. Third, it showed difference of silhouette, color, pattern according to sex. Fourth, symbolism of eco T-shirt was nature love, nature support, society ethicality, anti-sociality, and economics. This research aims for providing practical help and assistance to the development of eco T-shirt and its relevant industries.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.419-432
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• 2021

To help korean fashion brands establish CSR activities in the chinese market in the future, this study investigated the influence of korean fashion brands' CSR fit with Chinese Consumers on Consumer Satisfaction and brand attitude, with the moderating effect of ethnocentrism. An online survey was conducted with 20-39 year-old consumers in China from April 18 to April 30, 2021. Data analysis was conducted using SPSS 24.0 and Amos 24.0. The results of this paper are as follows. First, environmental CSR fit had the greatest impact on consumer satisfaction, followed by financial CSR fit and social contribution CSR fit. Second, environmental CSR fit and social contribution CSR fit had positive effects on brand attitude, while financial CSR fit did not have a positive effect on brand attitude. Third, as customer satisfaction has a favorable effect on brand attitude, it can be inferred that the greater the satisfaction customers feel for a Korean fashion brand in China, the more positive the attitude they develop toward Korean brands. Fourth, there was no significant difference between groups that had a high and low degree of ethnocentrism, confirming that ethnocentrism does not have a moderating effect on consumer satisfaction. On the other hand, in the relationship between environmental and social contribution CSR fit and brand attitude, there was a greater impact in the low ethnocentrism group compared with the high ethnocentrism group, which verifies the moderating effect of ethnocentrism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.62-76
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.950-960
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to provide accurate information of household washers and detergents for consumers, so that help the producers who make washing machine and detergent to get basic material and also help consumers to choose washing machine. Experiment was proceed with two type of washers to compare energy consumption, washing performance, rinsing effectiveness further, damage caused by entanglement of laundry and fabric was assessed. Detergent P and T were used to compare the performance related to differences of ingredients of detergent. Soiled fabrics of EMPA 108 set were used to evaluate performance of washing by different types of contamination. A summary of experimental results are : First, for the consumption of water, drum-type washer consumed 53% less than pulsator-type washer. On the other hand, the washing time was almost similar for both these machines, but pulsator-type washer showed shorter progress, implying that power saving was more efficient in this case. Second, the drum-type washer showed better performance for contamination with all types of detergent, but the pulsator-type washer showed better rinsing performance. Third, the drum-type washer performed less data of tangle level and fabric damage. Fourth, detergent "P" exhibited better washing performance than did detergent "T", regardless of the type of soil. And with no limit of detergent variety, water-soluble protein soil showed high removal rate, liposoluble soil especially pigment was hardly removed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.