• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1261-1274
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• 1997

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2020

The Peking Opera is one of the most representative cultural aspects of China. It includes China's traditional specialties, such as stage performance, stage background, and costumes. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characters and the costume characteristics of the Peking Opera to present fashion design. This research is meaningful for spreading the Peking Opera to the world by applying China's traditional costumes to fashion design. Based on the cultural background of the Peking Opera and the analysis of the opera costume, four sets of women's clothes were made by using the traditional Chinese elements. The conclusions are as follows. First, traditional features such as patterns, colors, and styles from Peking Opera costumes were used in fashion design. The colors and patterns use Chinese traditional aesthetics to carry out contemporary fashion design and apply creative materials. Second, the neoprene used to create the items is a material suitable for the modern design of the traditional Peking Opera costumes. Neoprene has good elasticity and can be cut and sewn in a variety of ways. It can also satisfy the three-dimensional atmosphere and rich morphological changes found in Peking Opera costumes. In addition, a combination of thin chiffon and mesh materials is also suitable for the development of modern designs. Finally, in order to show the effects of traditional works, the patterns were finished by hand-painting. The hand-painted works were then scanned and printed on the material by the digital printing techniques. At the conclusion, the traditional features and feelings of the contemporary designs were presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2011

This study tests the performance of the recommended winter dress OnMapsi for an office worker through the analysis of skin temperature changes according to the heating environment. We tested and compared the effects of with/without undergarments for 4 male subjects in an artificial-climate chamber with two air temperatures of $19^{\circ}C$ and $22^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}10%$ R.H. During the 60 minute experiment that simulated office work, the subjective feelings (that included thermal, humidity and comfort sensation, and skin temperature) were measured at equal intervals. The results show that the forehead and chest skin temperatures were not affected by air temperature or clothing type, while the hand and foot skin temperatures were affected at $0.3-0.9^{\circ}C$ depending on clothing type and $1.9-2.2^{\circ}C$ depending on air temperature. The mean skin temperature was decreased by the experimental time pass more with regular formal wear than with OnMapsi. The second experiment located the ambient temperature in which subjects wearing OnMapsi show equal skin temperaturesto those without undergarments at $22^{\circ}C$. Therefore it is possible to decrease heating temperatures to $18-21^{\circ}C$ in the office for winter OnMapsi wear that produces a skin temperature and thermal sensation that is the same as those at $22^{\circ}C$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.578-587
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• 2012

This study explored an impact of consumer innovativeness on fashion consumption propensity and clothing satisfaction, focusing on female consumers in 20's and 30's. Specifically, the smart phone users had been the subjects of study because they accept new things earlier than others. The collection of data was carried out for one month in September 2011, and a total of 390 copies were used for final analysis. A statistical package SPSS 16.0 was used for analysis of data. First, the impact of innovativeness on fashion consumption propensity was explored. It was found that the innovativeness has impact on ostentation-seeking propensity and personality-seeking propensity. The impact of innovativeness on the clothing satisfaction was explored. It was found that the innovativeness has negative impacts on tangible value satisfaction and intangible value satisfaction. Second, it was found that if an innovative consumer has less ostentation-seeking propensity and less personality-seeking propensity, the innovative consumer gets more satisfaction from tangible value of clothes. On the other hand, if an innovative consumer has less ostentation-seeking propensity, the innovative consumer gets more satisfaction from intangible value of clothes. Third, the differences in consumer innovativeness, fashion consumption propensity and satisfaction dependent on the age of consumers were explored. In innovativeness and fashion consumption propensity, fashion-seeking propensity and personality-seeking propensity had significant differences between different age groups. In satisfaction, tangible value satisfaction had significant difference between different age groups. However, there was no significant differences between different age groups in ostentation-seeking propensity, economy-seeking propensity and intangible value satisfaction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.928-940
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• 2012

The present study aimed to propose the competitive strategy to fashion brand franchise stores by analyzing articles regarding success stores as published in fashion magazines. A total of 91 articles were selected from three fashion magazines and content analysis was applied to extract major factors. Four types of trading areas and eight product types were compared by the major factors. As results, six major factors composing competitive strategy were analyzed such as personal selling, management of sales forces, promotion, customer relationship management, management of store space, and relationship with headquarter. Comparing competitive factors by the types of trading area, management of sales forces and personal selling were crucial for central district and for outlets/interchange district. On the other hand, personal selling and customer relationship management were important for local district while management of store space and personal selling were critical for tenants of the large discount store/shopping mall area. Comparing by product types, personal selling was the most important factor for all product types except young casualwear whereas the second important one was management of sales forces for adult casualwear, womenbbbs wear, and others. For menbbbs wear, sales promotion was the second important one whereas management of store space was the second crucial one for underwear and childrenbbbs clothing. Based on the present study result, it is proposed that competitive strategy of individual fashion brand franchise store should be differently developed because the characteristics of trading area and product type are different and in turn, customers benefit and competition might be different.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.29-42
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to identify the contents that students want to learn the most on Home-Economics. Participants were 710 middle school students(359 boys and 351 girls) from 9 schools located in 4 cities and 5 counties in CholaBukDo. The results are as follows: 1. Of 32 contents on Family life, boys were interested in 'the puberty', 'pregnancy and the ethics on sex', 'social needs', 'the importance of family relationship', and 'adolescents' physical development'. On the other hand, girls were more intered in 'pregnancy' and 'the ethics on sex', 'the puberty', 'development of career consciousness' and 'career preparation', 'the adolescents' physiolosical and physical development', and 'the importance of family relationship'. 2. Of 37 contents of Managing home resource and Consumer life subarea, boys showed their interests on 'environmental problems', 'environmental conservation', 'environmental pollution', 'management of time and work', 'knowledge', 'management of their abilities'. And girls were more interested in 'environmental conservation', 'environmental pollution', 'environmental problems', 'adolescents life', and 'management of time and work'. 3. Of 49 contents on Dietary life, boys were more interested in 'puberty and the development', 'importance of nutriment', 'nutrition and health' and 'smoking and the health'. However, girls were more interested in 'smoking and health', 'puberty and the development', 'the importance of nutriment', 'nutrition and health', 'a realistic plan to reduce the food-based environmental pollution'. 4. Of 40 contents on Clothing life subarea, while boys were interested in 'the suitable cloths on oneself', 'clothing design', 'regulation of temparature', physical protection' 'merchandising for ready-made clothing'. On the other hand, girls were mostly interested in 'the suitable cloths on oneself', and next 'the clothing design', 'merchandising for ready-made clothes','physical protection', and 'the appropriate posture and physical adornment'. 5. Of 18 contents on Residence life subarea, teachers emphasized the importance of ventilation for adjusting the room environment and students were more interested in the effective use of the residing space. In general, those middle school students in Cheolabukdo showed the biggest interest on 'Clothing life', 'Residence life' the second, 'Eating life' the third, 'Human development and Family relationship' the fourth, and Management of family resource and Consuming life' was their fifth interest. Such result was consistent with Ⅱ-Rok Park's previous research(1997). Since the participants for this study were sampled form 9 schools located in CheolaBukDo, it is not suitable to apply the results nationwide. The restricted sampling must be considered and further studies are needed to make comparisons among areas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.921-935
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• 2016

This research analyzed the manual performance of firefighting protective gloves on global markets in order to suggest an evaluation method for firefighting protective gloves wearing comfort. We collected 13 types of firefighting gloves from domestic and international markets (7 types from Korea, 3 types form Europe, 2 types from the U.S and 1 type from Japan). We set the Don-Doff test as a basal requirement for moving toward to further manual performance tests that consist of: ASTM dexterity test, Minnesota dexterity test, Bennett hand tool test and ASTM torque test. All gloves were evaluated in dry and wet conditions, we included eight current male firefighters ($43.4{\pm}7.0yr$ in age, $173.1{\pm}4.4cm$ in height, $79.9{\pm}9.2kg$ in body mass) for the tests. Four gloves (1 Korea, 1 U.S, 1 Germany, and 1 Japan) out of thirteen firefighting gloves passed the Don-Doff test and had great subject preferences. There was no significant difference between dry and wet conditions on the ASTM dexterity test, Minnesota dexterity test, Bennett hand tool test and ASTM torque test. However, Japanese gloves had the greatest score and showed 3-4 times faster completion time on the ASTM dexterity test (p<.05), 1.2-1.5 times faster on the Minnesota dexterity test (p<.05), as fast as the bare hand on Bennett hand tool test (p<.05), and greater performance on the ASTM torque test compared to bare hand. In conclusion, Don-Doff test in wet conditions should be the first step for a mobility evaluation of domestic firefighting protective gloves; subsequently, a comprehensive test assorting ASTM, Minnesota, and Bennett test should be developed as a second step. The current ASTM torque test can be adopted as a third step. This three-step-method for evaluating firefighting protective glove mobility can be expected to expand into surveys of other safety gloves in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.91-104
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the differences of clothing microclimates and the subjective sensations according to age, gender and clothing weight for $19^{\circ}C$ air temperature. This study was done to gain fundamental data related to saving heating energy and to improve health through wearing underwear (long johns) in lower indoor temperatures. The subjects were divided into four groups (6 young males, 5 young females, 6 old males, 6 old females), and our experiment consisted of three conditions; the first condition was wearing long underwear in $19^{\circ}C$ air (19CUW condition); the second condition was without wearing long underwear in $19^{\circ}C$ air (19C condition); and the third condition was without wearing underwear in $24^{\circ}C$ air (24C condition). The experiment showed that the clothing microclimate temperature and humidity was the lowest in the 19C condition and the highest in the 24C condition irrespective of age and gender. The clothing microclimate in the 19CUW condition was not significantly distinguishable from the other conditions. Clothing microclimate temperature and humidity when the subjects responded thermal comfort was $28\~34^{\circ}C$ and $15\~40\%$RH without any significant difference according to age and gender. For the thermal sensation, the 24C condition was regarded as the warmest environment by the four groups, and the next preference was the 19CUW condition (p<0.001). Young females and old males showed a tendency to feel colder than young males and old females. For the thermal sensation of hands and feet, the young groups felt the warmest in the 24C condition and the coolest in the 19 C condition (p<0.001). However, old males felt neutral for the foot thermal sensation without any significant difference between the three conditions. Old females felt neutral for both the hands and feet thermal sensations without any significant difference between the three conditions. Thermal preference was the highest in the 24C condition for the 4 groups. In the 19CUW condition, for the thermal preference, most young males and females responded 'No change'; on the other hand, mea of the old responded 'Warmer'(p<0.001). It was the 24C condition that the 4 subject groups felt the most thermally comfortable. In the 19CUW condition, over $80\%$ of responses of each group expressed satisfaction and in the 19C condition, over $80\%$ of responses of each group, except young females, expressed satisfaction. In conclusion, in view of the clothing microclimate and subjective sensations, the 24C condition was the condition that gave subjects the least cold stress and the best subjective preference. However, the 19C condition and the 19CUW condition was not such a cold stress as to give healthy subjects a thermal burden.