• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.37-47
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• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.25-44
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• 2008

Geisha's gorgeous kimonos and grotesque make-up was the object of envy to Japanese women. There is a line in the movie like "Kimonos to the Geisha is the same as colors to the painter." Likewise, splendid patterns and colorful kimonos were an indispensible method or symbol for showing their artistic accomplishments. The purpose of this study is to investigate concept and origin of Geisha and their dress and decoration, analyze the dress of the people which appear in the movie, , arrange the expression of Geisha's dress as a movie costume, compare the difference of the dress by the career of Geisha and look back the disappearing aesthetic sense of Geisha. First, since Geisha appeared for the first time in Kyoto in 1751, it has become the world-wide representative of Japanese woman's images so that its existence oneself has become the tradition. Second, Geisha created fashion of various clothes, adornments, and hair styles as a creator of the popularity. Third, the strict regulation without exception is applied in Geisha's clothing, make-up, and motion tuned Samisen, Japanese traditional strings, and there is some difference in their hair style and dress by age of Maiko. Fourth, it is famous for unique make-up that Geisha makes up their faces, necks, and shoulders white, newly paints eyes, nose, lip line like drawing a picture in a pure white paper. Geishas put a little make-up as they have a higher position. Fifth, a heroin, Chiyo, shows clothing as a maid, an apprentice Geisha-Maiko- and a formal Geisha according to time flow. The length of kimono, textures, and hair decorations are longer, more splendid, and are more various as time goes. On the other hand, her make-up is lighter.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.457-467
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• 2006

The following research compares two mostly-used apparel systems that are used in colleges of Korea, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing advantages and disadvantages of their Dart, Tuck and Pleats-related functions in pattern construction process. The results are the following: First, regarding transformation methods, Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while PAD system was able to use both pivot and slash method. As for movement, distribution, synthesis, folding, producing additional Dart function, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart can be produced only in PAD system, while none of curvy shaped Dart can be produced in both systems. Second, as for pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes and need for correction. Third, when constructing according to the type of Tuck, we could distribute multiple Darts at a time with PAD system, while with Gerber system, distribution into multiple Darts at a time was impossible at all. Fourth, when constructing according to the contour of Pleats, Gerber system made it possible to make construction of multiple lines and box/inverted Pleats with just one order, but PAD system required repetitive tasks, which remains room for enhancement in regard to such inefficiency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.609-624
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to give the guideline to the pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of tailored collar with the location and angle of gorge line and laying measurement of the tailored collar while designing the tailored collar. The results of this study are as follows : Images of the sample at the case of 1cm of laying measurement looks 'urban', 'light', 'sharp', 'young', 'fashionable' and 'narrow' than that at the case of 7cm. When the laying measurement increases, the image of the sample looks more 'classical' and 'boorish'. The image of the sample 'light', 'sensuous' and 'young' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. Second, at the case of sample whose laying measurements of the collar was 5cm, it was shown that the low location of gorge line made the image of the sample 'soft' and 'short'. On the other hand the image of the sample looked 'hard', 'keen' and 'long' by the high location of gorge line. Third, at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 7cm, low location of gorge line made the image of the sample look short. However, normal location of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'fashionable'. The images of the samples of which laying measurements of the collar were 3cm, 5cm and 7cm, respectively, had changed with the angle of gorge line. First, the high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample 'rigid' and 'keen' at the case of sample of which laying measurements of the collar was 3cm. The high angle of gorge line made the image of the sample looked 'boorish' and 'singular'.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.42-50
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to find differences in evaluation criteria and product information based on jeans products consumers. The participants of this study were women age of 19 to 30 years. This study was implemented by descriptive survey method using questionnaires. A total 182 questionnaires were analyzed in this study. The subjects were grouped by the evaluation criteria of purchasing jeans through an online shopping. Finding of the study showed that, Group 1 was high involvement group. They conscious of both style feature and practicability of jeans when they bought jeans. Group 2 was low involvement group. They are not conscious of those features. The important factors were different by groups. The most important factors of purchasing jeans for Group 1 were fashion trend and practicality. Price was the most important factor for Group 2. They bought jeans at extremely low or high price. On the other hand, Group 1 bought jeans of diverse prices range. The popular shopping sites were different between two groups. The department store was the most important place purchasing jeans for both groups. The second important place was specialty stores for Group 1, and online shopping for Group 2. The usefulness of product informations were also examined when they evaluated the jeans at online shopping. The most useful product informations were leg cut style and rise length. Fit information was very important for Group 1. Group 1 considered that the function of zoomming the picture image was important. The material characteristic and name of brand were also useful than Group 2. But the size and care instruction were not highly useful.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.111-123
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to prepare basic data necessary to develop uniform design by examining the uniforms of Korean and Chinese airline crew. Advanced research, various literature materials related to uniform, as well as a survey on the images portrayed by the different uniforms of the airlines were used as research method, and this was used to investigate its functions and components. The survey was conducted in Incheon International Airport and Gwangju airport from September 1st to 30th of 2013, - targeting 350 people consisting of Koreans, Chinese, and other nationalities who have the experience of using Korean and Chinese aircraft. The research findings are summarized as follows. First, the images of the uniforms were classified into 5 elements: attractiveness, activity, noticeability, femininity, and traditionality. The analysis showed that Korean uniforms, except for Jin Air, received high marks overall, while the Chinese uniforms received lower marks compared to their Korean counterparts. Second, the results were analyzed based on the nationality of the respondents. In regards to Korean airline crews, attractiveness, activity, noticeability, femininity, and traditionality showed statistical significance with Korean respondents, while the significance was seen in attractiveness, activity, femininity, and traditionality for the Chinese respondents. Femininity was the only feature with any significance for the third nation respondents. On the other hand, with regard to Chinese airline crew's uniform, Korean respondents showed statistical significance in the following features: attractiveness and traditionality, while the Chinese and the third nation respondents did not show any statistical significance in any of the elements.