• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.231-245
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• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.271-278
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• 2024

The human skin is an organ that protects the body from physical and chemical factors. The skin is the largest and most massive of the body's organs and is composed of the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Constant UV exposure to the skin can cause DNA damage, oxidation of proteins, and contribute to adult diseases. Nypa fruticans Wurmb (NF), rich in phytochemicals (polyphenols and flavonoids), has been traditionally used for treating respiratory and other diseases. This study investigated the effects of NF ethyl acetate fraction (ENF) on DNA damage healing and inhibition of wrinkle-related factors in UVB-stimulated Hs68 cells. Westernblotting was used to assess the expression of DNA damage-related proteins and wrinkle-related protein factors. In addition, the wound recovery capability of ENF was confirmed through wound-healing experiments. ENF significantly suppressed the expression of DNA damage-related proteins Phosphorylated H2AX (γ-H2AX), checkpoint kinase 2 (Chk2), protein53 (p53), and Phosphorylated protein53 (p-p53). Furthermore, ENF inhibited the expression of wrinkle-related proteins matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3), and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9). High concentrations of ENF also enhanced wound healing in Hs68 cells. ENF is thought to have the potential to heal DNA damage by significantly suppressing the expression of γ-H2AX, Chk2, p53, and p-p53, as well as to inhibit wrinkle formation by suppressing the expression of MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9. These results suggest that ENF can be used as a natural resource to suppress skin damage caused by UVB by regulating the γ-H2AX, Chk2, p53, and MMP pathways in Hs68 cells induced by UVB.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.251-262
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• 2007

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Aspalathus linearis extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis were in the order: 50 % ethanol extract ($11.50\;{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction ($8.47\;{\mu}g/mL$) < ethylacetate fraction ($4.76\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Aspalathus linearis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were ethylacetate fraction ($OSC_{50},\;4.58\;{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction ($2.20\;{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % ethanol extract ($1.09\;{\mu}g/mL$). 50 % Ethanol extract showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Aspalathus linearis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly 50 % ethanol extract exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 272.00 min at $50\;{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Aspalathus linearis extracts, showed 3 bands in TLC and 3 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm). Three components were identified as luteolin (composition ratio, 18.24 %), quercetin (58.79), and kaempferol (22.97). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Aspalathus linearis extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 9 peaks, which were identified as isoorientin (composition ratio, 14.71 %), orientin (28.84 %), vitexin (5.63 %), rutin and isovitexin (12.73 %), hyperoside (9.24 %), isoquercitrin (5.40 %), luteolin (1.48 %), quercetin (17.61 %) and kaempferol (4.59 %) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase ($IC_{50},\;9.08\;{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Aspalathus linearis extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.421-432
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• 2016

In order to find new functional materials for the cosmetics application, we investigated anti-inflammatory and whitening effects of the Protaetia brevitarsis seulensis (P. brevitarsis) extracts, which were prepared by the various oriental conversion methods, as follows; fresh, roasted one time, roasted two times, roasted three times, and steamed. 2,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities of the various solvent extracts (80% ethanol, 50% ethanol, ethyl acetate, hexane) of P. brevitarsis extracts were 85.5, 22.4, 37.0 and 19.4% respectively. The 80% ethanol extract with the highest antioxidant activity was used for all experiments. In case of antioxidant activity test of the extracts, all the extracts showed the activities in concentration dependent manner regardless of the sample preparation methods. Superoxide dismutase-like (SOD-like) activities of the extracts roasted three times and steamed were 62.9 and 55.9%, respectively in $500{\mu}g/mL$. Effects of extracts on the inflammation of RAW 264.7 cell induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) showed decreasing tendency of $NO{\cdot}$ and prostaglandin $E_2$ ($PGE_2$) production; PBS fresh (38.0%), PBS roasted one time (41.0%), PBS roasted two times (69.8%), PBS roasted three times (70.1%), PBS steamed (78.5%). Intracellular tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis inhibitory activities of the extracts were decreased in a concentration dependent manner. However, the fresh P. brevitarsis extracts without the oriental conversion method showed 90.7% decrease compared to the control group treated with ${\alpha}$-MSH alone at $500{\mu}g/mL$. Taken together, these results suggest the oriental conversion method can be applied in development of cosmetic materials in order to improve anti-inflammatory and whitening effects of the cosmetics products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.277-287
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• 2012

To develop new therapeutic materials to prevent hair loss and enhance hair growth, we developed a medicinal herbal complex extract (MHCE) using 23 herbs traditionally used in oriental medicine. Medicinal Herbal complex extract was consist of Angelica gigas Nakai, Psoralea corylifolia Linne, Biota orientalis Endlicher, and Eclipta prostrata Linne, Rehmannia glutinosa Liboschitz var. purpurea Makino, Ligustrum lucidum Aiton, Polygonum multiflorum Thunberg, and Sesamum indicum Linne, Sophora angustifolia Sieboldet Zuccarini, Angelica dahurica Benthamet Hooker, and Leonurus sibiricus Linne, Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge, Prunus persica Batsch, Commiphora molmol Engler, Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, Boswellia carterii Birdwood, Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer, Cnidium officinale Makino, Albizia julibrissin Durazzini, and Corydalis ternata Nakai that have traditionally been used for treating hair loss, preventing gray hair, anti-inflammation, and blood circulation in oriental medicine. In addition, we examined the hair growth effect of MHCE in vitro and in vivo. In vitro, we evaluated the effects of MHCE on cultured HFDPC, HaCaT cells, and murine embryonal fibroblasts (NIH3T3 cells). Also, we evaluated the ability of MHCE to prevent gray hair on murine melanoma cells (B16F1 cells). The hair growth-promoting effect of MHCE in vitro was also observed in vivo using C57BL/6 mice. Our results showed that MHCE significantly increased the proliferation of HFDPC (175 % proliferation at $50{\mu}g/mL$), HaCaT cells (133 % proliferation at $20{\mu}g/mL$), and NIH3T3 cells (120 % proliferation at $50{\mu}g/mL$). MHCE also showed consistent melanogenesis in B16F1 cells (154 % melanin synthesis at $50{\mu}g/mL$). Moreover, MHCE showed potential for hair growth stimulation in C57BL/6 mice experiments (98 % hair growth area on 4 weeks). These results indicate that MHCE may be a good candidate for promotion of hair growth.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.389-397
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• 2019

Lysosomes are cellular organelles involved in energy metabolism and intracellular digestion in eukaryotic cells, including protease, nuclease, glycosidase, lipase, and phosphatase. Our previous studies have confirmed that egg white lysosomes had melanin decolorization and reduction activity. However, there have been few studies on skin barrier and skin regeneration as well as inhibition of melanin production by egg white lysosomes on B16F10 melanocyte cell line. In this study, we attempted to identify the effect of lysosome-related organelle extract (LOE) extracted from egg white on the melanin content change and skin barrier enhancement in cells. First, cytotoxicity evaluation was performed on B16F10 melanocyte cell line to confirm the whitening efficacy of LOE. Cytotoxicity by LOE was not observed at 20 mg/mL concentration, but cytotoxicity was observed at 40 mg/mL, and the maximum concentration value was set to 20 mg/mL in all subsequent experiments. LOE samples of 5, 10, 20 mg/mL inhibited melanin production by 61.5 ± 4.0%, 61.4 ± 7.3%, 58.3 ± 8.3%, respectivly, compared to α-MSH, a negative control in melanin contents assay. MITF mRNA expression was reduced by about 39.7 ± 3.2% compared to the α-MSH treatment group. TEER assay using HaCaT showed that LOE increased TEER resistance in a dose-dependent manner, indicating that LOE is involved in strengthening the skin barrier. LOE also increased the TEER resistance under TNF-α treatment. Skin barrier was normally restored by LOE even under the condition of inflammation. LOE had a positive effect on cell division and cell migration promotion, confirmed by the observing the effect of promoting cell migration by LOE through cell migration assay. Taken together, we expect that LOE can be developed as a cosmetic material to enhance has effects on skin regeneration and skin barrier strengthening as well as whitening function if enzyme stabilization and formulation technology are combined.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.313-320
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• 2014

In this study, the antimicrobial activity of niaouli leaf extracts was evaluated against skin flora. The skin flora used for experiments were three gram-positive bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis), Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), and two gram-negative, Escherichia coli (E. coli), Pseudomonas aeruginosa( P. aeruginosa), and the yeast, Plasmodium ovale (P. ovale). The bioassay applied for determining the antimicrobial effects of niouli leaf extracts or fraction included the disc diffusion assay and broth dilution assay. Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values of 50% ethanol extract on B. subtilis, S. aureus, P. acnes, E. coli and P. aeruginosa were 0.25%, 0.50%, 1.00%, 0.13% and 0.25% respectively and the MIC values of water fraction were 0.25%, 0.25%, 4,00%, 0.25% and 0.25%. P. ovale did not show antimicrobial activities. The MIC values of methyl paraben used as positive control indicated 0.25%, 0.25%, 0.25%, 0.13% and 0.50%. Also, Minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) values of 50% ethanol extract were 2.00%, 2.00%, 1.00%, 0.50% and 2.00% individually and the MBC values of water fraction were 0.50%, 0.25%, 4.00%, 0.50% and 1.00%. The MBC values of methyl paraben indicated 1.00%, 0.500%, 0.50%, 0.50% and 1.00%. These results showed that water fraction was as good as methyl paraben except for P. acnes. The 50% ethanol extract also showed activity similar with it. Thus, it is concluded that the 50% ethanol extract/fraction of niaouli could be applicable to cosmetics as a natural preservatives effective in antimicrobial activity against skin flora.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.101-118
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• 2008

This paper reviews the present situation of Triticale cultivation and examines the potentiality of contribution to livestock as well as poultry sector in Bangladesh Agriculture. Triticale is a human-made cross between rye and durum wheat that has the ability to produce quality green fodder, and then re-grow after first and second cutting to produce grain. In Bangladesh, it is a non-traditional cereal that grows well during the cool and dry Rabi season (November-March) when fodder and feed scarcity is a major limiting factor for ruminant livestock. In Bangladesh Triticale was started to grow in the late Ninety's. The scientists of Bangladesh Agricultural Research Institute (BARI) were first introduced triticale in Bangladesh. Still now the situation of Triticale is grown as fooder and feed in Bangladesh within the scientists under trial. High quality grass fodder was obtained by cutting green triticale plants twice, at 35 and 50 days after seeding, while later the ratooning tillers produced grain to a yield of 1.1-2.4 t/ha of grain for poultry feed or human food. Triticale straw was twice as nutritious as rice or wheat straw and its grain contained more protein than other cereals. Researchers and farmers have also successfully made triticale hay and silage from a mixture of triticale green cuttings, rice straw and molasses. A feeding trial at Bangladesh Livestock Research Institute(BLRI), Savar station showed a large(46%) increase in cow live weight gain and a 36% increase in milk yield (but no change in milk quality or dry matter intake) in cows fed triticale silage compared with those fed rice straw over a period of nine weeks. In another feeding trial, it was found that triticale grain was a good replacement for wheat in the feed blend for chickens in Bangladesh. So it will be a good chance to alive our livestock as well as poultry sector if triticale enters to our existing cropping system as fodder cum grain. The challenge in Bangladesh is to identify fodder technologies that match existing small-scale farmer cropping patterns without needing major inputs or increasing risks. Preliminary field experiments revealed that triticale is a crop with good potential to produce quality fodder and grain for small scale farmers in Bangladesh.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

in the cosmetics and medical supply field as a antioxidant material. The stable nano particle emulsion of skin toner type containing VEA was prepared. To evaluate the skin permeation, experiments on VEA permeation to the skin of the ICR outbred albino mice (12 weeks, about 50 g, female) and on differences of solubility as a function of receptor formulations was performed. The analysis of nano-emulsions containing VEA 0.07 % showed that the higher ethanol contents the larger emulsions were formed, while the higher surfactant contents the size became smaller.In this study, vitamin E acetate (VEA, tocopheryl acetate), a lipid-soluble vitamin which is widely used A certain contents of ethanol in receptor phase increased VEA solubility on the nano-emulsion. When the ethanol contents were 10.0 % and 20.0 %, the VEA solubility was higher than 5.0 % and 40.0 %, respectively. The type of surfactant in receptor solution influenced to VEA solubility. The comparison between three kind surfactants whose chemical structures and HLB values are different, showed that solubility of VEA was increased as order of sorbitan sesquioleate (Arlacel 83; HLB 3.7) > POE (10) hydrogenated castor oil (HCO-10; HLB 6.5) > sorbitan monostearate (Arlacel 60; HLB 4.7). VEA solubility was also shown to be different according to the type of antioxidant. In early time, the solubility of the sample including ascorbic acid was similar to those of other samples including other types of antioxidants. However, the solubility of the sample including ascorbic acid was 2 times higher than others after 24 h. Franz diffusion cell experiment using mouse skin was performed with four nano-emulsion samples which have different VEA contents. The emulsion of 10 wt% ethanol was shown to be the most permeable at the amount of 128.8 ${\mu}g/cm^2$. When the result of 10 % ethanol content was compared with initial input of 220.057 ${\mu}g/cm^2$, the permeated amount was 58.53 % and the permeated amount at 10 % ethanol was higher 45.0 % and 15.0 % than the other results which ethanol contents were 1.0 and 20.0 wt%, respectively. Emulsion particle size used 0.5 % surfactant (HCO-60) was 26.0 nm that is one twentieth time smaller than the size of 0.007 % surfactant (HCO-60) at the same ethanol content. Transepidermal permeation of VEA was 54.848 ${\mu}g/cm^2$ which is smaller than that of particlesize 590.7 nm. Skin permeation of nano-emulsion containing VEA and difference of VEA solubility as a function of receptor phase formulation were determined from the results. Using these results, optimal conditions of transepidermal permeation with VEA were considered to be set up.