• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.130-144
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to apply iconology to discover the symbolic system of imaginary animals focused on four representative auspicious animals in Korean folk paintings. Study methods included literature review of folk paintings, iconological analytics books, and articles. A total of 16 folk paintings of four auspicious animals in the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed using Panofsky's iconology. The four auspicious animals were Yong(dragon), Bonghwang(the eastern version of the phoenix), Shingoo (divine turtle), and Kirin(one-horned combination of a dragon and horse). According to iconological analysis, Yong is a typical symbol of royal authority, a deity of water as an object of respect with a remarkable talent of transformation, and in iconographical interpretation, represents reverence for transcendent power. Bonhwang is the symbol of a king, sun worship, the emblem of nobility and integrity, and in iconographical interpretation, the psychic bing in the sky. Shingoo is fortune prophecy, longevity and immortality, an envoy of deity, and according to iconographical interpretation, the organic view of the world. Kirin is a divine benign creature, a symbol of talent and honor, mediator between sky and earth, and in iconographical interpretation, an expression of Confucian ideology. This study produced three results. First, the four auspicious animals projected the human hope to overcome human limitations through divine creatures with mythical abilities. Second, they reflected everyday common hopes and values of pursuing fortunes and happiness. Third, the four auspicious animals' iconology was not independent of each other; it seemed to be common to and combined with each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.99-114
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• 2017

The uniqueness of Bali is inseparable from its culture and religion. Embedded in the cultural environment, textiles become one of the most important aspects in Balinese life as it is used as a medium in sacred ceremonies. Balinese textiles are made and used under special conditions according to Hindu teaching. This paper aims to observe the aesthetics of Balinese sacred cloths that are seen in their techniques, colors, and patterns. Quantitative research included in this study is based on 261 images taken from literature review and Museums. Field research was done in eastern part of Bali. This paper has divided the era between ancient and modern times. The ancient era before the 20th century used textiles for religious purposes. Modern era started from the colonialization period by the Dutch in Bali during 1910-1942 added economic values to the textiles. The independence of Indonesia in 1945 created Balinese textiles as a unifying value as one of the identity of Indonesia. The techniques are classified as Weft Ikat, Double Ikat, weave with Supplementary Weft, and Prada. The colors of the ancient era are 'fixed' with the restriction of the colors red, black, and white. The colors of modern era are 'festive' with combination of yellow, green, blue, and purple. The characteristics of patterns are geometric, natural, human, and animal groups. Field research in this paper observes Klungkung Village that produces Endek and Songket cloths. The aesthetics of Endek cloth is 'royal statement' and Songket cloth is a 'cultural heritage.' Nusa Penida Island produces Cepuk cloths and is a 'protective guardian.' Satria sub-district produces Prada cloths and appears to be an 'opulence charm.' Lastly, Tenganan Village produces Geringsing cloth which possesses a 'legendary legacy.' To sum up, Balinese sacred cloth essence is a balance of tradition and modern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.123-133
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• 1981

If we are to define that the traditional costume is a comprehensive expression of the culture, thoughts, and arts of a country, it is needless to say that the traditional costume would have always reflected the social and cultural aspects of the times. In order words, the cultural contemplation of a certain people at some point the history is only possible when we observe the distintive features of the costume worn by the people of respective times. Although the Korean people had the native costume of its own from the times of the Ancient Choson to the Three Kingdoms of Koguryo, Paekche, and Silla, the Chinese influence on Korean traditional costume became somewhat pronounced ever since the Silla strenghtened the political ties with the T'ang dynasty in China, and it came to a climax when the dual structure in Korean native costume, being compounded with the Chinese touch, continued to be prevailed from the era of the Unified Silla to the Koryo and throughout the succeeding Yi dynasty, thereby copying the typical aspects of Chinese pattern in clothing and dresses worn by the ruling classes, namely the goverment officials including the Kings. Therefore, it is our aim to study the pattern of Chinese influence on our traditional costume, as well as social and cultural aspects by way of contrasting and comparing our official outfit system, which had been developing in dualism since the era of the Unified Silla, with that of China, and to trace in part the Korean traditional costume. In comparing our traditional official outfit system with that of China, we have basically concentrated on the comparison of the official outfit systems during the periods of the Three Kingdoms, the Koryo, and The Yi dynasty with that of corresponding era of Chinese history, namely the dynasties of T'ang, Sung, and Ming, and followed the documentary records for the comparison. Koreans had fallen into the practice of worshipping the powerful in China and begun to adopt the culture and institutions of the T'ang dynasty since the founding of the Unified Silla. From this time forth, Korean people started to wear the clothes in Chinese style. The style of clothing during the period of the Koryo Kingdom was deeply influenced by that of the T'ang and Sung dynasties in China, and it was also under the influenced of the Yuan dynasty(dynasty established by the Mongols) at one time, because of the Koryo's subordinative position to the Yuan. At the close of the Koryo dynasty, the King Kongmin ordered the stoppage on the use of 'Ji-Joung', the name of an era for the Yuan dynasty, in May of the eighteenth year of his rule in order to have the royal authority recognized by a newly rising power dominating the Chinese continent, the Mind. Kind Kongmin presented a memorial, repaying a kindness to the Emperor T'aejo of the Ming dynasty in celebration of his enthronement and requested that the emperor choose an official outfit, thereby the Chinese influence being converted to that of the Ming. As a matter of course, the Chinese influence deepened all the more during the era of the Yi dynasty coupled with the forces of the toadyic ideology of worshipping the China, dominant current of the times, and the entire costume, from the imperial crown and robe to the official outfit system of government officials, such as official uniforms, ordinary clothes, sacrificial robes, and court dresses followed the Chinese style in their design. Koreans did not have the opportunity of developing the official outfit system on its own and they just wore the official outfit designated on separate occasions by the emperors of China, whenever the changes in dynasty occurred in the continent. Especially, the Chinese influence had greatly affected in leading our consciousness on the traditional costume to the consciousness of the class and authority. Judging from the results, Koreans had been attaching weight to the formulation of the traditional outfit system for the ruling classes in all respective times of the history and the formulation of the system was nothing more than the simple following of the Chinese system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.29-43
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• 1991

Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

• Archives of design research
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.317-326
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• 1999

The Korean traditional color passed down over countless generations has surpassed both surpassed both time and space and continue today to breathe life into its people's everyday. In order to clarify the characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red, we investigate the names of them and measured the color tones of textile remains in Chosun era. The characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red have been surveyed by means of the examination of color names in many famous literatures in Chosun era. Korean terms for color tones were characterized by enormous variety of epithes crowned on them. The color names mentioned contain many unaccountable epithes which were characterized also deep colors and light colors were dominant in it. As a means of enhancing possibilities within limited colors, the commoners increased the names for varying tones of blue color group(32kinds) and red color group(40kinds). These "blue(indigo dyeing)' and 'red(safflower dyeing)' in Chosun era were shown very high frequency in use and the costume colors in Royal Court. With combination of these various blue and red colors they represented a thought of color based on Yinyang Theory and created a polished aesthetic taste. The color samples of textile remains in museum were measured and designated by Munsell color system and the ISCC-NBS color designation system. THe appeared rates were derived on Chosun era and features of colors using on the period were discussed. We aim to present specific recipes in indigo dyeing and safflower dyeing for using our apparel product and folk art.