• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권3호
• /
• pp.105-119
• /
• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권8호
• /
• pp.1288-1300
• /
• 2006

Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.150-157
• /
• 2009

In the 1970's the Interior Design Associations was established and the activity of youth designers who werecalled the "first generation of Korean interior designers" were created. This study is aimed to analyze characteristics and trends of commercial interior design in the 1970's. The design methods include the documentary research and the actual proof research conducted. The frames of analysis were made by the background theories about Korean interior design, and the annual case studies were analyzed and estimated according to the design types. The design types were analyzed by the geometrical simplicity research, the romantic emotional expression, the Korean identity expression, the machine technical asthetic expression and the eclectic style with western classics. In the early 1970's, the abstract, brief, and simple expression were presented most frequently by the geometrical form and the repetition of the pattern. From the mid-1970's the romantic and emotional atmosphere of the youth culture that was popular at that time were expressed as vernacular design by the rough finishing of the natural materials such as plaster, brick, and wood floorings etc. The space such as a Korean food restaurant relates to the Korean traditional culture aims to be different through the expression by the Korean traditional patterns, furniture, and materials. In the late 1970's the metals and glass were used for the expression of the machine aesthetic form but was not popular because of the rare application. The type that revived the past western traditional form was presented by using the arch, dome, and the curved and luxurious moldings.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제15권1호
• /
• pp.185-204
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to take into consideration the formative and aesthetic characteristics of wedding dresses that existed during the periods of Neo-Classicism and Romanticism which appeared as a reaction toward Neo-Classicism. The method of the research was mainly focused on precedent research data and general references. Furthermore the data on wedding dresses was mainly collected from British, French, and American library and museum web sites. The result of the research is the following. The Neo-Classicism art, which appeared along with the enlightenment in the beginning of the 19th century, pursues beauty based on associations and imitations of ancient Greek and Roman arts. In addition to aforementioned pursuits, the Neo-Classicism art also pursued universal beauty and social usefulness through law and order. This aesthetic value was also applied to the wedding dresses, so classical beauty, natural beauty and universal beauty were expressed as follows: corsets of the previous era were removed from general clothing and Empire style that imitated natural Greek style became predominant. Also, muslin replaced high quality clothes which were used as the main materials of the dressing during the previous era. Empire style's wedding dress became popular and simple colors and styles of the wedding dress expressed the beauty of the human body and emphasized civility at the same time. Romanticism art and costumes opposed rationalism and pursued sentimentalism. Moreover, it pursued diversity, exotic tastes and accepted diverse reactionism unlike Neo-Classicism's simplification and standardization. These aesthetic characteristic were applied to the wedding dress of this period; wedding dress of romanticism pursued feminine and elegant beauty with "X" silhouettes and various decorations, like general costumes. And they were decorated with a variety of excessive accessories, details and trimmings to express romantic sentimentalism. Exotic tastes which included Chinese, Egyptian, Indian influence and other diverse tastes were expressed through hair style, accessories and patterns of shawl. However, the white color in the wedding dress revealed purity and sanctity which cannot be found from general costumes regardless of whether the dress expressed Neo-classicism or Romanticism. As a formal dress worn during wedding ceremonies, the wedding dresses of the royalty revealed dignity and authority and significantly influenced later wedding dress designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.29-47
• /
• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.155-168
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• 철학연구
• /
• 제130권
• /
• pp.337-361
• /
• 2014

이 논문의 목적은 듀이의 미적 경험을 통해 오늘날의 사랑 관념을 재구성해 보려는 데 있다. 사랑을 과학화하거나 이상화하는 근래의 사랑담론은 사랑의 불가능성에 대한 사회학자들의 진단을 경험적으로 입증한다. 전자는 생물학과 생리학에 토대를 두고, 사랑을 두뇌의 화학적 작용으로 다룬다. 후자는 미디어가 만들어낸 가상을 사랑의 원형으로 간주하고, 현실의 사랑을 대체하려고 한다. 이와 같이 주체가 대상을 파악하거나 이해하거나 갈망하는 것으로 사랑을 간주하는 것은 협소한 경험 개념에 기초를 둔다. 그것은 경험을 구체적인 상황에 공동으로 참여함으로써 겪고 행하는 문제가 아니라, 인식하고 이해하는 문제로 보는 것이다. 그러한 경험 개념 속에서는 각각의 사랑 경험이 갖는 고유성과 질성이 간과된다. 각각의 사랑 관계의 고유성과 질성이 간과될 때, 사랑은 자본주의의 논리 위에서 작동하는 앞선 두 양식에 포섭될 수밖에 없다. 그러므로 이 논문은 듀이의 미적 경험에 주목하면서, 사랑 경험에 대한 새로운 이해를 모색해 보려고한다. 필자는 사랑이 정서적 소통에 기초한 미적 경험과 유사한 방식으로 경험될 때, 사랑의 가능성을 전망할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 그러한 경험이 우리 삶의 실제적 변화와 성장의 동력이 된다고 본다. 나아가 이러한 소통적 경험은 사적영역에 한정되지 않으며, 공동체의 변화도 이끌 수 있다고 제안한다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.792-804
• /
• 2004

Sportism is continuously expressed in every season in a different theme and established as a Mega-Trend of the early 21 th century fashion. This study was conducted to research the social and cultural sources of the sportism expressed in the early 21th century fashion. This study focused on hybrid as one of the post-modem phenomena. By analysing social and cultural sources of the sportism, three aspects were found; first, many different fashion trends are coincides in post-modem society, which is possible and accelerated by hybrid each other. Second, the complicated and competitive society urge the people to review the past and the originality. Third, youth-oriented and individualistic lifestyle was brought by the development of the technology and economic surplus. Hybrid of the TPO was analysed which made the sportism mega-trend. 'Formal wear was mixed with casual wear, casual wear with active sportswear, hi-fashion with street fashion, and hi-fashion influenced formal and casual wear again'. The sportism prevalent in 21th century fashion can be explained by this system of hybrid. Results of the analysis in this study can be categorized into four aesthetic values based on hybrid of the styles, which are glamorous sportism, romantic sportism, minimal sportism, and heritage sportism.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권9호
• /
• pp.106-119
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to examine American students' perceptions of contemporary fashion design that incorporates Korean traditional costume. The findings, which are based on a survey of American students' aesthetic response to the fashion designs, are as follows. First, the impressions of American students about the fashion designs were affected by two major factors, Tradition and Trend. The Tradition factor was related to the impressions traditional, formal, elegant, classic, romantic, gorgeous, and natural, but was correlated negatively to the impressions dynamic, modern, and casual. The Trend factor was related to the impressions chic, trendy, and clear but not dandy. Designs with elongated shape had a positive score for the Tradition factor and designs with curvy line had a positive score for the Trend factor. Second, American students gave visual priority to the aspects of shape such as garment type and silhouette when they evaluated the designs. Color was less important than the aspect of shape in their fashion image perception. Therefore, they categorized the designs by similarity of garment types, and then sub-categorized them by color. The meaning of Korean traditional motifs or details was not significant to American students. Third, American students showed the tendency that the more they evaluated the designs to be gorgeous or trendy, the more they liked the designs. Furthermore, they liked the designs which have a positive score for the Trend factor.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.39-53
• /
• 2008

Today is a 'high concept' era in which consumers make sensible consumption that shares a sensible bond with a brand. Therefore, it is important to analyze consumers' aesthetic awareness; namely, fashion feeling in the fashion industry. This study conducted research into a fashion design planning process according to a fashion feeling focusing on computer graphics suited to the 21st century digital trend. First, the study classified a fashion feeling with eight senses including elegance, classic, modern, mannish, sporty, avant-garde, ethnic, and romantic feelings. Second, the study made an image map, color map, material map, and style map with Adobe Photoshop CS3 by dividing a fashion planning process with a computer graphics program. Also, the study made a flat illustration with Adobe Illustrator CS3. Third, the study proposed the image map, color map, material map, style map, fashion illustration and flat illustration in the design planning process under the theme of the aforementioned eight fashion feelings.