• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2005

This ethnography is on the passage ritual clothes in Incheon province. This ethnography invatigates in two villages of people who has same family name -Family 'Cheung' (from Young-il) in Yeonsoo-dong and Family 'Lee'(from Cheun-joo) in dongyang-dong- in August to December 2003. The object of examination is 80's and 70's old women who have lived and had lived up to recent in two villages. (grand mother Sung, Cho, Cheung and yoon) The clothes of passage ritual are Baenaeoht is the first clothes of the newborn baby(swaddling), A wedding ceremony clothe is the clothing for the coming-of-age ceremony, Honryebouk is the clothing for wedding, Sangbouk in the clothing for mourning, shroud is the clothing for the dead, sacrificial robes. The result of ethnogrphy is the passage ritual clothes in Incheon Province similar with other Provinces in aspect of the name and the form and wearing of the clothes. there are remarkable differences in making method from making by oneself to purchase(swaddling$\cdot$shroud), westernize(clothes for wedding and mourning), simplification (sacrificial) between ritual for their parents and their husband and children.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.16-30
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• 2012

This study examines the types and features of formal ritual hats for Tibetan Buddhist priests. Findings of the study are as follows. The types of formal hats that Tibetan Buddhist priests wear during religious rites or rituals include: u rgyan pad zhwa, pan zhwa, tshogs zhwa, rigs inga, zhwa nag, zhwa dmar and dwags zhwa. The reason why such formal ritual hats as listed above were developed is because the region had an alpine climate, and also because they were the symbolism of Buddhism, the most reverent priest, and reincarnated Buddha thoughts. They were an essential part of the culture of dressing Buddhist statues and offering utensils. Formal ritual hats' shapes originate from lotus. They are colored in red, yellow, indigo, green, white or black, that reflect the nationality and aesthetics of Tibetans. They are mainly made of woolen or silk fabrics. They are usually decorated with gold, git bronze or jewels and the patterns of the sun and the moon, vajra or clouds.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.171-176
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• 2005

본 연구는 역사문화의 입장에서 중국 복식문화의 원류에 관해 연구한 것으로 무속과 예약문화가 그 형성에 영향을 미친것을 밝혔다. 중국복식문화는 고대 주술문화에서 중요한 역할을 했을 뿐 아니라 상당한 비중을 차지하였다. 중국 복식문화의 성숙기와 서주때의 중국 예약문화의 형성은 매우 밀접한 상관이 있다. 예약문화의 표현에서 계급성을 내용으로 하고 형 식 성을 특징으로 하는 체제에서 중요한 작용을 하였다 동시 에 복식문화 자체도 이 시 기 에 아주 풍요롭게 발전하여 중국 문화의 견고한 기초를 확립하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.1-9
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• 2011

This study aims to examine the costumes, which a shaman wears for the ritual of exorcism in the Honam region. The findings are based on a field survey of the exorcism ritual, which is performed by hereditary shamans and forms part of an annual event in the Honam region. Two main features of the shamans' costumes were observed. Firstly, the types of shamanic costume worn for gut reflected the general traditional costume but with some variations. White-colored costumes are largely found in the Honam region. Secondly, the types of costumes, which shamans wear in the Honam region. are also varied. The different types of shamanic costumes, regardless of Ga-sa, can be classified into Jang-sam, Jeon-bok, or Duru-magi, variations in the patterns of costumes, differences in the types of conical hat, and modifications in the dress code.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1330-1337
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• 2003

According to the way of expression and the ritual procedure, there is a difference in the costume between Jinoggigut in Seoul and Sitggimgut, hereditary dance in the southern part of Joella province. Even though they share the same story, which is to soothe the spirit of the deceased and to listen to the grudge of the remained, the two shaman rituals are slightly different in their costumes. And the characteristics of the costume in Seoul Jinoggigut, and Jindo Sitggimgut are as follows; First, both in Seoul Jinoggigut, a spiritual dance and Jindo Sitggimgut, a hereditary dance, the universal roles of shaman costume, which are generally shown in "gut", are found-build a sacred environment, prepare for the experience of the spiritual world, listen to the grudge of the deceased and wish for God's bless. Second, the shaman costume has a special role to express specific and complex symbols-representing God on one hand, symbolizing the dead on the other. Third, unique symbols are found in the costume of Mangjachoendogut with the formality of the ritual procedure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.45-63
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• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.269-284
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• 1995

This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to description of the mouring-rit-ual in the the Kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little differ-ence in the ceremonial procedure, this implies that the the Jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domesti-cation of burial costume(염습의) which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, ryemsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for 'sup(습)', sofyum(소렴), and 'daeryum(대렴)' in the mourning ceremorial procedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead's own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.98-112
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• 2010

This study is on the 18th-century man's clothing excavated from Mr. Kim(1683-1766)'s tomb in Cheongju, Chungbuk in 2003. There are more than 100 pieces of excavated costumes from the tomb of Won-taek Kim. The excavated costumes have the value of genuine materials. Among them, 36 garments in good condition were investigated. As a result, there are several kinds of the excavated coats with different sizes, depending on the type of coats-Simui(深衣), Danryeong(團領), Sagyusam(四揆衫), Daechang, jungchimak(中赤莫), and Sochangui. These different-size coats reveal the degree of ritual; the length of the ritual costume is longer than that of the daily one. We can see two kinds (large and small) of coats, jackets, and pants. The large-size clothing is for the dead, the small size one as daily clothing was used for filling the empty space of the coffin. Among the excavated clothing from Mr. Kim's tomb, clothing for the dead(shroud) is bigger than man's daily costume. Concerning the form, color, and materials of the costumes, clothing for the dead is similar to daily clothing, while there is the difference in their size. The oversized costumes of coats, jackets, and pants are also different in size, matching the structure of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.61-77
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• 2016

This study is to understand the meaning, the location, and the construction of Hyeonhun (玄纁) through the records and relics of the Chosun Dynasty. Hyeonhun means farewell gifts for the dead. Hyeonhun was very personal and was considered to be essential ritual supplies. it was newly made for not only first funeral(初葬), but also the second funeral(改葬), was individually made as well as in the couple funeral(夫婦合葬). the Hyeonhun ritual was performed while dressed in a simabok(緦麻服). The ritual started with washing of the hands(盥手) and deep bowing(再拜) twice. The Hyeonhun was placed on the lid of the inner coffin among the 3 coffins in Chosun tomb's way. The Hyeon was placed on the right side and the Hun on the left side of the lid.(玄右纁左). Hyeonhun are comprised of one, two, five of ten pieces. Most of the excavated Hyeonhun were two pieces : Hyeonhunsokbaek(玄纁束帛) consist of ten pieces, of which six were Hyeons and four were Huns. The records indicated that the materials used to make Hyeonhun was silk, but the excavated relics satin and twill, single gauze in the excavated relics advanced than the records.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2003

Lamaism is a Mahayana with strong shaman characteristics in Tibet and Mongolia. It was established through settlement of Esoteric Buddhism, based on Indian Buddhism, transferred to Tibet, mixed with a traditional Tibetan religion Bon which emphasizes shamanism, conducts Tantric and shaman rituals. One of the rituals, Tsam, is a dance drama for protection of Buddhism and enlightenment of the followers in which the monks perform in mask.