• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.19-29
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• 1997

A natural colorant was extracted from Clove using methanol. The dyeabilities and fastness of silk fabrics dyed with Clove extract were investigated. The results obtained were as follows; 1. The colorant extracted with methanol was higher in concentration than that with boiling water and was represented high reproducibility. 2. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60min, respectively. 3. The color depths were observed to be decreased as follows; pre-mordant > after-mordant repeat dyeing > after-mordant > simultaneous-mordant 4. Clove extract dyed brownish black on the Fe-mordanted silk. In case of the other mordants, silk fabrics dyed yellow. 5. The dyed silks had poor light-fastness but good wet-fastness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.166-173
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Rumex crispus L. root extract was investigated. The dyeability of Rumex crispus L. root extract was evaluated with condition of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, methods of mordanting, color fastness and antibacterial activity, etc. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the Rumex crispus L. distilled water extract appears at 274 nm and 336 nm, methanol extract was 274 nm and 356 nm. Optical dyeing temperature of silk fabrics was $70^{\circ}C$. The K/S values of the dyed fabrics were increased with increasing dyeing time. Surface colors of dyed fabrics were various by the used mordants; RP-YR-Y range. The color fastness was improved by adding mordants were added except Sn. Dyed silk fabrics with mordants showed antibacterial activity.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2004

The dyeings of cotton and silk fabric with Laurus tree extracts were investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for lh. Dyeability(K/S), color fastness and antibacterial property of cotton and silk fabric were tested under conditions of various time, temperature, concentration, repeat-number of dyeing and mordants. The characteristics of dyeings Laurus extracts were figured out by K/S and CIELab values and color-fastness test was estimated in terms of wash fastness and light fastness. The maximum wavelength of spectrum was 670nm. The K/S value of cotton and silk fabric increased with increasing dyeing time and the exhaustion was saturated in 90min. Optical dyeing temperatures of cotton and silk fabrics were $60^{\circ}C$ and $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The mordant effect on cotton fabric was achieved using Fe mordant. On the other hand, the mordant effect on silk fabric was obtained using Fe and Cu mordants. The wash fastness of cotton fabric was higher than that of silk fabric. Antibacterial property of silk dyeing was greater than that of cotton dyeing. In addition, the excellent antibacterial effect was imparted by Fe-post mordant method.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.7-14
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• 2003

Fabrics dyed with artemisia extract have quite natural and elegant tones of color. This study purposed to find the best one for dyeing among artemisia collected in the four seasons in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia. As for the method of research, the researcher dyed wool fabric and silk fabric with artemisia, and measured dyeability according to the number of repeats of dyeing, coloration by post-mordant, color fastness to washing, color fastness to dry cleaning and color fastness to light. The results are as follows. 1. In dyeing with artemisia, dyeability was improved as the number of repeat of dying increased, and it was higher in wool fabric than in silk fabric. 2. Among artemisia collected in the four seasons, autumn artemisia had dyeability much inferior to that of artemisia from the other seasons, and winter artemisia had the best dyeability. 3. According to the result of treating fabric with post-mordant, the dyeability was improved significantly, and coloration was most remarkable when copper and iron mordant were used. 4. The color fastness to washing and color fastness to dry cleaning of fabric mordanted with artemisia were as high as grade 4-5 and grade 5 respectively. The color fastness to light was highest in winter artemisia as grade 4.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.422-430
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of the colorants from gromwell on cotton fabric were investigated. The effects of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and the effects of mordants and mordanting methods on K/S value, color change and colorfastness were explored. Gromwell colorants showed low affinity to cotton fabric, and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type close to Langmuir type. Therefore, it was considered that hydrogen bonding and Vander Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to cotton fabric. Pre-mordanting method except Sn mordant gave higher K/S value but it was not significant. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color on cotton fabric depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed cotton fabric showed generally high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased by repeat dyeing and Fe and Sn mordanting.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.10-20
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. Three kinds of leaf powder colorants were prepared by freeze drying method with or without deep freezing as pre-treatment: one powder colorant from fresh leaf juice with deep freezing; two kinds of powder colorant from fresh leaves with and without deep freezing. Their dyeing properties and storage stabilities were studied and compared with the traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. The presence of indigo in the powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. They showed absorption peak at 602nm which was same with indigo absorption peak. Dyeing was done at low temperature around 6$^{\circ}C$. All three powder colorants produced B colors on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants from leaves gave higher color strength than the powder from leaf juice. The powder colorant prepared from leaves with deep freezing was the most stable for long term storage as its color and color strength were not changed after 360 days. So, this was used for further dyeing to study the effects of concentration and repeat dyeing on color strength and colorfastness. Fastnesses to dry cleaning and rubbing were fairly good above 4 rating. Further study is needed to improve light fastness. It was concluded that the leaf powder colorant with deep freezing could be used as a substitute for traditional juice extract dyeing at all seasons.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.953-960
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.17-22
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to obtain the basic element of patterns, which is the motif, from the existing art works and use it to create and simulate a variety of patterns to show the practical use of the computer. Natural dyed works of geometric shapes like squares and 1/4 of circles, each dyed with a different natural dyes, were produced and motifs were extracted. Then using the 4D box in Adobe Photoshop v.6.0, the developing pattern change and simulation effects when using different patterns and different repetition settings were examined. Observations were made as the motifs were replicated. Different patterns like a diagonal line, a square and a circle appeared. In order to find out the effects according to the changes, the motifs from work's square portions, circle centre, and the composition of eight motifs were extracted and used. The repeated patterns according to the extracted motifs simply showed that in the case of just repeating and arranging, square patterns appeared. By replicating and arranging, the motif and the allophone were matched and patterns with regular lines were formed, like a twill, pointed twill line. By setting the direction to Y and X in the repetition methodes, a typical half-drop arrangement or a brick pattern arrangement were formed according to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 1/3, or 2/3 in changes. Also the steepness of the slope changes quickly or in turn slowly as the rhombus shape appears. However in the case of a composed motif, an ogee pattern appeared. Lastly, by 3-D mapping patterns like a slant line, pointed twill patterns, diamond patterns, and the repeat patterns of a motif with a circle and a line combined, and a circle motif, an optical illusion could be observed.