• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제36권
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• pp.167-181
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• 1998

This paper is the result of research about what imply the symbolic significance of the shamna's costume in Siberia and Central Asia by using plates, medias and exhibitions in JNME. The reselts of the present study are summarized as follows; 1) The researcher define the shamanism as incantation, religious phenomenon centering arround shaman who communicate with the existence of preternatualness by possession or trance. 2) Siberia and Central Asia's shamans are comunicated with the existence of preter naturalness by trance. 3) In Siberia and Central Asia, the shaman's costumes is presented in a shaman ritual are caps, jakets, ornaments, stick and shoes. They symbolize spiritual world, stupendous shaman and powerful animal. 4) A significant symbolic meaning of shaman's costumes is that they change shaman to the existence of preternatualness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제50권
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• pp.33-50
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• 2000

A comparative and an analysis of the resemblance and the particularity of the women's headgear which has been developed in accordance with each of climate and historical beck ground of the Eastern Slavs: the Russians the Belarusians and the Ukrainians those are deeply influenced by the culture of costume of the Scythians which is considered as the origin of the Koreans culture of costume is presented in this study. A well-known Russian ethnographer D. K. Jelenin classifies the women's head gear of the Eastern Slavs as a platok a chepetch a shapka and a unmarried women's venetch by its structural figure. Those 4 kinds of head gears are the basic head gears of the Eastern Slavic woman. However the characteristics and the features of the head gears of the Eastern Slavic woman However the characteristics and the features of the head gears of each nations show us that they have been developed differently not only by the climatic and the geological influences but also by the influence of their historical background. Furthermore we could realize that the Eastern Slavs had classified a person's social position and a standing in family members by the head gear. The incantational and the religious meanings of the hair styles and the head gears are shown in this paper. For instance they has been considered that a married woman without a hat is a disgrace and it even affects to the harvest. Even they believed that a corn styled Russian woman's hat named "Roga" protects a mother and her baby from the evil spirit. It seems that such a ethnographical culture is caused by their own faith of Russian orthodox and a non-Christian ancient religious culture of those regions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.123-139
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• 2003

This study examines the characteristics of 45 sects of seven new aboriginal religious groups in Korea including Jeungsan sect, Tangun sect, Soowoon sect, Won Buddhism, Bongnam sect, Gahksedo sect, Shamanism sect through field study and various documents. The purpose of the study is to elucidate how their religious ideas are reflected in their ceremonial costumes and what characteritics and underlying meanings these costumes have, and I reached the following conclusions 1. The new religious groups in Korea modified or mixed the designs or names of existing outfits to convey their ideas or beliefs in their costumes. 2. The costumes of new religious groups turned out to have certain characteristics in common: they all reflected the times, Korean tradition, ancestor worship. 3. I looked at the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme to establish their structural characteristics, and it turned out that they an symbolized the creeds and ideas of each religion. The names of the costumes such as Way-Robe, Law-Robe, and Ceremony-Robe, for instance, had to do with Buddhism Taoism, and Confucianism. The most common type of costume consisted of traditional hanbok top, pant, robe, and some type of headpiece for men, and hanbok top and, skirt for women, and if women were to wear a robe, it usually meant the sect believed in sexual equality. There was also a tendency to simplify or minimize the dress code, which seems to indicate that the sect was trying to adapt itself to, the times. The most common type of the outer garment for men was a robe with narrow sleeves, straight lapel, and no slits, and a robe with wide sleeves, straight lapel, and slits for women. The color scheme of the costumes included blue, white, yellow, red, and black, reflecting the influence of the Yin-Yang and Five Elements idea and traditional preference for white of Koreans. 4. These religious costumes were worn at various ceremonies, ritual, and various anniversary services for the master and other dignitaries of the sect to render greater piety to those gatherings, to distinguish the sect from other religious groups, to clarify the meaning of the ceremony, and to heighten the devout feelings of the participants. Thus, the structure (the symbolicity, names, and types of the outfit, and their color scheme) and religious background of the costumes of the new aboriginal religious groups in Korea turned out to have inherited and mixed various element of traditional Korean outfit and those of existing religions to symbolize their religious ideas. Many religions in and fall, and each has its own dress codes, and I hope this study provides a framework and data for other researchers and leaders of new religious groups that will emerge in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.175-191
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• 2012

It is said that the mainstream of the oriental culture is Confucian culture, but not be the unique culture of Korea. The religious object in Taoist ideology of immortality reflecting the awareness of cultural community and Korean identity was three spirits. Three spirits are one spirit in terms of main subject. Three spirits were named because they rule the heaven, the earth and human beings each in the reality. The custom performing the religious service to the heaven and the earth is not based on the Taoist ideology of immortality but only the superstition which we can't understand. However, we can clearly understand the reason why the ideology has been transmitted up to now in our awareness and culture when we understand the basis of that ideology. The theory on the origin based on the birthplace of Taoist ideology would be based on the shamanism of Eastern barbarianism and their cultural features. Accordingly, this paper aimed to identify the formative features of phoenix pattern and background of the formation of phoenix pattern based on the unique culture of Korea. Furthermore, the traditional craft works of Korea with the phoenix pattern which secured its position as the representative pattern of Korea will be investigated.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.13-29
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• 2012

Art works reflect the spirit and aesthetic information of the times. More specially clothing shown in paintings indicates the phases of the times and contains the aesthetic values of the era. The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of German Romantic Era on male and female clothing style represented in Caspar David Friedrich's paintings. The study aims to highlight the following: First, German romanticism ironically gives conceptual importance but high value to freedom of inner self and imaginative sensitivity of human beings. Second, the paintings of Friedrich show the consistency with nature through human beings' inner self and transcendency ultimately expressing religious ideals paradoxically. Third, the characteristics of male and female clothing style shown in Friedrich's paintings are considered religious, contemplative, paradoxical, transcendental, conceptual, political, grass-roots oriented, and female liberating. Female clothing reflects simple empire-style, while male clothing shows romantic style of people's leaders, reflecting the political features in those days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.111-123
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.1048-1061
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• 2010

The purpose of the study was to compare the culture and the clothing value between Korean and American college students, especially men. Also, this study was to analyze the culture effect on the clothing value. The survey was performed and 200 questionnaires were utilized for this study. The SPSS 12.0 was used to analyze the technical statistics like average, frequency, t-test, factor analysis, multiple regression analysis. The result showed, first, there were some 2 major cultural differences such as power distance and long-term orientation between Korean and American college men. Comparatively, Korean college men showed higher masculinity and lower power distance and long-term orientation. Second, there were differences in the clothing value aspect. Both of them considered the economic clothing value to be most important. Third, there were some differences in the clothing value because of the cultural differences. For Korean college men, there were masculinity and long term orientation that had an effect on the social and religious clothing values, however, for American college men, power distance, masculinity and long term orientation that had an effect on the social, religious, theoretical and economic values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.117-132
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• 2012

This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.5-29
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• 2002

This study was to analyze the social identity described in the dress of the American novelist Pearl S. Buck's (1892-1973) major works. A novelist pursues varying and refined expressions in an effort to convey to readers the character' identities of his or her own creation. In particular, Pearl S, Buck was a great writer who was awarded the Novel Literature Prize, and since her work The Good Earth recorded a world-wide bestseller, she might well be called a popular novelist. She depicted well her characters' identities from divers viewpoints with her unique delicacy and realistic expressions. For this study, the following seven works which are considered to feature the dresses for character's identity well were selected out of her 85 works: The Good Earth (1931), Sons(1932), The Mother (1934), A Housed Divided (1935), The Hidden Flower (1952), Love and the Morning Calm (1953) and Letter from Peking (1957). For an analytical tool, the content analysis method was used. In order to systematically review the social identity described in the dress individuals' identity were classified into the following categories based on the identity theories: Social identity were divided into ① age identity ② sex, gender identity ③ economic identity ④ occupational identity ⑤ political identity ⑥ religious identity ⑦ kinship identity ⑧ regional identity. The characters' age identity, sex, gender identity, economic identity, occupational identity, political identity, religious identity, kinship identity, regional identity were depicted by their dresses and physical features. All in all, it is hoped that this study would provided important cues to the understanding of the other party's identity through his or her dresses in mutual relationship: It is believed that this study would be useful because they are arranged through the analysis of the dresses featured in the great writer's works using a consistent framework of analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제49권
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• pp.95-112
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to research of color symbol on white in the Virgin Mary and an Infant jesus icons. For this purpose icons were selected and analyzed from the medieval ages to the 18th century. The results were as follows. Icons on the subject of the Annnunciation and the Nativity should be expressive of nobility immaculacy and innocence of the Virgin Mary and an Infant Jesus. With this view white was used to be color of candle a waxing moon lily kettle dress bedspredad towel wall encircled garden and became symbolic color in the Icons. As a result the color symbol of white the meaning of immaculacy and innocence disseminated according to spread of the Christian religion. In these days though elimination of the religious meaning the white color is using continuosly as a symbolic color of immaculacy and innocence.