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A Study on the Transformation and Transformational Factors in Mongolian Women's Costumes -Focusing of Women's Costumes of Mongol.Yuan Era -  

최해율 (서라벌대학교 뷰티디자인과)
남윤자 (서울대학교 의류학과)
조우현 (인하대학교 의류디자인과)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume / v.52, no.4, 2002 , pp. 111-123 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.
Keywords
nomadic; oreign; religious factors; deel; borthag; Koryo style;
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