• Title/Summary/Keyword: religious clothing

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An Analysis on Characteristics of Ancient Indonesian Textiles (I) - Focus on Period, Religion, Region, and Color of the 'Sacred Cloths' -

  • Langi, Kezia-Clarissa;Park, Shinmi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.6
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    • pp.67-78
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    • 2016
  • Research on ancient Indonesian 'sacred cloths' is essential since it shows a different perspective into Indonesian identity. Based on its function, the 'sacred cloths' are either made as a medium for religious ceremonies or as a medium for the living and the dead. The consuetude of preparing and creating the 'sacred cloths' are done to achieve the finest 'sacred cloths' worthy to be presented to God. The research aims to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles and to focus on the 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts, and this paper is the first part. The paper analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the period, religion, region, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The subsequent research analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the techniques and the patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' In this first part of the main research, the analysis reveals that animism developed in various ways in Indonesia from 500 BC to AD 1800. It was also as kingdoms of Buddhist, Hinduism, and Islam. The changes of religion may differ according to its region. Indonesian regions are divided into six big regions that produce textiles. These islands are Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Nusa Tenggara, and Bali. By space and time, the colors of Indonesian textiles represent the ideology of one religion. Indonesia produces primary colors of red, yellow, and blue(RYB). The colors are produced by extracting leaves of Indigo, Indian Mulberry root shell, Sappanwood's branches, Candlenut fruit, Turmeric root, and Mangosteen rind. Indonesia is a religious country, therefore the meaning of creating each 'sacred cloth' shows piety of the maker and the wearer.

A Study on the Civil Costumes Appeared on Dutch Paintings in the 17th Century (17세기(世紀) 네덜란드 회화(繪畵)에 나타난 시민복식(市民服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Yoo, Joo-Lee;Cho, Oh-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.2
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    • pp.37-47
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    • 1999
  • In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

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Consumer Characteristics Influencing 'Difficulty in Discarding' Fashion Goods (패션제품 버리기 어려움에 영향을 미치는 소비자 특성)

  • Park, Hyun-Hee;Ku, Yang-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.559-568
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study was to identify the socio-psychological variables and demographic factors influencing the difficulty people may have in discarding fashion goods. In addition, differences of disposal behavior were investigated according to the degree of reported difficulty with which people discarded fashion goods. A total of 260 survey questionnaires were analyzed. Frequency, correlation, exploratory factor analysis, reliability, t-test and multiple regression analyses were used for data analysis using SPSS 22.0. The study results were as follows. First, the difficulty of discarding of fashion goods was positively affected by concern for the environment and the potential for creative reuse of fashion goods, whereas it was not influenced by interdependence. Second, there were differences in the difficulty with which people discarded fashion goods according to demographic factors such as gender and whether or not they held certain religious beliefs; however, there were no differences among other demographic factors. Third, the group demonstrating a high degree of difficulty in discarding fashion goods preferred certain disposal behaviors such as donating to religious organizations, schools, charities etc., exchanging with other people or bartering, reforming for other purposes, selling to secondhand shops or on the internet, storing without wearing it, or discarding it after salvaging reusable parts. The results of this study provide various guidelines for consumers and retailers of fashion products who are interested in the efficient disposal of fashion goods.

An Analysis on Characteristics of Ancient Indonesian Textiles (II) - Focus on the Techniques and the Patterns of the 'Sacred Cloths' -

  • Langi, Kezia-Clarissa;Park, Shinmi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.7
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    • pp.34-49
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    • 2016
  • The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

The Meanings of Black and White Represented by Dress - Focused on Semiotic Analysis - (복식에 나타난 흑색과 백색의 의미 - 기호학적 분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Young-Hae;Choi, Sun-Hyung;Kang, Soon-Che
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.3
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the signification system between color and clothes systematically in black and white clothes. For this purpose, after examining the images of black and white clothes, we selected 55 clothes that represented as black and white and analyzed their meanings and the sources using semiotic framework, based on the work of Saussure and Barthes. The results as follows: First, the meaning in black and white clothes was generated from original color image. White clothes of religious person like Virgin Mary, Angel expressed pure and sacred color image. And black clothes like funeral dress expressed grief and death. Next, the meaning of black and white clothes was regenerated into modern color image by new environment. After industrial revolution, black was considered as a traditional men's fashion color. With diverse leisure activities, white sports wear appeared as active and clean image. Finally the source of the meaning of the clothes was the designer or the wearer. A little black dress by Chanel who was interested in simplicity and function represents an ideal of simple and sexy object. The situation is complicated by the fact that these three kinds of explanation may be found singly or mixed together.

Comparison between the Persian textile design and the Byzantine textile design in their patterns (페르시아 직물문양과 비잔틴 직물문양의 조형성 비교)

  • Kim Young Oak
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.11 no.3 s.25
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 1987
  • The purpose of this study was to compare with the Persian texile design having an out-standing skill in fertile designs with the Byzantine textile dosing being influenced a lot by Christinity and many Oriental factors including Hellenism. These two textile design have some similarities and differences in their patterns. The results of the study were as follows: Similarities ; 1. The Persian traditional animals, hunting scenes and cavaliers are used as the major subject in both patterns. 2. Decorative designs enclosed circular are used in both patterns. Differences ; 1. The Persian textile designs are based on Zoroasterianism, and their animal designs have the Zoroasterian religious meanings. While the Byzantine designs are affected by the Christianity. In the Byantine textile designs, the mythical subjects from ancient Rome and Greece, and the circus scenes are dominent. 3. The Persian textile designs are combative, momentary, dignifed, and realistic pattern, while the Byzantin textile designs are playful, sketchy, humouristic, and evasive pattern. 4. Vivid color effect was found in the Persian textile patterns: however, more refined and gorgeous color was used by the Byzantine textile patterns. Thus, the Persian and the Byzantine textile patterns have interrelations with each other. In general, the Persian textile patterns have affected a great deal on the Byzantine textine textile patterns. They are essentially corelated with each other, but each of them has its own characteristics.

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A Study on the Fashion of Islamic Image (이슬람풍 패션에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Joeng-a;Jeong Hyeon-nam;Yum Hea-jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.1 s.139
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    • pp.23-34
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to spread the public recognition for the style of Islamic dress has been ignorantly left and provide this as the basic data for Islamic fashion design. This treatise restricts the Islamic scope into the southeast Asia and confuted the study referring to Islam related books, treatise, domestic and foreign fashion magazines as well as newspaper articles, Internet and screen materials. The study results are as follows: Commonly Islam as a term of religious scope means complex cultural body based on Islam. 1. The Islamic social and cultural images were categorized as (1) conservative and sexual (2) simple, static, decorative and rhythmical (3) dark, violent, bright and amusing image. 2. Islamic nations' style of dress was characterized (1) surface decorative dress (2) practical outer garment (3) trousers style. 3. Both men and women basically put on trousers in children's stories and animations. In case of women, they wear skirts and according a social standing, tunic and caftan style jackets. As for men and women, Dey both wear turbans or chadors but in particular, wealthy classes put on a distinguishable turbans and chadors with splendid accessories. 4. The characteristics of Islamic fashion are lace decoration around a sleeve and the waist or blouse and harem pants with a elastic cord. In addition, they are splendid necklace and ring earings looking old, accessories with big pendants and dragging belts. These examples are shown in collections and streets.

Fashion design applying to features of the Chinese minorities Naxi costume and seven star sheepskin cape (중국 소수민족 나시(納西)족 복식과 치싱양피 케이프의 특성을 활용한 패션 디자인)

  • Wang, Sha;Liu, Huan;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.331-347
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

"A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments - (구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Chan-Boo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.10
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

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Fashion design applying of features of chinese Hui minority costumes (중국 소수민족 회족(回族) 복식의 특성을 활용한 패션디자인)

  • Li, Sihan;Wang, Lifeng;Lee, Younhee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.167-180
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.