• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.401-414
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• 1997

This study examined the transition of costume in middle and high school girls after the abolition of school-uniform. Fashion photographs of $\ulcorner$Junior$\lrcorner$a Korean magazine for girls were used for the investigation. Skirts used mainly were changed in order of pleat tight flare and tight skirt And skirt length was changed in order of knee midi knee and mini. Slim baggy and straight pants together showed high frequency but after 1992 straight pants were used mainly. And pants of ankle length was prevalent. In jacket Hip line natural waist and H-line silhouette dominated. Silhouette of one-piece dress was changed in order or X line H line and A line. Semi fit and natural waist were prevalent. And length was changed in order of midi knee and mini. The coat of H line Loose semi fit and Knee length was the most frequently appeared style. Waist line of coat was changed in order of natural low no natural waist. In skirt blue white black and black were mainly in spring summer fall and winter respectively. In pants blue was used mainly regardless of the season, In jacket blue in spring and black in other seasons were used. In one-piece derss blue in spring red in summer black in fall and winter were used mainly. Black coat was used mainly. Therefore blue was the most frequently used color by middle and high school girls.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of clothing style and color of male casual wear on image perceptions and age evaluations. $4{\times}2$ (top color${\times}$trouser color) and $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (clothing style${\times}$clothing hue${\times}$clothing chroma) factorial designs were used as the experiment designs. Photoshop program was used to manipulate the clothing colors after creating photos of models wearing experiment clothing for stimulus. Subjects were 280 female college students from Seoul region and each subject responded to two stimuli. Factor analysis showed four factors of images of male casual wear; sociability, conspicuousness, softness and masculinity. Polo shirts were evaluated higher in sociability and softness than jumpers and nary blue trousers were evaluated higher in masculinity than beige trousers. High chroma clothing was assessed higher in sociability and conspicuousness than low chroma clothing. High chroma red jumpers displayed very sociable feel and low chroma blue jumpers displayed the lowest sociability. High chroma male clothing resulted in younger age perception but age was evaluated young when a black shirt was worn under the jacket when wearing a low chroma jacket.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.153-166
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• 1996

The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.78-90
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• 2014

This paper examines the way that the principles of coloration for Hoecha(繪次) and Sucha(繡次) were applied for shoe making in ancient China and Korea. Hoecha is the principle of drawing, and Sucha is the principle of embroidery. Hoecha and Sucha is the application principle of the five colors(五方色) from the five elements(五行: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth). Hoecha matchs a color with the opposite side color, and Sucha matchs a color with the beside color. A shoe consists of Sinul(body of shoe) and ornaments attached to it. According to the ratings of shoes, Hoecha and Sucha were differently applied for coloration of Sinul and its ornaments. In general, shoes were classified into Seok and Gu. For Seok, which was the high-ranked shoes, Hoecha was applied, while Sucha was applied to Gu, the low ranked shoe. As Hoecha was originally a principle of coloration for patterns on tops(jacket. 上衣), it was applied to the high ranked shoes i.e., Seok. Also, as Sucha was a principle of coloration for patterns on bottoms(skirt. 下裳), it was applied to the low ranked shoes i.e., Gu. Thus, black was decorated on red Seok, blue on white Seok, red on black Seok, yellow on hyeon(玄: a kind of black color) Seok, and white on blue Seok, all of which were applications of the principle of Hoecha. As the application of the principle of Hoecha to Seok was also done for red Seok for males and females in late Joseon, and red Seok for the crown prince in the period of the Korean Empire, black decorations were used for red Sinul. However, for blue Seok, worn by females in the period of the Korean Empire where Ming's systems prevailed, black decorations were used, which was an application of Sucha. Though there had been no discrimination between genders in the application of Hoecha and Sucha originally, the low ranked principle of coloration was applied to Seok for females.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.177-183
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• 1978

Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.130-136
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• 2008

The objective of this study was to date coffin woods of a grave of husband and wife, using the tree rings, which were excavated from Hoamdong, Chungju city in the central area of South Korea. The species of coffin woods was Japanese Red Pine (Pinus densiflora S. et Z.), one of the major conifers growing in Korea. The husband coffin was dated as A.D. 1628. Due to the absence of bark in the wife's coffin, the number of sapwood rings was estimated to obtain the cutting date. The cutting date of wife's one was estimated to be A.D. 1651${\pm}$10. The Jeogori Jacket for women, which was found in the husband coffin, indicates that the husband died earlier than the wife, as the tree-ring dates suggested.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.286-290
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• 2015

The wood veneers were clearly rainbow-colored with natural dyes. As shown through Korean-style jacket with stripes of multi-colors beyond traditional obang colors (red, blue, yellow, black and white colors), eco-friendly coloring methods representing Korean colors familiar from old times could be used nobly by coloring natural wood veneer being raw material of wood products. In terms of industrialization, the study to manifest korean color, substituting chemical stains such as dye and pigment, would be necessary. In order to realize this purpose, the study about economical dyeing materials and characteristics, that is, mordant, dyeing and drying techniques showing environment-friendly coloring and high coloration level ought to be followed. In addition to this, investigating discoloration transition by fading test for interior and exterior uses would have to be carried out.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.41-64
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• 1995

A clothing design preference & clothing satisfactions(a general satisfaction, fitness) was studied for women 55 years and older. The major results are as followings. In view of a clothing design preference, 1) Styles of outdoor clothes for spring-fall : ① Two-pieces ② Blouse(Sweater) & Slacks ③Blouse(Sweater) & Skirts. 2) Colors of clothes for seasons: (Spring - Pink, Light yellow, beige), (Summer - Light blue, Blue, Light green), (Fall - Brown, Red purple, Beige), (Winter - Black, Brown, Gray). 3) Fabric prints ; ① Unicolor without print ② Geometric print ③ Traditional print. 4) Kinds of textiles : ① Easy Laundriability ② A style of dressing ③ Uncrumple. In view of clothing satisfactions for ready made clothes, they have unsatisfactory trends as following orders. 1) Considering a general satisfaction : ① Clothing which go with oneself ② Fitness ③ Matching with other clothes. 2) Considering fitness for clothes : ① Sleve length ② Shoulder width ③ Length in Blouse (Sweater) & Jacket, ① Length ② Waist ③ Girth of hip (under abdomen) in slacks (skirts).