• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.471-483
• /
• 2013

The study aimed to investigate the wearing & purchase practices with shirts and analyze the group differences on the shirt size, BMI & perceived body type. Total usable questionnaires were obtained from 350 male office workers aged from 20 to 49 in Seoul. Results were gained from the statistical analysis such as factor analysis, ANOVA, t-test using SPSS 21.0. The results were as follows. First, male office workers had difficulty in choosing the right size among the different sizes of ready-made shirts and had trouble in vexatious order & high price for custom-made shirts, however, they had an emphasis on design and size for the 2 kinds of shirts in common. Second, the groups by shirt size, BMI, perceived body type showed significant differences in shirt fitness and shirt wearing methods of ready-made shirts but showed no difference in purchase intention of custom-made shirts. Fatness and body type were proved to be important for wearing shirts and it was assumed that there were socio-psychological reasons for the custom-made shirt purchase. Finally, the groups by the experience of purchasing custom-made shirts showed no difference in shirt fitness and shirt wearing methods of ready-made shirts but showed difference in purchase intention of custom-made shirts. This meant that purchase of a custom-made shirt stimulated another purchase. Therefore, shirt brands should focus on the first purchase of custom-made shirts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.556-568
• /
• 2018

In this study, we surveyed the current status and sizing system of the custom dress shirts sold through online shopping, compared with the sizing system of the ready-made dress shirts. We tried to collect the information needed to make the well fitted dress shirts for middle-aged men from this study. The 17 online custom dress shirt brands were selected and the sales type, sales price, design options and size options of each brand were analyzed. The sizing systems of online custom dress shirt brands were compared with the sizing system of the 10 ready made dress shirt brands. The result showed that online custom dress shirts brands offered a variety of design options and size options to meet the consumers' individuality, taste and demand for good fit. In the ready-made brands, all 10 brands were using the same size notation system. In the same size designation, the difference in product size among the ready-made brands showed a tendency to be smaller than the online custom brands. The online custom brands had the different size notation system among brands. The size notation, the number of size designation and the size interval were different for each brand. Also, in the online custom brands, the product size among brands differed from each other in the same size designation. Therefore, the standardized size information and sizing system for middle-aged men that could be used as criteria when making the product size and pattern design in online custom brands were needed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.679-689
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing & fit of ready-made and online custom dress shirts by surveying middle-aged men aged 40-54 years in order to collect information necessary for making good fit dress shirts. Also, we analyzed whether there were significant differences in the actual wearing of dress shirts according to the stature of middle-aged men. The stature was classified according to KS K 0050 as $R(157{\leq}x<170)$ and $T(170{\leq}x<182)$. The 23 questionnaire items were divided into three categories: 'General purchasing behavior and wearing', 'Fit satisfaction of ready-made dress shirts' and 'Wearing and fit satisfaction of online custom dress shirts'. Through the results of the study, we could understand the actual wearing condition of ready-made and online custom dress shirts. Also, differences in stature groups were found. The significant differences according to the stature groups were found in the interest in fashion, the purchase criteria, the limitation of the shirt size selection due to stature and body shape, shirt size satisfaction, repair experience, dissatisfaction with purchase and the experience of purchasing online custom dress shirts. Suggestions should be made to improve dissatisfaction with stature groups in the ready-made dress shirts. In addition, the study confirmed the consumer demand for the online custom dress shirts. In order to activate the online custom market, the online custom dress shirts company needs to reduce consumer dissatisfaction and improve size suitability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.6 s.105
• /
• pp.58-71
• /
• 2006

This research is aimed to develop the functional clothing designs for disabled women in the manner of investigating design preferences among them by means of questionnaire and interview with 150 disabled women as respondents and interviewees. The findings of this research are summarized as follows: 1. Regarding satisfaction with ready-made clothes, the respondents answered 'very satisfied' (1.6%), 'usually satisfied' (14.1%), 'moderate' (20.3%) and 'unsatisfied' (53.1%), suggesting that they had been generally unsatisfied with ready-made clothes. 2. There were more disabled women preferring to ready-made clothes with one-grade bigger (loose.) size than the actual one (53.1%) instead of completely fitted size (43.8%) when they purchased such clothes. This result indicates that they prefer to ready-made clothes with bigger size than the actual one because most of such clothes are made up of non-elastic materials which may be unfavorable for wearer's activities. 3. It was found that primarily worn upper garment among them was T-shirt (59.4%). The reason may be that T-shirt is favorable for using prosthesis and orthotics such as wheelchair, walking stick and crutches thanks to its remarkably high activity as well as simple to maintain, compared with other kinds of upper garments. 4. Regarding preferences to functional clothing designs, the primarily worn lower garment among them was trousers (85.9%); the reason was easiness to move. The main reasons of avoiding to wear a skirt included 'difficult to move' (40.6%) and 'exposed disabled region' (30.3%). Accordingly, functional clothing for disabled women should be developed in consideration for their individual characteristics of disability associated with the disabled region such as wheelchair user, crutch user or brace user, In addition, the designs should be made so that they are not different from those for non-disabled people.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.261-271
• /
• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.193-202
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study was to understand clothing condition of elderly men focusing on somatotype variation and satisfaction with ready-to-wear and to provide basic data in designing ready-to-wrar for the elderly men. The questionnaire method was used and one-to-one interviews were held for the elderly residents in Seoul, Deajon, Jonju, and Yeosu areas. The total of 275 questionnaires (from 148 elderly men in the 60's, 99 in the 70's and 28 in the 80's) were collected and used for statistics. SAS package was used for the statistics and the statistics were based on frequency, X2-test, ANOVA, Duncan's multifle range test. The results of the study were as follows; 1) Height (p< .05), weight (p< .001) and Rohrer index (p< .05) decreased significantly with ageing 2) The somatotypes of 75.6% were changed and the 70's 8t the 80's showed significantly (p< .05) higher changing rate compared to the 60's and more changes took place significantly (p< .001) with ageing. 3) The most preferred out wear was suit & tie and next was jumper or shirt. 4) For the mode of getting suit, the highest number 55.3%) purchased ready-to-wear, next (32.0%) was tailored and the least (12.7%) neither purchased nor tailored. The percentage of buying ready-to-wear significantly (p< .01) decreased with ageing. The main reason for getting tailor-made was not well fitting of ready-to-wear (20.7% out of 32.0%). And for the mode of getting suit, there was significant differance with income (p< .001) and pocket money (p< .01). 5) The most important factors in suit and shirt werefirst, size (fitness) and second, comfort in movement. 6) For the wearing feeling of suit, 55.3% showed discomfort. There was significant difference according to the age (p< .05) and pocket money (p< .05). The Discomfort increased with ageing and less pocket money. 7) 62.4% answered it uneasy to Pick out well fitting If comfortable suit. This showed their dissatisfaction with ready-to-wear. 8) As for the items of not well fitting, 64.4% answered in jacket, 60.8% in trousers, 46.0% in shirt. The above result shows that elderly men's somatotype changes as they age, suit is found uncomfortable and it's not easy for elders to pick out comfortable ready-to-wear. So, they seem to have a certain dissatisfaction in ready to wear. Therefore, there is a need for reorganization of size and developing pattern design according to measurement of elderly men.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.674-696
• /
• 2011

Recent change in consumption patterns, casual clothing market share is growing. Awareness about the quality of the product for a variety of consumer needs are becoming. Accordingly, stretch material items that satisfy modern production and consumption is increasing. Among them, circular knit and woven fabrics with different characteristics have. However, this requires a consideration of the pattern graphics, this study is not getting enough. The purpose of this study is to develop a T-shirt using circular knit pattern for women in early twenties. Through the research of literature and a survey on T-shirt patterns of ready-to-wear manufactures and training for the pattern 4 T-shirt patterns were selected. Eight women in early twenties who fit the bodily standard were selected for the test. Subjects who were tested by wearing a T-shirt made of 30's cotton circular knit. Drafting method of T-shirt pattern which were closed to the optimum value three, derived from the five point rating scale outfit test were selected and the differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified. Passed by the test of 2 times and the final research T-shirt pattern was developed through adjusting from the optimum value three. The form which is whole is a silhouette closely in the body and drafting method the elasticity and drapery considered the quality of the circular knit where the characteristic is excellent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.1
• /
• pp.89-105
• /
• 2014

This study researched the changes in everyday wear in China since the mid-20th century. The study was conducted by interviewing 13 Chinese persons who were familiar with the public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to now, and the results were analyzed through categorical analysis and subject analysis. First of all, due to the influences of Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-zhuang and Bulaji, political characteristics were represented the most during the reconstruction time, and during this time, Jieyueling also became famous. Second, during the period of the Cultural Revolution, the government used many mechanisms to control people's thought, so Junfu/Junbianfu and sailor shirt were the most common clothing. Third, information from the West began to enter the Chinese market and it started to influence and change the Chinese thinking. Suit, bat wing sleeves, colorful skirt, flares and jeans became more and more popular in the reform and open times. Fourth, during the personality expression time, people not only copied fashion icons' styles, but also created new styles like sexy, cute, ethnic, K-pop, street, and DIY style, in order to show their personality. Finally, during these 60 years, the changes of Chinese everyday wear were characterized by de-politicization, ready-made, diversification and individualization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.13-24
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for study of men's suits by investigating the wearing conditions of men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed of a number of times and the reason of the suit wearing, and a number of suits they posses etc. The subjects of this research were male who aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following : 1. The mean age of suit wearing for the first time is 22.7 years old. The younger began to wear the suits earlier than the older. 2. A number of times of suit wearing for a week is more than 5 days mostly. Being educated higher, the ratio of suit wearing is getting higher. And In the case of job, office men, sales men and men whose job of specialization are wearing suits many a time more than a graduate student and a technician. Most of tne men especially 30's$\sim$40's is wearing the suit as a working garment. 3. Most of men is wearing jacket, dress-shirt and necktie in spring and fall, dress-shirt and necktie in summer, and jacket, vest, dress-shirt and necktie in winter. 4. As a general rule, men have about 2 suits for spring/fall and winter, and about 1 suit for summer. Also male has more than 6 ready-made suits and about 1 custom suit. The last, men almost do not use the suspender with suits.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.91-100
• /
• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.