• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1286-1298
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• 2008

This study was attempted to examine the indigo dyeing technique in the latter Joseon Dynasty, and to find diachronic specifics in the indigo dyeing method from 17C to 19C. The results are as follows: First, There were 2 kinds of indigo species-Yoram(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) and Sungram(Isatis tinctoria L.)-in the latter Joseon Dynasty. Dangram was preferred in particular among Yoram species because of its high dyeing efficiency. Sungram was mainly used for making Jeon(indigo sediment). Second, Yoram cultivation took the following order: Sowing in April${\rightarrow}$planting out in June${\rightarrow}$harvesting leaves in August${\rightarrow}$collecting seeds in September. Sungram had more harvesting times and wider harvesting period than Yoram. Third, all indigo dyeing methods were grouped into two categories, one was temporary dyeing method, the other was permanent dyeing method. Mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, raw leaves dyeing, and fermentation dyeing belonged to the temporary dyeing. Jeon dyeing and Gaeogi dyeing belonged to the permanent dyeing. Finally, diachronic specifics from 17C to 19C were as follows: Decline in the mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, development in the raw leaves dyeing, continuance of the fermentation dyeing, and naturalization of Jeon dyeing technique.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.463-474
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• 2012

The purpose of this research was to find the suitable dyeing method for dyeing cotton fabric into indigo blue color using the raw indigo powder dyes sold in the Korean market. The research focused primarily on the comparison of the non-reduced dyeing method and the reduced dyeing method. The dyeing effects using different dyeing temperatures ($2{\sim}80^{\circ}C$) and different concentrations of reducing agent and alkali were also investigated. It was found that the reduced dyeing method must be used for dyeing cotton into indigo blue color using the commercial raw indigo powder dyes. The best result was obtained by $20^{\circ}C$ dyeing with the $40^{\circ}C$ dyeing giving a comparable result. The intensity of the blue color could be enhanced by increasing the alkali concentration. The non-reduced dyeing could not dye cotton fabric into indigo blue color at any given dyeing temperatures ($2{\sim}80^{\circ}C$). The reduce-dyed cotton fabrics showed a gradual color change upon repeated washing and extended sunlight exposure, the most color change occurring after the first two washing cycles and the first 5 hours of sunlight exposure. The standard tests of colorfastness showed that the reduce-dyed cotton fabrics had good to excellent colorfastness whereas the colorfastness of the non-reduce-dyed cotton fabrics were mostly poor.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.116-126
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the anti-inflammatory effect of Chung-Dae Indigo Pulverata Levis, indigo naturalis) produced during indigo dyeing. As a result of in vitro cytotoxicity experiments using RAW 264.7 cell, Chung-Dae extract did not inhibit cell proliferation in Raw 264.7 cells in the range of 1~32 ㎍/mL. NO production was significantly reduced when Chung-Dae extracts were treated at concentrations of 2, 8, and 32 ㎍/mL (p<0.05). The pro-inflammatory cytokines TNF-α, IL-6, IL-1β and IFN-γ significantly decreased when the Chung-Dae extract was treated at concentrations of 2, 8, and 32 ㎍/mL compared to the LPS group, and similarly, the TNFα and IL-6 mRNA levels also decreased. Additionally, the mRNA level of COX-2 was also suppressed. At the protein expression level, the expression of TNF-α, IL-6, iNOS and COX-2 were observed with LPS and Chung-Dae extract significantly decreased compared to the group treated with only LPS (p<0.05). From the above results, it shows that Chung-Dae extract, a plant-derived compound, inhibits the inflammatory response induced by LPS in RAW 264.7 cells. and in particular, regulates the inflammatory response by inhibiting the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines and inflammation-related enzymes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

Melange yams were prepared by varing the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, respectively. The antibacterial activity and deodorization on melange yarns were evaluated for bacteria reduction rate and deodorization rate. The bacterial reduction rate on melange yarns was explored with Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae. The melange yarns on the ratio of raw cotton dyed with Sappan wood and Indigo showed high Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate of 99% and 90%, regardless of Al-mordanting treatment, but those with Gadenia hardly showed bacteria reduction rate. The melange yarn showed high Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate of 99% for Al-mordanting treatment with Sappan wood. The others were poor. The deodorization of 81% and 98∼99% obtained with melange raw sliver and melange sliver dyed with Indigo, Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, but dyeing did not significantly affect deodorization rate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.202-209
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• 2021

Natural dyes are more expensive than synthetic dyes and the dyeing process, which is mainly immersion of dye, is complicated. For this reason, relatively small-scale production methods were predominant. However, awareness and interest in environmental sustainability is rising globally, and the use of synthetic dyes causes various environmental problems such as wastewater and CO₂ emission, so the consumption of natural dyes is increasing. In addition, interest in digital textile printing, an eco-friendly dyeing method that can produce products of various designs and uses less water, is growing. In this study, natural indigo dye (Indigofera tinctoria) was used as a raw material for Digital Textile Printing ink, and ¹⁴C (Biocarbon) present in it was measured to confirm whether it was derived from natural ingredients. The performance was confirmed by testing the pH, viscosity, electrical conductivity, surface tension, and particle size analysis of natural indigo ink. In addition, the performance of natural indigo DTP ink and printing fabric was evaluated by inspecting the change in color fastness and corresponding index substances before and after digital printing with natural indigo DTP ink on textiles. Through this, the possibility of commercialization of DTP ink and printing fabric using natural indigo was confirmed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.85-92
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• 2007

This study focused on bean-juice treatment method which have dyeing property to indigo, yellow soil, sappan wood, cochineal and also on the possibility of applying to mordanting. This is different from the active mordanting using chemicals. Natural mordants with development of dyeing are not harmful, also are the medicines for disease. Limestone and ash neutralize the acidic soil. bean-juice protein adhere to cellulose surface and change the physical properties of protein so that coloring of dye is better than before and film non-soluble in water is made. Therefore the color made from bean-juice process lasts after washing. This study try to show one of the ways to improve the current method using the heavy metal which can have bad effects for environment and human being. Bean-juice(raw bean, heated bean) treatment method can be the way to fix the natural dyeing problem of bad dyeing. Bean-juice had been treated under various condition with pre-treatment, post-treatment and raw bean, heated bean. Following results are obtained in this study. In the case of Indigo dyeing, pre-treatment of heated bean shows the biggest difference of color. In the case of yellow soil dyeing, pre-treatment of raw bean-juice shows the biggest gap of color. Pre-treatment of heated bean in sappan wood dyeing case and post-treatment of raw bean show bigger color difference than pre-treatment of raw bean. In cochineal dyeing, raw bean pre-treatment shows the biggest color difference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 2013

Market available fermented indigo powders of Indian origin (FI1, FI2), Chinese origin (FC1, FC2), and raw indigo powders of Indian origin (R1, R2) were examined using TLC and HPLC analyses to investigate their pigment contents. TLC analysis gave $R_f$ values of 0.81 and 0.72 for blue and red pigments, respectively. All the powder products and the synthetic and natural indigo standards eluted at 6.9 min and 8.3 min in the HPLC chromatograms, and the peaks showed the ${\lambda}_{max}$ at 610nm and 542nm, representing indigotin and indirubin, respectively. The pigment content calculated based on the area of indigotin and indirubin peaks in the HPLC chromatograms showed that the indigotin content was higher in FC1 and FC2, while FI1 and FI2 had a higher indirubin content. The relative percentage of indirubin was the highest in R2, but the HPLC peak intensity was quite low. Despite the higher indigotin content in FC1 and FC2, cotton dyed with FI1 and FI2 (versus cotton dyed with FC1 and FC2) showed a higher blue (B) hue, the highest K/S values, and the highest antimicrobial effect.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.219-234
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• 2014

Fabrics, natural dyed fabrics, papers, natural dyed papers and paints were examined effects of colors and mechanical properties for materials of museum collections under anoxic treatment. Anoxic conditions using nitrogen and argon were oxygen concentration 0.01%, temperature($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 50% RH and exposure time 30 days. Examined fabrics were raw silk fabric, UV irradiated raw silk fabric, degummed silk fabric, UV irradiated degummed silk fabric, cotton fabric, and UV irradiated cotton fabric. Natural dyed silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with fresh indigo, indigo, safflower, gromwell, madder sappanwood, amur cork tree, turmeric, gardenia, barberry root, pagoda tree flower, cochineal, lac, alnus japonica, gallnut, chestnut shell, and combination(indigo and safflower, indigo and amur cork tree, indigo and pagoda tree flower, indigo and sappanwood). Papers were Korean papers(mulberry paper, mulberry(70%) and rice straw(30%) mixed paper), Japanese paper(gampi paper), cotton paper, refined linen paper, cotton, linen & manila mixed fibre furnish, copy paper, news print, and alum sized mulberry paper. Natural dyed papers were dyed with indigo, sappanwood, madder, safflower, gardenia, amur cork tree, and pagoda tree flower. Paints were painted on alum-sized papers and silk fabrics using glue and pigments(azurite, malachite, cinnabar, vermilion, orpiment, gamboge, red lead, haematite, iron oxide red, indigo(lake), lac, cochineal, safflower, madder root lake, celadonite, smalt, ultramarine blue, lapis lazuli, prussian blue, kaolin, lead white, oyster-shell white, and clam-shell white). The color differences(${\Delta}E^*$) of all examined materials were below 1.5 or lowered than control samples after anoxic treatment. The variations of tenacity of yarns of fabrics and natural dyed fabrics after anoxic treatment were within that of standard silk and cotton fabrics. Gases(nitrogen and argon) and temperatures of anoxic treatment did not also affected color differences and variations of tenacity of materials.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.227-230
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• 2009

This study was aimed to determine color sensibility factors for naturally dyed fabrics and to investigate their relationship with color variables such as hue and tone and dyes. Two hundreds different fabric colors prepared by a variety of natural dyeing were subjectively evaluated by color experts, which resulted in three color sensibility factors including 'Pleasant', 'Comfort', and 'Modem'. Among hues, Yellowish shade by natural dyeing was found as more pleasant and more comfort than any others. Among main tones for natural dyeing, g(grayish) and ltg(light grayish) were more felt in 'Comfort' whereas d(dull) more in 'Pleasant'. As for dyes, Gardenia Blue, Gardenia Yellow, and Anato tended to give feelings of 'Pleasant' whereas Raw Indigo and Loess did 'Comfort'.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.64-77
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• 2011

Objectives : 판람근(板藍根)은 십자화과에 속하는 대청(大靑) 또는 숭남의 근(根)을 건조한 것이다. 본 연구는 판람근(板藍根)이 청열해독(淸熱解毒)함에 근거하여, LPS로 활성화된 Raw264.7 cell에서 판람근(板藍根)과 그 성분중의 하나인 tryptanthrin이 염증매개물질에 미치는 효과를 살펴보고자 하였다. Methods : 세포생존율은 MTT, nitric oxide (NO)는 Griess reagent를 사용하여 측정하였으며, 각 단백질의 발현량은 Western blot 방법을 사용하였으며, cytokine 및 cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2)는 ELISA방법을 사용하여 측정하였다. Results : LPS는 NO 및 prostaglandin E2 (PGE2)를 유의하게 상승시켰으며, 판람근(板藍根)추출물 (IRE) 및 tryptanthrin 은 이들을 유의하게 억제하였다. 그러나 판람근(板藍根)의 또 다른 성분인 indigo는 유의한 결과를 나타내지 못하였다. IRE와 tryptanthrin은 inhibitory kappa B alpha의 인산화를 억제하여, nuclear factor-${\kappa}$B (NF-${\kappa}$B)의 핵으로의 전위(轉位)를 억제하여, iNOS 및 cytokine을 억제하였다. IRE와 tryptanthrin의 PGE2 억제는, COX-2의 발현억제에서가 아니라, COX-2의 활성을 억제함에서 기인하였다. Conclusion : 이러한 결과는 판람근(板藍根)이 NF-${\kappa}$B pathway를 경유하여 iNOS의 발현 및 COX-2의 활성을 억제함을 나타내며, 이러한 판람근(板藍根)의 항염증효능은 일부 tryptanthrin의 작용에서 기인함을 시사한다.