• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권7호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

여성복에 있어서 09/10년 시즌에 가장 주목할 만한 특징은 파워 숄더 룩이다. 파워 숄더 룩은 단순히 패션니스타들에서만이 아니라 당당히 스트리트 패션의 하나로 자리 잡았으며 파워 숄더 룩의 50%이상을 차지하는 재킷이 여성복의 핵심 아이템의 하나로 부활하면서 재킷의 어깨 각도는 0도에서 30도 이상까지 다양하게 나타난다. 다양한 어깨 각도 중 10도, 15도, 20도의 형태가 70%이상을 차지하고 있으며 패턴의 형태는 몸판의 어깨선을 자연스럽게 올리고 확장한 어깨변형 패턴, 어깨선과 함께 소매산 부분을 절개한 소매산 변형 패턴, 몸판과 소매가 연결된 패턴이 주를 이루고 있다. 파워 숄더 패턴 전개는 어깨 각도가 높아질수록 각이 시작되는 점이 목옆점에 가깝게 하고 어깨끝점이 확장되어야 소매의 외관형태가 편안하고 피트성이 좋아진다. 어깨 변형의 경우 앞뒤 진동선의 시작점인 어깨점과 소매산의 정점 부분의 선이 완만하게 이어지도록 S라인형태를 유지하는 것이 가장 중요하며 소매산의 ease분량이 일반 재킷 소매보다 많아야 파워 숄더 실루엣이 자연스럽게 연출된다. 소매변형 패턴은 중심쪽 소매의 소매산 높이는 기본소매 소매산높이의 1.5cm를 외곽 소매분량으로 처리한 것을 고려하여 소매산 높이를 설정하고 어깨 각이 커질수록 외곽소매의 소매산 폭을 크게 함으로서 소매의 어깨점이 목옆점 방향으로 휘지 않고 각이 선 파워 숄더가 완성된다. 소매변형과 소매와 몸판연결 패턴의 경우 어깨점과 상완이 연결되는 부분에 충분한 여유가 필요하며 어깨각도도 다른 형태에 비해 상대적으로 낮아 보인다. 이와 같이 파워 숄더 재킷 패턴은 패턴 제작시 디자인적인 요소를 충분히 감안한 패턴 설계와 함께 소매의 달림선 위치, 어깨너비, 어개 높이 확장량, 소매통의 여유량 등을 고려하여 제작하는 것이 바람직하다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.446-455
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• 2014

This study revealed the results related to the functionality of outdoor wear required when man and women in their 30s to 50s engage in outdoor activities. Based on the results of the survey, we proposed composition draft for a smart outdoor jacket with main functions of GPS device and light-emitting device using solar cell and EL. Absorption and release of sweat, functionality regarding rain and wind, and lightweightness, etc. from material functionalities of outdoor wear were found to be important. From function required in clothing for outdoor activity, location tracking, night glow, and lighting functions were found to be most important. For results investigating the necessity of the jacket's location tracking function and lighting function using solar cell, high scores of 3.9~4.0 were given. Purchase intentions for smart outdoor jacket with location tracking and lighting functions devised by this study were fairly positive and most responses indicated that the appropriate purchase price was between 200,000 to 300,000 won while possible problems of this smart outdoor jacket were listed in the order of washing inconvenience, high price, device weight, and discomfort in movement. The draft proposal to integrate with wearable devices for smart outdoor jacket prototype is as follows: Solar cell has been attached to the upper arm but placed inside a transparent pocket which has been detachable for washing convenience while the solar cell and controller have been integrated into a single unit. Using frequent movement exhibited by the arms, EL has been attached along the center line of the raglan sleeve for easy spotting when used as an emergency signal or for night lighting function during outdoor activity. GPS has been attached on the left sleeve so that the person can bend the left arm inward and operate the GPS screen with the right hand while walking or running outdoors.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.845-856
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• 2014

This study focused on the production and usability evaluation of smart outdoor jackets that are designed to provide convenience to middle-aged people by embedding devices for lighting and location tracing. The results were as follows. 1. Jacket power supplier was a assembled system composed of battery, charger, controller and switch. A solar cell was attached on the upper arm, and a wire type EL on the center line of a raglan sleeve along with a GPS on the left sleeve with a transparent vinyl pocket. The total weight of the jacket embedded with devices was 385-520g. 2. Operation of function, activity, acceptability, safety, convenience for device use, appearance, practical maintenance were selected based on an analysis of evaluation criteria of previous smart wear research. Criteria were narrowed to three major categories of satisfaction, appearance and maintenance. 3. Use satisfaction criterion consisted of wearable device functionality and physical, psychological use convenience. The evaluation indicated actual functionality. EL functions were especially effective and necessary. Convenience of use showed that a smart jacket was thought to be safe and the size was moderate regardless of age and gender. Outer appearance was satisfactory and respondents praised the color. The practical maintenance evaluation indicated that there was no challenge in doing the laundry since the solar battery and GPS were detachable. The practical use of smart outdoor jackets confirmed by fabric that was washable and dried quickly.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권8호
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• pp.107-120
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to characterize the preference for fashion design according to fashion value of Net generation's. This study has 824 samples of individuals aged from 13 to 24. These sampling data are analyzed by frequency analysis, cross-tabs analysis, T-test, LSD-test, MANOVA and ANOVA utilizing SPSS WIN package. The results of this study are as follows; Net generation's is economic value higher than other fashion value and prefer for ring cuffs, mandarin sleeves, shirt collar, round neckline, tailored pants, blue color, check pattern according to economic value. It is proved that in case of shirt, people prefer ring cuffs, raglan sleeves, shirt collar, for jacket, prefer coat cuffs, mandarin sleeves, tailored collar, for jumper, they prefer single cuffs, set in sleeves, soutien collar and for T-shirt, prefer round neckline. For the design and length of pants, people prefer long tailored pants, color of blue and check designed one. It is proved that women haute a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than men do.1318 teenagers have a higher preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than semi-adult. Above university educational-course Net generation has a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than high school educational-course Net generation does. A class of average monthly income of 2-3 million won has a higher degree of preference for neckline-design and color than other lasses do. And there is no difference at the preference for the fashion design when considered classes of average monthly expenditure on purchasing clothes.