• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.28-41
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• 2008

Fashion style in movies delivers their image the atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking the characters in the movies and including its plot. When the American new cinema emerged in late 1960's and early 1970's in the American movie history, the new left wing which wants to overturn adult generation and the hippie culture which wants to escape from an existing system also emerged. Therefore, this study analyzed the fashion style in the movie 'Easy Rider (1969)', i.e. the representative new American movie which showed the isolation from adult generation and negative realities of the American society. From the movie, we can understand the young generation after the Vietnam war, i.e. baby boom generation, pursued the hippie culture as their young culture. With their strong self-consciousness, they formed their own lifestyle and values which are different from those of adult generation, and we can understand clothes were used as a tool to express their value system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.14-26
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• 2010

This study aims to investigate how the woman's beauty makeup trend had been changed in 1960s by analyzing the characteristics of woman's make-up in that period. For this study, a lot of documents and papers related to the woman's make-up were collected and reviewed. In particular, to analyze the characteristics of woman's make up trend in 1960s, a lot of women's pictures and makeup-related articles from 143 volumes of woman's magazines such as Yeowon and Jubusaenghwal were collected. Among the 624 pictures, fifty two pictures which were good enough for studying the total face and makeup were used for this study. The period of this study ranges from 1960 through 1969 and the analysis is focused on skin expression, eyebrow, eye shadow, eye line, lipstick, and brusher and through the related articles, the intention and contents of make up. were delivered and found out. The results are as follows. In early 1960s, the woman's make up was characterized by the make up ranging from unnatural and gray skin expression to dense pink skin expression, giving natural and glossy tint onto the skin and in particular putting a bright accent on the eyelid, eye or lip. In the mid-1960s, the make up style expressed skin more naturally, giving more shading on the eyelid, nose and lip, thus having cubic make-up. In the late 1960s, the make up became more refined and harmonized by using colors according to the TPO (time, place and objective) and skin color. The study results show that the women in 1960s pursued the "cute and young looking image" and used the make up to express their images young and cute. In the mid 1960s, the minimalism which pursued the pure and simple make up appeared in US. That trend affected the make up style of Korean women and hence Korean women showed more natural make up style in the mid and late 1960s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.261-275
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• 1995

This paper analyzes the parallelism between the art trend and the fashion. As a representative case, we consider the Modernism and the Flapper look. The Modernism rejected the tradition of the past and pursued something new. This trend was in parallel with the fashion called flapper look which was against the tradition and made drastic change. The factors which represent the spirit of the age the Modernism are the simplicity, the rejection of the tradition, the individualism and the subjectivity, the functionalism, the fragmentation of the self, and the straight line. We discuss the fashion style of the flapper look in terms of these factors.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.329-341
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• 2014

This study examined the effects of cultural communication on the fashion distribution type and the shopping benefit in fashion cultural complex space. Surveys period was from Sep. 17th to Sep. 21st in 2012. The Subjects of this study were the young 207 people who had shopping experiences in fashion cultural complex space in their 20s~30s. The data were analyzed by a reliability analysis(Cronbach's ${\alpha}$), factor analysis and regression analysis. The main results of this study were summarized as follows. First, cultural communication in fashion cultural complex space were impacted by cultural brand, cultural display, cultural support and beneficial effect of culture. Second, customers pursued the shopping benefits to get social value, personal pleasure, individual style and economic value. Third, the preference of fashion outlet was effected by cultural brand and cultural display. The beneficial effect of culture and cultural brand influenced on department store preference. The preference of fashion multi-brand shop was impacted by cultural brand, cultural support and beneficial effect of culture. Fourth, cultural communication in fashion cultural complex space had an effect on pursuing shopping benefits. Fifth, customer's demographic characteristics impacted on cultural brand, cultural display and beneficial effect of culture. Especially, these 3 cultural communications were effected by monthly average fashion spending than age/total income.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.397-415
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.4
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• pp.233-244
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• 1991

This study was counducted to identify a relationship between the aesthetic costume arising from an and-social minority movement towards the end of 19c, England on the one hand, and bustle and crinolette style which were in fashion at that time, on the other. The aesthetic comstume is studied with articles and cricatures in the magazien "Punch" which was famous for its harsh criticisms of society. Aesthetic elements from various sources were praised or sometimes cricatured by Punch. Aesthets pursued naturalness as is found in Greek costume in reaction to the gross modernised Victorian costume. To be specific, the aesthetes pursued 1)loose robe instead of corset with bustle or crinolette, 2)2nd/3rd dimentionally-coloured dyes instead of anyline in the costume. Liberty Department Store in London has planyed a very important role as a major supplier or aesthteic articles to the aesthetes.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.143-154
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate fashion product image evaluation according to life-style groups of middle-aged women. The subject of investigation was 352 middle-aged women from 35 to 59 living in Daegu by random sampling method in April and May, 2005. The investigation was carried out by questionnaires which were composed of 3 sections: Fashion product image measure, Life style research and demographic variables(age, academic background, occupation, monthly clothing allowance, monthly income). The statistical methods to analyze the data were frequency, percentage, average, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test. The results are summarized as follows: 1. As a result of factor analysis for fashion product image, the four factors including noble image, bold image, practical image, female image were extracted. 2. Middle-aged women were classified into four life-style groups including tradition oriented group, negative oriented group, activity oriented group and appearance oriented group. 3. Significant differences in fashion product image preferences according to life-style groups were found. Tradition oriented group preferred noble image and practical image. Negative oriented group tended to pursue practical image. Activity oriented group pursued a bold image. Appearance oriented group liked a noble image the best and then noble image, bold image in order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.267-280
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• 2011

This study examined bag purchase behaviors for male consumers based on fashion attitudes. Data research were conducted on 304 males in their 20s and 30s located in Seoul & Gyeonggi province. The SPSS 17.0 software program was used to conduct data analyses such descriptive statistics, frequency analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, $X^2$-test, t-test, ANOVA, and Scheffe's test as a post-hoc analysis. The results of this study were as follows: Fashion attitude was identified with four factors personality, social recognition, practicality, and dignity. Customers were segmented into three subdivisions: conspicuous, recognition of individual style, and practicality of clothing. The factors derived from the factor analysis of selection criteria included intrinsic attributes and extrinsic attributes. Males in their 30s valued the intrinsic attributes and males in their 20s valued extrinsic attributes. The group of conspicuous of clothing, valued both intrinsic and extrinsic attributes as important. The factors derived from the factor analysis of bag pursuit benefit included pursuit of fashion/economic, famous brand, quality/convenience. Males in their 20s and 30s pursued famous luxury brands and fashion attitudes had a positive relevance to the bag pursuit benefit.