• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.155-172
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1455-1466
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• 2002

This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2004

형이공방(Keiji Kobo)은 독일 바우하우스의 교육활동이 그 정점에 있던 1928년에 결성되어 전쟁의 기운이 짙어져서 더 이상 활동을 할 수 없었던 제2차 대전 직전까지의 약 10년 간 미래를 내다보는 혜안으로 건축의 새로운 사조를 표방하는 근대디자인을 목표로 하여 여러 가지 활동을 한 희귀한 자생적 디자인 연구단체로써, 일본이 서구 디자인 사조를 흡수하여 현대 디자인의 장을 화려하게 펼치는 데 상당한 영향을 끼친 상징적 단체이다. 형이공방에서는 산업시대를 전제로 한 새 시대의 생활공예-합리적인 생활가구-를 추구함으로써 근대적 사고를 실천하기 위하여 활발한 활동을 전개하였다. 이 공방의 작업은 조사 시작(試作) 실험 연구 전시회 강습회 주문판매 광고 집필이라는 많은 영역에 걸쳐있다. 그 활동은 결코 상업적인 목적으로 변질되지 않은 진지한 것이었으며, 군국주의 일본이라는 당시의 특수한 시대적 배경에 비추어 보더라도 놀랍도록 기능주의 사고를 견지한 순수하고 투명한 이념을 가지고 있었다. 이 공방은 어슬프고 규모가 적은, 10년 남짓 활동했던 연구집단이었다. 그러나 조용했던 그 활동 속에는 불같은 의지가 숨어 있었으며, 오늘의 기준에서 보더라도 그 파급효과를 과소평가 할 수 없음을 알게 되었다. 일본의 오늘과 같은 발전의 이면에는 무수한 선각자의 기여가 있었을 터인즉, 형이공방의 그것도 디자인분야에 관한 한 빠트릴 수 없는 것 중 하나이다. 미루어 짐작컨대, 당시의 일본 지식인들은 그들의 헌신과 활동이 대중의 삶의 질을 근대화시키는 데 하나의 기여가 되기를 하나같이 열망하고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 형이공방은 어떤 의미에서 일본에서의 꽃피다 만 작은 바우하우스라고 평가할 만하다.