• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.25 no.4 s.34
• /
• pp.145-154
• /
• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.31 no.1 s.49
• /
• pp.43-49
• /
• 2005

Recently, according as people who have sensitive skin increase, we've been giving more importance to the safety of cosmetics. Especially, preservative is known to be one of the main stimuli which cause side-effects of cosmetics. However, there have been few reports describing cell cytotoxicity, skin penetration, oil-aqueous phase partition, anti-microbial activity of preservatives and their correlation with skin irritation. The study is aimed to develop low irritable preservative system with phenoxyethanol, one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics, considering various factors mentioned above. According to our results of cell cytotoxicity against human normal fibroblasts by means of MTT assay, phenoxyethanol showed the lowest cytotoxicity when compared to other preservatives tested (cytotoxicity: pro-pylparaben > butylparaben > ethylparaben > methylparaben > triclosan > phenoxyethanol), but human patch test for assessing shin primary irritation revealed that phenoxyethanol has higher skin irritation than methylparaben and triclosan. We performed in vitro skin penetration test using horizontal Franz diffusion cells with skin membrane prepared from hairless mouse (5 ${\~}$ 8 weeks, male) to evaluate the rate of skin penetration of preservatives. From the results, we found that the higher irritable property of phenoxyethanol in human skin correlates with its predominant permeability (skin penetration: phenoxyethanol > methylparaben > ethylparaben > propylparaben > butylfaraben > triclosan). Therefore, we made an effort to reduce skin permeability of phenoxyethanol and found that not only the rate of skin penetration of phenoxyethanol but also its skin irritation is dramatically reduced in formulas containing oils with low polarity. In the experiments to investigate the effect of oil polarity on the oil-aqueous phase partition of phenoxyethanol, more than $70\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in aqueous phase in formulas containing oils with low polarity, while about $70 {\~} 90\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in oil phase in formulas containing oils with high polarity. Also, in aqueous phase phenoxyethanol showed greater anti-microbial activity. Conclusively, it appears that we can develop less toxic preservative system with reduced use dosage of phenox-yethanol and its skin penetration by changing oil composition in formulas.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
• /
• v.30 no.3
• /
• pp.352-357
• /
• 2019

In this study, a reactive emulsifier with vinyl groups was synthesized by using 3-butenoic acid and polyoxyethylene(20) stearyl ether. The synthesized reactive emulsifier was confirmed by FT-IR and $^1H-NMR$. In addition, the reactive emulsifier synthesized in the preparation of aqueous acrylic pressure sensitive adhesives was used and the properties of the respective pressure sensitive adhesives were compared to those of using commonly used nonionic emulsifiers. The solid content was measured in the range of 56.8~57.4%. In the case of the initial adhesion, the S20BA made with a reactive emulsifier was measured as $^{\sharp}13$. Peel strengths of the prepared adhesives were measured in the range of $0.66{\sim}1.05kg_f$ and the highest peel strength was observed for S20BA. As a result of the heat resistance test, S20BA showed the highest as $840^{\circ}C$. In order to evaluate the applicability of adhesives for skin, the pH value was measured as 7, neutral and also it was found to be non-irritation from primary skin irritation test results.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.21 no.8
• /
• pp.36-43
• /
• 2020

The extracts of antioxidants, torreya nucifera and alphinia henryi, were tested for properties as a fragrance material and applied to a mask pack formulation to study the fragrance properties. The DPPH antioxidant test of hot water and ethanol extract confirmed that the ethanol extract had superior antioxidant efficacy compared to the hot water extract. It was confirmed that the optimal mixing ratio as a raw material for the mask pack of torreya nucifera and alphinia henryi was 3:7 as a result of the DPPH antioxidant test. As a result of the cytotoxicity test, the cell viability was good as it showed 103.30% at 0.5 ug/mL, 104.25% at 1 ug/mL, 102.56% at 5 ug/mL, and 99.17% at 10 ug/mL compared to the untreated group. As a result of the patch test on the mask pack formulation, the skin irritation index of 0.02 was judged as a non-irritation product in the skin irritation primary stimulation human application test. In the evaluation of skin moisturizing, it showed a significant increase rate of 19.178% compared to before the sample adaptation. Evaluation of the change over time in the sheet mask pack formulation confirmed the formulation stability without viscosity and pH change for 12 weeks at low temperature(4℃), room temperature(25℃), and high temperature(45℃).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
• /
• v.33 no.4
• /
• pp.641-645
• /
• 2004

Crude chondroitin sulfates extracted from midduck tunics (Styela clava) and munggae tunics (Halocynthia roretzi) were examined in vivo in order to be utilized as a cosmetic material which was followed by an in vitro assay. Examinations, such as acute oral toxicity, skin sensitization, acute eye irritation, and primary skin irritation, were peformed with a variety of laboratory animals. Phototoxic and photosensitization tests were not conducted since all chondroitin sulfates failed to absorb U.V. light at the range of 280 to 420 nm. In acute dermal and eye irritation, both specific clinical signs and dead cases were not demonstrated during the test period, but crude chondroitin sulfates from midduck and munggae tunics, and standard chondroitin sulfate from bovine trachea were showed 2.5, 1 and 1.25 of acute ocular irritation index (A.O.I.), respectively. In the case of skin sensitization, crude chondroitin sulfate from midduck tunics exhibited neither specific clinical signs nor dead cases in the entire course of the examination. While in acute oral toxicity, crude chondroitin sulfates from both midduck and munggae tunics found neither specific clinical signs nor dead cases during the test, and LD50 was suspected to be over 2 g/kg. Based on this study, it was proven that crude chondroitin sulfates from either midduck or munggae tunics can be used safely as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.47 no.4
• /
• pp.341-352
• /
• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.101-107
• /
• 2022

In this research, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiaging, and skin whitening properties of pulp and seed extracts of passion fruit were studied. The result of the primary skin irritation test using a skin-attached patch determined the skin irritation index to be 0.00 for the passion fruit extract. In addition, RAW 264.7 macrophages produce NO by stimulation of lipopolysaccharides, and the application of extracts to this resulted in significantly lower NOs, confirming the excellent anti-inflammatory properties of passion fruit extracts. The 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl test further confirmed that the passion fruit extract exhibits a good 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate radical scavenging ability of 5.11% and strong antioxidant properties. The presence of collagen type I in the skin is a measure of aging and various skin diseases. The results obtained from the analysis of the activity of human procollagen I alpha 1 confirmed that the passion fruit extract reduces the synthesis of procollagen. In addition, the skin whitening property of the passion fruit extract was confirmed by the melanin inhibition test, and a sample was obtained that contained more than 2% of arbutin, a whitening agent approved by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, which is generally present in the form of a white powder and is used as a functional ingredient. This confirms that the whitening efficacy of the passion fruit extract obtained from nature contributes to the development of functional raw materials for cosmetics and food.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.41 no.1
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 2015

Cornus walteri Wanger has been used in folk medicine in Korea. Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation has been known as a major cause of photo damage in skin. In the present study, research on how to cure damaged cells by UVB was conducted using an extract of Cornus walteri Wanger leaves (CWE), which was treated with an enzyme. CWE was applied to human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) affected by UVB. UVB-irradiated HS68 cells showed increased caspase-3 activity, phosphorylation of p53, ${\gamma}H2AX$, cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) formation, and DNA fragmentation compared with non-irradiated cells. However, all these effects were inhibited by treatment with CWE for 12 h after UVB irradiation. Furthermore, CWE has proved not to cause primary skin irritation through the human patch test. Collectively, these results suggest that CWE could be a new potential candidate as photoprotective agent against UVB-induced cellular damage in HDFs.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.50 no.1
• /
• pp.20-26
• /
• 2012

In this study, silk gland powder of silkworm were investigated to see the possibility for baby powder cosmetics materials. To test possibility as a baby powder cosmetics, total content rate of amino acids, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, MTT assay, and clinical trial were done. According to the result of the analysis of the amino acids of silk gland powder, serin (26.77%) content was the highest and asparatic acid (15.47%), and glycine (9.62%) were followed. DPPH free radical scavenging activity of silk gland powder was lower than vitamin C by 82.3% and 97%, respectively, which is relatively good. Moisture effect were increased in silk gland powder compared to control cosmetics by 50%. Also, silk gland powder was classified as a practically non-irritating material based on the score 0.05 of primary irritation index. Thus, these results suggest that silk gland powder of silkworm may have beneficial properties as a material for baby powder cosmetics.

• Food Science and Preservation
• /
• v.23 no.7
• /
• pp.1026-1032
• /
• 2016

Citrus platymamma hort. ex Tanaka is widely used in traditional Korean medicine because of its medicinal benefits including an anti-inflammatory effect. This study aimed to evaluate changes in the flavonoid content and anti-inflammatory activities of C. platymamma during its harvest period. Fruit peel samples were obtained between September 2015 and February 2016. The results indicate that C. platymamma peel extract (CPE) was an effective inhibitor of lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced NO production in RAW264.7 cells. The inhibitory effects of CPE at $100{\mu}g/mL$ concentration included dose-dependent decreases in the expression of iNOS and COX-2 proteins. In addition, CPE decreased the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines TNF-${\alpha}$, IL-$1{\beta}$, and IL-6. The highest anti-inflammatory activity and flavonoid content were observed in CPE of C. platymamma peel harvested during the immature fruit period in September. Further, to assess the suitability of CPE for cosmetic use, we performed MTT assays using HaCaT keratinocytes and observed that CPE did not exhibit any cytotoxicity. To test the potential application of CPE as a cosmetic material, we also performed primary skin irritation tests on normal skin of 30 volunteers and no adverse reactions were observed. The results of this study indicate that CPE may be considered as an anti-inflammatory candidate for inclusion in cosmetic materials.