• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.28-34
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• 2011

Deep coloration of cotton fabrics with concentrated Rhus verniciflua extract was carried out using large amount of Glauber's salt and a mordant in order to improve dyeability and functional properties such as deodorizing and antimicrobial activity. With increasing in the salt addition upto 80% in the dyeing liquor containing 0.45% extract concentration, K/S value and exhaustion increased threefold from 1.2 to 3.5, indicating that the salt reduced the electrostatic repulsion between the dyes and the cotton fibers. Also the concentrated extract solution to 8% can increase the color build up upto a K/S of 11.1. In addition the combined pre- and post-mordanting methods with potassium alum enhanced the dyeability upto a K/S of 22.2. The ammonia deodorizing property increased with increased color yield of the dyed fabrics. Also the dyed and post-mordanted fabrics with 8% extract concentration showed antimicrobial activity against both Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1625-1631
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate dyeing properties of cotton fabrics by American fleabane extract. Effect of dyeing condition on dye uptake and effect of mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Its affinity to cotton fiber was considerably lower than wool, and its hydrogen bonding was involved in the absorption of American fleabane colorants to cotton fiber. K/S value of pre­mordanting was higher than sim-mordanting or post-mordanting. Except that Sn mordanted showed high K/S value, it did not significantly increase. American fleabane produced mainly yellowish color on mordants and mordanting method. Cotton fabrics showed generally high colorfastness except colorfastness to washing.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.633-639
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• 2015

The experience of natural dyeing is expected to be effective in promoting health through good exercise, in giving emotional stability based on the functional aromatic components of the dyeing material, and in improving self-esteem and increasing positive experiences through the behavior of creation. A natural dyeing material easily found around us, artemisia has long been used in food and Oriental medicine and was recently found to contain antioxidative, anticancer, deodorizing, antibacterial, anti-obesity, and anti-diabetes substances through chemical analysis. It has also been reported that group reminiscence therapy using the fragrance of artemisia is effective in relieving pain and depression and in promoting ego integrity in the elderly population. This study aimed to make a comparative analysis of dyeability, washing fastness, and deodorization between Artemisia princeps, Artemisia iwayomogi, and Artemisia annua, all of which are considered to be healthful and functional dyeing materials, among about thirty domestic plants in the genus of Artemisia and to provide basic data concerning natural dyeing in mind-peace education for the silver generation. The fabric dyed and post-mordanted at $80^{\circ}C$ for 40 minutes showed the greatest surface color variation; in this condition, artemisia princes (32.29) gave the greatest color difference, followed by artemisia iwayomogi (31.07) and artemisia annua (26.17). While all the types of artemisia were excellent in washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, and rubbing fastness at the fourth- or fifth-grade, light fastness was at the third grade for artemisia princes, at the second to third grade for artemisia annua, and at the second grade for artemisia iwayomogi; therefore, artemisia princes was found to give better fastness than the other two types of artemisia. In determining functionality of the fabric dyed with artemisia, deodorization test also found that the fabric dyed with artemisia princes had 20% higher deodorization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.874-881
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• 2013

Dansam (Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge) is a perennial plant that belongs to the Labiatae family and is characterized by red pigment found in the epidermis of its roots. Research on the dyeability of Dansam extract was performed with repeated trials under various conditions such as temperature, time, and mordant treatment. Silk fabrics were dyed with Dansam extract and mordanted with various agents such as Al, Fe, Cu, and Sn to evaluate the dyeability and functionality of Dansam extract; subsequently, the K/S value and the change of surface color were analyzed using a colorimeter. In addition, the dyeability of dyed fabrics (such as color fastness to washing, dry cleaning fastness, rubbing fastness and light fastness) and functionality (such as antibacterial activity and deodorization) were analyzed. The surface colors of all dyed fabrics were recorded and the results showed the presence of mostly YR series of colors; in addition, a GY color series appeared in the Fe pre-mordants of the silk fabric. The highest K/S values were recorded in Fe post-mordants. The washing fastness were Level 3 and Level 4; in addition, the dry-cleaning fastness showed excellent results at Level 4 and Level 5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory at Level 3 and Level 4 and the light fastness was satisfactory at Level 4. The results of the measurements (that pertained to the antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with Dansam extract) showed a 99.9% bacteria reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. In regards to deodorization ability, dyed fabrics were found to have higher deodorization rates than those not dyed. The dyed fabric demonstrated exceptional deodorization qualities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1030-1038
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at 60℃ and 60min. Crabyon, composite fiber of Chitin/Chitosan and cellulose, is manufactured by uniformly blending Chitin/Chitosan and cellulose viscose and extruding the blended viscose into spin-bath. Cotton towels with crabyon fiber dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. Crabyon fiber contained cotton towels dyed using gallnut were pre of post-mordanted using Al, Cu, and Fe. The dyeability(K/S) and color characteristics(L^*, a^*, b^*, C, and h(color angle)) of dyed crabyon fiber contained cotton towels were measured by computer color matching machine and photographs. The crabyon fiber composition of cotton towels was conformed by amide peak(-CONH-) of chitin or chitosan of FT-IR spectroscopy. The results obtained were as follows; The amide peak of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels appeared at about 1652 cm⁻¹. The dyeability of crabyon fiber contained cotton towel was increased gradually with increasing concentration of gallnut dyeing solution and saturated at about 150%(o.w.f). The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 90~100℃ and 80minutes expectively. The crabyon fiber contained cotton towels were dyed reddish yellow by non, Al, and Cu mordanting, reddish blue by Fe mordanting, respectively. The fastness to washing according to concentration of gallnut in and mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 3~4 degree in all conditions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.219-229
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with sweet potato stem leaf extract. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing conditions(temperature, pH, time and bath ratio). The dyeability and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. After dyeing, various color fastness(wash fastness, dry cleaning fastness, light fastness, rub fastness, and perspiration fastness) was measured and reviewed for UV protective, deodorant and antimicrobial functionality. The optimun output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 80 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and mordanting, it was found that among four mordants of $Alk(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, $SnCl_2$, and $FeSO_4$, post-mordanting with $SnCl_2$ showed the best results. Color fastness to dry cleaning, washing and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to perspiration was as good as 3 while to light fastness was good at 4 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98.3% UV protection rate and 88% deodorization rate. Antibacterial activity was 99.9% against staphylococcus aureus and 73.3% against klebisella pneumoniae. In conclusion, we validated that the dyestuffs from the disused sweet potato stem leaf extract would be useful as a natural dye material using the optimized conditions and dyeability for silk dyeing.