• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.226-236
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• 2000

The mutual relation dynamics between the chulik and the Po for man in the period of chosun dynasty. The objectives of this study are to find out the mutual relation between the chulik and the Po for man-symeui, danryeong, changeui, jikryeong-, te change of chulik, and the ideas that made this change. Conclusions are decribed as followes: 1. The pattern of chulik and symeui is same, and they consist of bodice and skirt's length of the chulik was 1 : 1.3∼2 and it is effected by symeui. And symeui was effected by pratical structure of the chulik. 2. The functions of the chulik were the underwear of danryeong and the upperwear as military uniform. And then the length of chulik was shorter than danryeong in the early period of shosun dynasty. The sleeves were changed as large as danryeong in the late period of chosun dynasty. It is assumed that the changes were to be a functional underwear and to appear authority as upperwear. 3. Chulik as the underwear was hardly worm in the 17th centuries, and changeui was widely enjoyed instead of it. The reason of this change is that the pragmatism was emphasied in that period. 4. Chulik was widly worm instead of court dress, until the mid of 17th century after war. It was effected by outer factor of the war. And jikryeong was widly worm instead of chulik in the late period of chosun dynasty. It shows that military officers wanted to appear authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1598-1607
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the proportion of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, we have attempted to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and find out adequate methods for analyzing shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. We established three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. The measurement tool for three-dimensional model was whole body 3D scanner(Exima-WBS2H). Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. As the results show, there were different effect of gather and proportion of shapes among the measurements of width, thickness and areas made by different lines of vision in cross-sectional silhouette. And there were difference shapes of section area at each part of gathered skirts between vertical-outline silhouette and vortical-plane silhouette made by gathering conditions. And also the cross-sectional silhouettes and vertical silhouettes were related to shape of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.66-81
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.673-681
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• 2005

Sewing is an important process in clothes-making. It is directly or indirectly connected to a factor of fitness, as is the case of pattern making and design. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the sewing methods for tight skirts currently being sold by twelve clothing companies on the market. For the purpose, the skirts, which was released in 2002 Fall season, was physically disassembled and then every sewing detail was closely investigated. The major findings are as follows: All sorts of the skirts show different sewing methods in hemlines, back slits, and zipper. Hemlines and zippers, hand-sewn, are often used by high-price brands. Brands that emphasize trends usually use machine sewing. Specifically, the sewing methods applied in the allowances at the upper part of the back slit show significant differences among brands. One method leaves allowances enough in both sides for the stability of the skirts, another trims both allowances very closely, and the other trims only left-side allowance down to the edge of the back slit. This study findings will be helpful not only in understanding sewing techniques for skirts and improving its quality, but also in offering more comfortable and superior clothes for consumers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.42-57
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• 2007

The purpose of study is to investigate costumes of the heroin in the opera which has performed by 4 different directors ; Metropolitan opera by Franco Zeffirelli, San francisco opera by David Hockney, Salzburg Festival by David Pountney and Korea Arena opera by Zhang Yi-mou. In these performances, Her costumes normally expressed the change of her characteristic from a haughty and cruel lady to a lady who realized a true love. The former is wearing exaggerative and splendid styles while the latter is wearing simple and ladylike styles. Costume styles of each performance are like this. In the Metropolitan's opera, costumes are very splendid using brilliant fabrics and accessories of Chinese peking opera. Their costume styles are influenced by Chinese 'Pao' which is similar to Ming Style. In the San Francisco's opera, costumes are very simple, specially pattern of dragons. This silhouette mixed Chinese style and western dress. In the Salzburg Festival's opera, costumes are based on simple western style but they expressed her mind effectively like a extremely long skirt which means her haughtiness. In the Seoul arena opera, costumes are based on Ming styles using silk which embroidered dragons, phoenixes and flowers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to help efficient use of marking system and more competitive products manufacture through the actual investigation into manufacturing process of apparel products. For lack of the previous study on marking, fundamental survey was performed on systematic research for pattern marking in ready-made production line Data were collected from 36 companies using Apparel CAD/CAM through questionnaire and interview. The data were analyzed by using Frequency and Crosstabs utilizing SPSS. The results were as follows : 1. Marking situation in clothing companies were examined ; 24 companies(66.7%) use computer marking, and 12 companies(33.3%) have both computer marking and hand marking. Besides only 9 companies out of 36(25.0%) have CAM in cutting process. 2. The efficiency in marking methods was also studied and the expense-saved ways were presented. we have found there is no difference in a way of the textural efficiency but the working methods of hand marking and computer marking. 3. Merits and demerits in marking methods were investigated. In case of marking two men's wear (Jacket and Pants), it takes 38 minutes by hand whereas it takes 15 minutes by computer ; for two women's wear (Jacket and Skirt) 49 minutes by hand, and 16 minutes by computer. 4. Most of the markers have less than 5 years experiences and among them most women are less experienced. They are in the mid-twenties after college graduations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.93-109
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• 1996

Madeleine Vionnet, a representative designer of the 1920′s, who made prefectly organized clothes with unique formativeness was the first to express fabric in a modern method and was called "The architect of fashion". This is because she developed a three dimensional design by expressing cloth-she rejected corset, should pad, etc-into elegant curved lines that do not stick to the body. By granting meaning to the beauty of the body and its movement in her own unique ways, she emphasized the formativeness in her work and gave shape to creative artistry. Expecially with the "Bias-Cut" she could express the lines of the body more flexibly and could make geometrical styles like the diamond shape dress or the triangle dress more effectively. Using the "Tired Bias cut" and "Handkerchief point" she let the skirt hemline dangle irregularly in geometrical forms, thus showing modern formative sense which forms a three dimensional solidness along the movement of the human body. Thus far, analyzed how the contemporary trend of art was reflected in her designs by studying her work; also investigated through her artistic characteristics and pattern method. Also be tried to find out what can be learned through her artistic view and superb formativeness as a designer.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.17-31
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.