• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권2호
• /
• pp.185-192
• /
• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.223-237
• /
• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• 복식
• /
• 제23권
• /
• pp.99-110
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern drafting method which would be suitable for their physical characteristics for the fatty body of Korean elementary school boys who re more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index. The procedures of the study were as follows : We have surveyed the rate of fatty children who were more than 1.5 Rhrer's Index on 2, 185's and elementary school children. The result of research showed the rate of fatty boys in 9-11 years-old were the highest one. Therefore, body measurement and statistical analysis. 203's boys between the ages of 9-11 and over 1.5Rhrer's Index were measured on 25 items. Descriptives, correlation and factor analysis were computed. Fatty boys higher than standard boys, and bigger than grith and width items. 4 type of conventional pants pattern were collected . The most accepted conventional pants pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based on the most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing test. After new pattern drafting , the sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing it with the conventional pattern. The result of sensory evaluation , it was found that the new pattern was more suitable then the conventional pattern.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제16권1호
• /
• pp.48-57
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제40권1호
• /
• pp.97-113
• /
• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제22권4호
• /
• pp.605-618
• /
• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제10권6호
• /
• pp.52-62
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제48권1호
• /
• pp.94-107
• /
• 2024

This study developed compression pants with excellent wearability and signal quality by approaching the design of wireless sEMG monitoring pants from the perspective of technical design, including the evaluation of wearability and the stable wireless transmission of signals through electrode and circuit design, and using e-textiles. An electrode, sewn with silver thread and a circuit stitched in a zigzag pattern using stainless steel wire, were applied. Additionally, polyurethane sealing tape was used to enhance adherence to the skin and reduce electrical resistance. Conductive snaps completed the design, allowing attachment and detachment to the bio-signal acquisition mainboard. Through the subjects' evaluation, it was determined that the final pants were applied with a pattern reduction rate of 25% to provide superior comfort according to different body parts while also minimizing skin irritation around the thigh circuit. The final pants for wireless sEMG monitoring, which demonstrated stable transmission of wireless measurements, was positively evaluated in terms of cognitive acceptability. This study is significant in that it achieved an optimal design by considering both technical aspects and the electrical characteristics of bio-signal monitoring garments, as well as the wearer's perception when designing smart wear.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제26권3호
• /
• pp.360-376
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study was to make a pants pattern suitable for women 70 to 85 years of age, then analyze that- pattern's shape, size, appearance, fit, allowance and air gap. Participants made the pattern using 3D simulation program DC Suite version 5.1. The results suggest a design method suitable for the lower-body shapes of elderly women. In external appearance, the A-type earned the highest evaluation in all items except the allowance of the back waist and back hip. The L type earned the highest evaluation in the allowance of back waist and hips. The A-type's, back waist appeared set at an angle that did not match the body shape of an old-old aged woman in the center-back-line setting. Therefore, the pattern method of A-type combined with L-type's method of center back, produces an excellent pants pattern. Evaluation of the air gaps among patterns revealed that; the A-type showed the largest air gap in waist and hip circumference and the smallest air gap in thigh circumference. The waists, abdomen, and hip circumferences of older women often become larger while their legs become slimmer. This study accounted for those factors in determining a pattern suitable for the lower-body shape of old-old aged women. However, participants only analyzed four patterns and compared them with women 70 to 85, years of age. Therefore, it is necessary to develop industrial patterns applicable to a wide age group.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권1호
• /
• pp.26-36
• /
• 2011

The study analyzes the development of slim-fit formal pants patterns for middle-aged men. This study suggests a new pattern that complements the problems of the existing fit on the basis of the standard nude size for middle-aged men with lower garments through the analyses of one-tuck pants patterns from 5 popular brands. As a result, the waistline is lowered by 0.8cm out of consideration for the waist circumference. The crotch extension is reduced by 1.5cm, the back crotch length is revised, the center back waist point is raised by 0.9cm, and the hip line is straightened. The slim-fit is perfected of the new lines from the thigh to knee-line.