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A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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The Effects of Cinema Costumes on Fashion -Based onEdith Head's Work- (영화예술에 나타난 의상이 유행에 미친영향 - Edith Head의 영화 의상을 중심으로 -)

  • 이정희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.31
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    • pp.145-164
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    • 1997
  • Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

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An Analysis of 2007 Summer Women's Street Fashion in Dalian, China (2007년 여름 중국(中國) 대련(大連)시 여성 스트리트 패션 분석)

  • Bae, Soo-Jeong;Baek, Jeong-Hyun;Choi, Yoon-Kyu;Yoo, Wha-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.11
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    • pp.1692-1703
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    • 2008
  • On 2008, China comes to be an era of opening the market for 30 years, being both the 4th economically biggest country and 2nd ranked clothing export country in the world. China plays a huge consuming market for the world, along with the competition arena for the numerous world fashion brands while more than 100 kinds of Korean fashion ones being launched into the China. By applying the analysis and investigation of preferred street style. in local area to the development of fashion items and design, the synergistic effect of university and industrial corporation might also be expected. This study aims to provide the basic resources for the development of fashion design on behalf of the Korean fashion brands launched into China and moreover to anticipate the requirement on the part of Chinese consumers by way of understanding the preferred fashion styles, through analysis and investigation of the street fashion in Dalian, northeastern area of China. Conclusively, in terms of clothing style, 80.5% of casual style and 19.5% of formal style were notified. The jean casual, and easy casual being dominant in the former, feminine style in the later. In view of the high frequency of T-shirt, sleeveless on the top, full-length pants and 7/9 length pants on the bottom. The simple and cool style seems to be favored, making them easy through the hot summer. The upper clothes exposed in body part of back, chest and shoulder, were frequently shown. In light of colours. white, black, red were preferred on top, blue and black were preferred on bottom. To deal with accessories, the shoulder bag mostly preferred among bags, the sandal, slippers, snickers in sequential order among shoes, the hair pins and rubber band(tied or, held up style), in hair accessories. Other items of hat, belt, and sunglasses, which could give a point to the summer style, were identified low frequency.

A Study of Costumes of the 18th Century, Appearing in Genre Paintings from the King Young-Cho Period to the King Jung-Cho Period: Focused upon the Works of Focused upon the Works of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang (영ㆍ정조 시대의 속화에 나타난 18C 복식에 관한 연구 -오명현, 윤용, 이인상, 강희언, 작품을 중심으로-)

  • 최은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.859-879
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    • 2004
  • As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

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A Study on the Preference for Fashion Design According to Purchase Attitude at Interned Shopping Mall - An Analysis of the Central Net Generation - (인터넷쇼핑몰 구매태도에 따른 패션디자인 선호도에 관한 연구 - N세대를 중심으로 -)

  • 최정선;유태순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study was to characterize purchase behavior at internet shopping mall and the preference for fashion design through analysis Net generations. The subjects for this sample were teen-agers and university students who had dwelled at pusan and ulsan in south korea. This study had 824 samples who had purchasing of fashion apparels at the internet shopping mall. The sampling data in this survey was analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, T-test, Duncan-test, MANOVA and ANOVA of SPSS WIN package. The results of the study were as follows: 1. It was proved that among 824 individuals, 790(95.9%)individuals uses internet or pc communication and 33 individuals don't use any of them. 35.1% of using internet people have been using that for 1∼2 years. And they used internet for 1∼3 hours in a day(52.9%). And Net generations preferred Internet Shopping Mall because they didn't need to take the troubles of shopping and parking, but at the same time, they seemed to have distrust because they couldn't check the products personally. 2. People who decide to purchase by products and pursuit of information prefer cuffs, collar design, people of pursuit of convenience prefer sleeve, neckline, pants design, people of advertising and pursuit of services prefer cuffs, sleeve, collar, neckline, pants design and color. People who was dependent on perception of danger when they purchase preferred color and pattern. 3. It was proved that purchase attitude for men at internet shopping mall was convenience and for women, advertising and pursuit of services. 1318 teenagers decided to purchase mainly by advertising and pursuit of services at internet shopping mall and semi-adult are less dependent on that factors than 1318 teenagers did. Under high school educational course Net generation was dependent on the factors of advertising and pursuit of services when they purchase at internet shopping mall and above university educational course Net generation decide to purchase by the factors of products and pursuit of information. Also, people whose average income was above 3 million won ware dependent on the factors of advertising and pursuit of services and people whose income was under one million won was decide to purchase by the factors of perception of danger. People whose monthly expenditure on purchase was above 50,000 won ware depend on advertising and pursuit of services more than people whose expenditure was under 50,000 won did.

The Color Characteristics of Masculinity Presented in Modern Women's Suit - Focus on the Paris, London, New York and Milan Collections from 2004 F/W to 2006 F/W - (현대 여성 수트에 있어서 남성성(masculinity)을 나타내는 색채 특성 - 2004~2006년 F/W의 파리, 런던, 뉴욕, 밀라노 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Ji-Hyun;Kim , Young-In
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.2
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    • pp.62-77
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    • 2008
  • This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

The Study on the Sweating Responses of Adult Female according to Garment types (의복형태에 따른 성인여성의 발한반응에 관한 연구)

  • Yeom Hee Gyong;Choi Jeong Wha
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.16 no.4 s.44
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    • pp.405-416
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    • 1992
  • This study was performed to investigate correlation between total body weight loss and local sweat rate and to find out any possible method that can estimate total body weight loss judging from local sweat rate. Twelve adult females were kept at 44 $\pm1^{\circ}C$, 50 ${\pm}5\%$ R.H. (1) Physiological responses such as total body weight loss, local sweat rate, rectal temperature, skin temperature, blood pressure and pulse, (2) micro climate inside garment and (3) subjective sensation were examined. Two types of garment such as long-sleeves with long pants (Type I) and half·sleeves with short pants (Type II) were used to observe the effect of garment types on sweating response. Both clothing weight was equal (132$\pm$3 g/$m^{2}$). The results were as follows: 1. Regardless of the different types, total body weight loss was more interrelated with the sweat rate on forehead than any other parts of the body. Except the forehead, different parts of body with different types of garment influenced on body weight loss quite differently. 2. Total body weight loss was more interrelated with the weight gain of garment than the local sweat rate. 3. Under the environment of 44$\pm1^{\circ}C,\;50{\pm}5\%$R.H., body weight loss during 1 hour of subject clothed and silted was 275.2 g/hr and weight loss per body surface area was 178.9 g/$m^{2}/hr$ Garment types have no influences on total body weight loss. 4. Local sweat rate (mg/7.07 $cm^{2}/hr$) was 208.0,191.0, 133.0, 115.0,81 0, 75.1 and 66.3 on scruff, breast, forehead, forearm, thigh, upper arm, leg respectively No evidence has been found that garment types influenced on local sweat rate (p<0.1). 5. No interrelationships between rectal temperature and total body weight loss, local skin temperature and total body weight loss, and local skin temperature and local sweat rate were found. From this study, some possible method that we can estimate total body' weight loss judging from weight loss of garment. But considering the fact that clothing design factor, the physical characteristics of fabric and environmental factor such as humidity and wind velocity should be concerned in weight loss of garment, it should be studied further whether the total body weight loss can be estimated properly from the weight loss of garment. This experiment suggest that different parts of body with different types of garment can influence on body weight loss quite differently. Therefore, in order to get more precise results, more studies under the diversity of garment types should be done in the near future.

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Trend in Preference for Dental Hygienist Image among Health Care Workers (일부 병원 종사자들의 치과위생사에 대한 이미지 선호 경향)

  • Yoon, Hyun-Seo;Kim, Jung-Sool;Lee, Mi-Ok;Kim, Hyun-Dae
    • Journal of dental hygiene science
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.211-218
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to examine preference for dental hygienists. The subjects in this study were 228 employees in general hospitals located in the region of Busan, on whom a survey was conducted in May and June, 2009. The findings of the study were as follows: As for top priority of dental hygienists' duties, providing assistance for dentist treatment ranked first(28.2%), followed by scaling(23.2%) and preventive duties(20.6%). Concerning a favorable image of a dental hygienist, a cheerful look was most preferred(61.4%), followed by a clean-cut look (32.9%), a refined look (3.5%) and an intellectual look (2.2%). Among the subjects, married respondents exhibited a greater liking for a cheerful look, and the gap between them and the unmarried subjects was statistically significant($x^2=8.11$, p<.05). In terms of uniform preference, a two-piece suit with pants was most favored(76.3%). Female respondents showed a greater preference for a two-piece suit with pants, and the gap between them and the male respondents was statistically significant($x^2=41.09$, p<.001). As for major qualifications, professional knowledge was most valued (49.1%), followed by integrity/responsibility(23.2%), friendliness(22.4%), and a great personality/being well-cultivated(5.3%). Employees who were in their 40s and up placed more importance on integrity and responsibility, and the gap between them and the others was statistically significant($x^2=20.62$, p<.01).

A Study on urinary Incontinence of Adult Women : Preliminary Study (성인여성의 요실금에 관한 기초 연구)

  • 최영희;홍재엽;김문실;김애정;김정아;백성희
    • Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.171-183
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study was to identify the incidence of urinary incontinence in adult women and to identify factors related to life style and sexual intercourse that were related to incontinence. The sample consisted of 1,065 women living in Seoul or one of five provinces. Data for this study were collected from January 16 to June 23 using structured questionnaires. The Urinary Symptom Questionnaire developed by Jackson and a demographic questionnaire were used to collect the data. The data were analyzed using frequency, percentage with an SPSS/PC$^{+}$ program. The major finding are as follows : 1. The distribution of age of subjects was as follows : 20-29(10.1%), 20-39(17.8%), 40-49(27.3%). 50-59(22.3%), 60-69(12.9%), 70-79(6.1%). 80-89(2.8%), more than 90(0.6%). The frequency of normal delivery, 0(155%), 1-2(36.0%), 3-4(29.2%), 5-6(13.0%). more than 7(6.3%). The rate of subjects with menopause was 40.8%. 2. It was reported that 50.7% of the subjects experienced urinary incontinence with stress, mixed. and urgency incontinence being 49.8%, 43.4%, 6.8% respectively. 3. The lower urinary symptoms and incidence with urinary incontinence were as follows : Daily frequency. 22.3%, nocturia. 40.8%, urgency, 71.2%, bladder pain 47.8%, unexplainned incontinence, 32.4%, noctural incontinence, 16.1%, and frequency of incontinence, 37.7%. In term of quantity of incontinence, drop/pants damp, 29.5%, dribble/pants wet, 20.5%, flood or soaking through to outer clothing, 1.7%, and flood or running down legs or onto floor, 0.2%. 4. The symptoms related to sexual intercourse and incidence of urinary incontinence were as follows : dry vagina, 39.1%, sex life trouble, 10.8%, pain during sexual intercourse, 27.4%, and urine leakage during sexual intercourse. 8.8%. 5. Life style problems related to urinary incontinence were as follows : fluid intake restriction, 20.0%, affected daily task, 24.5%. avoidance of placess and situations, 35.0%, interference in physical activities, 30.6%, interference in relationships with other people. 19.0%. interference in relationships with husband/companion, 8.1%, and time after attack of urinary symptoms, 76.9%. In term of the feeling about the rest of their lifves the women reported : perfectly happy, 11.3%. pleased, 16.9%. mostly satisfied, 20.2%, mixed feelings, 21.0%, mostly dissatisfied, 21.0%, very unhappy 8.5%, and desperate. 1.0%. In conclusion. this study was a preliminary study to provide nursing practices guidelines for incontinence in adult women. Nurse working with adult women should develop and provide adequate care for these women.n.

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A Relationship between Pop Art and Fashion in the 60's (1960년대 팝 아트(Pop Art)의 사조와 패션)

  • Kim Minja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.69-84
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    • 1986
  • The objective of this Paper was to identify the relationship between the fine arts, pop art and fashion in relation to its qualities, motifs, and techniques of graffiti and collage. The data of this study were collected from fashion magazines such as French Vogue and American Vogue from 1962 through 1970 and Elle from 1980, post cards and reports of costume exhibition in Victoria & Albert museum in London, and newspaper accounts and magazine accounts. The qualities of pop art were characterized as 1) Popular (designed for mass audience), 2) transient (short term solution), 3) expendable (easily forgotten), 4) low cost, 5) mass produced, 6) young (aimed at youth), 7) witty, 8) sexy and erotic, ana 9) big business. Pop art was rooted in urban environment. According to analysis of the data for this paper, these special aspects of that environment reflected on fashion in the 60's. Mary Quant, Zandra Rhodes, Y.S.L., Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges in the 60's and Castelbajac and Sprouse in the 80's showed Pop art dresses, mods fashion inspired by pop artists such as Hamilton, Donaldson, Allen Jones, Jasper Jones, Andy Wahol, and Keith Haring. New erotism of fashion was Produced by Y.S.L.'s see-through blouse, Courreges'a hipster pants, and Gernreich's bikinis which revealed the navel and the breast. T-shirts and dresses ornamented with Pop idols' faces, Pop graffitic motifs, and slogans, as a resistant to society, were begun to popular.

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