• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.15-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the location of the waistline and the width of the round belt of the basic pants. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the location of the waistline and 3 variations of the width of the belt. The data has been obtained from 35 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test and the MCA method. The visual image by the location of waistline and the width of belt are composed of 3 factors : modernity, comfort and attraction factor. In these factors, modernity factor is estimated as the most important factor. The visual image is modern and attractive as the location of waist line goes down. And when the location of waist line is in the position of natural waist belt, belt of 3.2cm width is visually effective. Belt of 4.2cm width is effective except the position of natural waist belt. The interaction effects between the location of the waistline and the width of the belt have significant differences in comfort and attraction factors. As the main effect, significant differences were observed in all of the three factors according to the location of waistline and the width of belt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The four walls of mural paintings in Afrasiab, Samarkand, have discovered: the indian-concept east wall, the west with the paintings of envoys from a number of countries bringing in King's letters or gifts, the south describing traditional ceremony celebrating the new year, the north with a picture of a Chinese princess on board beside hunting scenes. Overall, Sogdians in Afrasiab mural paintings of 7th century had following costume codes: a very short haircut or the Turkic queue, a rather-narrow-sleeved caftan with round-neck, a belt and boots. The west wall showed various costume style of a set of envoys from countries. First, a Turkic envoy had 3-6 rows of long plaits, wearing a caftan with two lapels and a belt - interestingly, Sogdian and Turkic nobles didn't wear pochettes. Second, a Chaganiyan had a hairband on his short hair, and his colorful round-neck caftan is decorated with animal-patterned medallions and a golden belt. Third, a Chach wore a jewelled hairband, putting gaiters on his pants. Forth, a Chinese was in putou with a round-neck caftan, and with a belt and sword around his waist. Lastly, also appeared a Koguryo envoy in white putou with a double-bird-feathered crown on top, wearing a long-sleeved yellow v-neck top, a belt, narrow-cuffed pants and boots. Identical to the Sogdian statues excavated in various regions of China are the appearance of big eyes and nose -similar to the warrior stone in Korea- a hairband, and a pochette down from the waist line. During this period, white and red were considered as prevailing colors for clothing: red and yellow among Turks. The costumes of characters in Afrasiab mural paintings were preferably made with the animal-patterned, sophiscated samite Zandanachi of Sogdiana.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1344-1353
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual wearing conditions of working uniform and identify problems for the aircraft mechanic. For this study, questionnaire surveys were conducted dividing according to styles of clothing; one-piece and two-piece styles. Subjects were 343 men working in flight line. Questionnaire of 159 two-piece styles and 184 one-piece ones were used in analysis. The results of the study are as follows; The result about wearing each type of working uniform showed that the two-piece one is always as the air force uniform, whereas the one-piece one is worn only a few times. They felt inconvenience during all operations except in the sitting position, crawling position, and positions in which they were using tools. Accordingly, the result of the functionality reported dissatisfaction on all question items. Therefore, uniform of two-piece style achieved better results on all questions related to motional flexibility and functionality. Questions on changes to finishing methods showed that each airline employed different methods for both two-pieced and one-pieced uniforms. The answers about the unstitched or worn-out parts of the two-piece garments showed that pants were unstitched on the inner seam of the trouser leg and hip regions, but the upper one was not. In case of the one-pieced uniform, the parts of wearing out is the seam of hip and the unstitched parts are knee region and hem line of pants. Questions concerning their satisfaction with the material of uniforms indicated a high rate of dissatisfaction, particularly in its ventilation and absorbency. Questions concerning the preferred design of working uniform indicated a preference for two-piece uniform rather than one-piece ones.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1003-1013
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• 2009

This study offers data that can be used to direct the styles of black dresses by looking into the characteristics of coordination in black fashion, which is continuously appearing at modem. fashion collections with a unique aesthetic value and image. This study examined the characteristic of fashion coordination of black color: First, to look at the fashion image of black color, second, to look at the characteristic of black color coordination appearing in black fashion, and third, to look at the method of coordination appearing in black color. This study collected and selected 560 black pictures that showed the fashion collections from 2005 S/S until 2007 F/W. As for data analysis, the researcher made a content analysis by classifying the pictures by item, material, accessory, and a coordination method. The research results are as follows: First, the fashion image of black color was expressed as sexy feminine, modern chic, modern future, genderless, and avant-garde images. Second, the fashion coordination of black color has the characteristics of sexiness and dignity by the use of body exposure, concealment, and a subdued line that expresses a modern, minimal atmosphere. The mix & match of materials expressed the monotony of one color as refined beauty and the use of accessories appeared to bring the image into relief. Third, as for the coordination method, pants on skirts, pants on dresses, piece coordination of code matching, plus- one coordination through vivid colors and accessories, and cross-over coordination relying on shape, material, and sense were prominent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.61-75
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• 2004

This paper has the meaning to plan new design of patient's cloth focusing on its aesthetic aspect through surveying actual condition of use of patient's cloth and reflecting color or pattern that patient prefers to it. Substantial purpose of this paper is 1) to survey actual condition of patient's cloth on the basis of general hospital of downtown of Busan City, 2) to revise difficulty of patient's cloth and survey and analyze color and pattern that patient prefers and 3) to suggest new patient's cloth design using color and pattern that meets function that is not difficult for patient's activity and cure and stabilizes patient's mind on the basis of the result of analysis. The result of this paper is like follow. 1. Problem of current patient's cloth is that most hospital uses patient's cloth having white background and hospital logo of blue or green color and its length is too long so it requires adjustment of length of sleeves and pants 2. The result from analyzing preferred patient's cloth is that patient prefers patient's cloth classified by man and woman, one that its length of sleeves and pants are adjusted and one that there is no collar in its neckline. Regarding color, male patient prefers mild indigo color(5PB7/7) and mild green color (5G9/2) and female patient prefers bright purple color and bright scarlet color(5YR8/7). Regarding pattern, both of man and woman prefers natural pattern. 3. This paper planned total 6 kinds of patient's cloth (common patient's cloth: 2 kinds, male patient's cloth: 2 kinds and female patient's cloth: 2 kinds) through revising difficulty and using new color and pattern according to result of preference.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.577-584
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• 2005

The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.101-110
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• 2014

In this study, we investigate characteristics of fall, requirements toward the impact protective clothing, design preferences, etc. to develop the fall impact protective clothing for the silver-aged women. Among the 242 women respondents aging 50s to 70s, 43% experienced the fall in recent 2 years. It is found that the fall mostly occurred in winter season and happened during the regular activities such as walking outside, going up and down stairs. Most of the respondents have no experience buying the impact protective clothing, but they expressed the fall impact protective clothing would help reducing the injury from falls. Moreover, the intention to purchase the impact protective clothing is increasing with an increasing target age. However, the respondents concerned with increasing volume and weight of clothing by the protecting pad inserted into the clothing. The respondents also claimed that the impact protecting clothing should not interfere with their regular physical activities. The survey showed that respondents preferred to embed the impact protective function in pants as a form of the protective clothing. For the design preferences on the pants, casual style and straight silhouette was preferred and stretch fabric was selected. The respondents preferred underwear made of cotton spandex blend with relaxed fit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.