• Title/Summary/Keyword: ornaments wear

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The Internal Deconstruction Trend Expressed in the Works of Jean Paul Gaultier (장 폴 골티에 작품에 나타난 내적 해체경향)

  • 최영옥
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.4
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    • pp.574-591
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    • 2001
  • This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

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A Study on dress and its Ornaments for farm-music (농악복식(農樂服飾)에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Suh, Ok-Kyu
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.12
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    • pp.9-23
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    • 1988
  • This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

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Low-Level Officials' Costumes as Illustrated in Tamna-Sullyeokdo at the Era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty (조선 숙종조 탐라순력도를 통해 본 하급관원 복식)

  • Lee, Joo-Young;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.6 s.115
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    • pp.172-183
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

The Analysis of Everland Cast Costume in Accordance with Its Space (테마파크 공간에 따른 에버랜드 캐스트 의상 분석)

  • Jang, JiSun;Ha, Jisoo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.6
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    • pp.1085-1099
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    • 2016
  • This article is designed to establish fundamental design criterion for theme park cast costumes in accordance with play type and space. There is an understanding that theme parks act as a play space that is designed to meet diverse playing desires. To analyze cast costumes, the theme park - 'Everland' in South Korea as an example, area was divided into attraction space and non-attraction space. Attraction space is mainly for full-scale play content areas and the non-attraction space is to enforce the attraction space experience. Roger Caillois's play theory states that there are 4 play types; Illinx, Mimicry, $Ag{\hat{o}}n$, and Alea. All 4 play types were shown through attraction and Mimicry at non-attraction. Each cast costume was analyzed in terms of apparel design elements - silhouette, textile, color, detail, and props - related to play type facility and cast role. Criteria for theme park cast costume designs were suggested based on the results. Illinx cast members who fulfill a safety-checking role wear high chroma warm color costumes with the accent on details in bodice cutting lines, collar edges, pockets, buttons and decorative ornaments. A complementary contrast is also used. The guidance cast in Illinx may wear a suit in bright/vivid color. Mimicry guidance cast costumes show meticulous perfection in imitation with the figure in its space. From head to toe, color, textile, and silhouette - every detail and even props should match the character. $Ag{\hat{o}}n$ cast costumes are strictly limited in detail and decorative ornament usage as well as in color, since they are in charge of the management and operation of a competition. Alea cast's role is a self-demonstrator. Alea cast members should be a real tarot card reader. However, a manual should control their costumes. A total of 10 cast roles at a non-attraction space should be designed to show job patterns clearly in accordance with the whole theme at the park.

"A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments - (구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Chan-Boo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.10
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

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The Study on the Chinesm on the Modern Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 차이니즘(Chinesm)에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.220-233
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to reviews the Chinesm expressed in the modern fashion world after the year 2000, and underlines the characteristics of Chinesm, as the Chinese fashion market is getting bigger and becomes the cynosure of the world. The method of this study is by research on precedence as well as related researches in Korean and foreign books. The results were as follows. First, the Chinesm recreates the historic motive which is the traditional costume, ornaments, or make-up etc. to maintain the harmony between the modernity and the past, preventing from following or mimicking. Second, the Chinesm expresses the combinational and harmonious manner with the combined image on the Chinese original symbolic factors mixing with the foreign spatial-temporal elements, the various styles of wear and decoration, and the different images to have the natural or equivocal relationship with one another. Third, The Chinesm magnifies the feminine atmosphere to express the sensual image by using effectively the traditional design factors, which is tight silhouette, coverture, and exposure. Fourth, the Chinesm professes the pro-naturalism embracing the human without conflicting with the human nature. It seems possible on the new value mixed with colors, materials, or patterns, etc.

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The Aspects of Sex Identity Expression in Contemporary Mens Fashion (현대 남성패션에 나타난 성 정체성의 표현양상)

  • 송명진;채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.327-338
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

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Types and Characteristics of the Clothes of Fur and Leather Worn by Chinese Minority Races in the Northeastern Regions of China and Inner Mongolia (동북.내몽골지역 중국소수민족이 착용한 모피와 피혁류 복식의 유형과 특성)

  • Ko, Soon-Hee;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.4
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    • pp.58-75
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of fur and leather clothes of minority races of China in Northeas and Inner Mongolia. To examine their characteristics, the clothes and ornaments were classified into four types: headwear, clothes, footwear, and accessories. First, headwear was divided into animal head-shaped, petal-shaped, round-shaped, and cone-shaped head wear. Among them, the animal head-shaped headwear was made by making the best use of the shape of animal's head and it was used as the best disguising method when hunting. Second, clothes were composed of upper garments and lower garments. For the upper garments, Po and Jeogori were worn and pants were worn for the lower garments. The clothes were decorated with lining, applique, or top-stitching on the outer collar, neck circumference, and the edge of sleeves and pants. Third, for the footwear, high boots of leather were developed to meet the needs for a convenient life in the plains. In some areas, fur shoes and leather shoes were also used. Finally, accessories included bags and gloves. Bags were usually decorated with fur on the outside or with a fringe or applique of tanned leather. Gloves were lavishly decorated with embroideries and partly with fur or leather.

Development of Hair Accessory Designs Using Royal Hair Ornaments (왕실 머리장식을 응용한 헤어 액세서리 디자인 개발)

  • Jinyoung Ryu;Jiyeon Kim
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.9 no.5
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    • pp.83-90
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    • 2023
  • The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

The Types and Transition of Kasaya since the Mid Joseon Dynasty (조선중기 이후 가사(袈裟)의 유형과 변천)

  • Kang, Sun Jung;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.2
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    • pp.17-34
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    • 2014
  • This is a theoretical and empirical study on Kasaya, the Buddhist monk's robe, which is one of the traditional Korean costumes that has kept it original form, as well as it being the most symbolic ritual costume in Buddhism. The purpose of the study is to see the different types of Kasaya, and the transitions it has gone through since Mid Joseon Dynasty. The analysis was performed after categorizing Kasaya in the following manner: layers, the way to wear, symbolism in construction, sewing, etc. Having a variety of Ilwolguangcheop(日月光貼) is a feature of Korean Red Kasaya. In the beginning, Its shape was very similar to shape of Hyungbae(胸背), and this was a royal gift and had the same meaning as an official uniform for a Buddhist monk. So designs of the Cheop(貼) could have been transformed from those of Hyungbae with a Buddhist twist. The conclusion of the study is as follows: Double layered Kasaya shows its transition from double layer to single layer. The fastening ornaments have been simplified in all materials from Yeongja(纓子). The latch type and three-paired Yeongja type transformed into hook type and one-paired Yeongja type. Color is the most common feature above all, and it is mainly in red. The form of Korean Kasaya has a significant relation with development of Buddhism. The integration of the Zen sect would have influenced the integration of Kasaya, which shows diversity throughout the period.