• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.478-485
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• 2007

This survey is about the disposition of ornament for the traditional women's Jegori and Chima in North and South Korea. And the results are as follows: Disposition of part was used a lot in Jegori and Chima by both North and South Korea. In the existence of ornament, the number and range decorated part and a type of disposition, there were the differences between North and South Korea. There were not many Chimas with ornament in South Korea, which means that South Korea focused on decorating Jegori. The number and range of decorated part in South Korea were many. Disposition type of Jegori ornament in South Korea was various but in North Korea disposition of type of Chima ornament was various. Compared to the traditional disposition, South Korea's Jegori tended to follow the traditional disposition. In case of Chima in North and South Korea and Jegori in North Korea, the proportion of traditional disposition, altered traditional disposition and modern disposition was little different.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.324-330
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is on the meaning and variety about gender expressed in modern fashion. The results are as follows ; First, the typical masculine gender was authority, discretion as a result of heteropatriarchy focused on the western reason. It was conservative and the symbolic image type of the meaning excluded masculine sexual expression. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of straight silhouette, dark color, rough and stiff material. Second, the typical feminine gender was the symbolic image type of a mother and a wife defined relatively by man as a result of western heteropatriarchy and the image type which men regarded women as sexual objects. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of silhouette which let bodily curve out, light color, soft material. The most typical item is dress and suit. Third, androgyny has been described as the feminie gender of androgynous, which shows masculine image as the effect of feminism and social success of professional women. Dress and its ornament is expressed as the style of business suit, the symple of typical man's one. The masculine gender of androgynous is showed man's suit as silhouette that let bodily curve out, light color, exposure and soft material, which is the symbol of feminine dress, Fourth, unisex is the area of dress and its ornament used the sexless symbol which there has been no gender more because of the spread of sports and diffusion of leisure in life style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.339-353
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• 2004

Purposes of this study were to analyzed coat types and characteristics of coat of young persons, and search whether fashion trend is reflected on coat. Data collected pictures that they are wearing dress in street of Daejeon city 3 places that there are much the rising generations at November, 1999. This study target was from teens latter half to 20 opening part, 154 women. Data analyzed content analysis, frequency analysis, crossing and the result is as following. First, classification standard of coat was textile fabric, form of detail and ornament. Second, coat could classify in three types, type 1 was traditional duffle coat style that is distinguished by form of detail and ornament(hood and button). Type 2 was classified property of textile fabric that used leather, padding, fur etc., and type 3 was classified by collar detail of woolen fabric coat. Specially, ornamental fur of woolen coat perceived visually strong. And design detail of coat showed significant difference in coat type. That is, duffle coat type was designed patch pocket and toggle, woolen fabric coat type was hidden button and seam pocket. Third, fashion tendency of coat was proved that is reflecting part of predicted fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.69-80
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• 2012

This research aims at the contribution to globalize and modernize the traditional Korean image by comprehending the taste of design that domestic college students have for traditional feminine head ornaments and subsequently elaborate the development of cultural products that are related to these decorative objects. In regards to this research method, the examination on the traditional feminine ornaments was followed through a review of literature and precedent studies and a survey was conducted on the preference about them. After the adoption of final valid responses, an analytical method, PASW 18.0, was used for frequency analysis, technical analysis, reliability, and regression analysis. The results were as follows. First, in the category of tendency analysis for the application of traditional feminine headpiece in fashion cultural products, it was revealed that a taste for the design that meet the satisfaction for both trend and practicability was prominently prevalent. Also, the design that express the individual characteristic was taken as a preferred option. Second, in the preference for the design of traditional feminine headpieces in fashion cultural products, the result indicated that the modern type was preferred in the form of re-creation as long as those products deform the tradition. As for the selective taste for patterns, their preference came in the order of plant, animal, and geometry-abstract types. Especially, for the case of plant and animal patterns, the reinterpreted design of modernized shapes were opted rather than a simply recopied format of the conventional type of the feminist head ornament. Third, for the category of item selection to apply the feminine head ornament in order to design the fashion cultural products, it turned out that people preferred the application to accessory rather than clothing. Lastly, it was found that rarity, harmony with other fashion goods, pattern, and design should be considered when the traditional motif was used for cultural products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the social and cultural background of hand-knitting things with handcraft feeling which is appeared conspicuously after 2000. And to analyze the types and characteristics of hand-knit design. The resorts of this study is as follows: First, it is found that the pattern of stitch in their forms and ornament technique of handcraft feeling are the remarkable factors to decide the specific designs in the most of hand-knit designs. The major forms are plain stitch, rib stitch, cable stitch, lace stitch, relief stitch and pile stitch and the ornament techniques such as patch work, fringe, embroidery and collage are being widely used. Second, after 2000, due to peoples' preference for handcraft feeling manufactures, pursuit trend of artless luxury by retouch appeared, it made feeling for recurrence of the past and the warm humanity. In addition, the pro-eco trend using pro-environment materials and capturing the nature as images are on its way to advance. Through the mix & match of materials, details and items, it becomes possible to express many kinds of images. Thanks to those characteristics, the hand-knit designs are now acknowledged as luxurious with the couture sense attached and are shaking off their previous image of recycling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.33-45
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• 2013

This work developed the basic motive design utilizing the physical beauty of the traditional ornaments used uniquely by Korean females and suggested some textile designs and fashion cultural product designs. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as well as literature examination. The motive was mainly based on the dwiggoji and ddeoljam, which are female ornaments. The formative shape in woman ornaments was classified into four kinds: plant, animal, geometry, and hybrid. The hybrid type was divided further into such combinations as plant, animal, and geometry, which came up with 8 fundamental motives for design development in total. With regard to the basic motive design, the coordinated concept was adopted with a combination of traditional taste and contemporary taste in harmony for the expression of delicate image on the condition that the basic format in female ornament is maintained. Textile design was processed with symmetry, rotation, repeat, and overlap as fundamental motive. As to the design for fashion cultural products, design mapping was proposed for neckties, handbags, clutches, shirts, and one-pieces. Utility and beauty in the traditional ornaments unique to Korean women could be recognized once again through this work. This work also assured the possibility for the endless improvement as a design development motive with originality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.672-678
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• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2002

Patterns presented at baroque were mostly floral pattern. Abstract anonymous flower, tulip, Acandus leaf, pomegranate were blended with one another and had a distinct leaning toward continuation and repetition. Components of design could be classified into flower and leaf, flower and fruit, flower and circumferential ornament, bunch of flowers, flower and pot, flower and geometry, and flower and animal. Floral patterns in this era were mostly fullness type being large, simple, and having more formalized motive and were fronted with unit type and vine shape. Unit type shows reflection of baroque style which aims to present absolute unification rather than freedom, which was inherent property of baroque style, by using symmetric pattern. Vine type were unfolded with C type curved line which was main characteristics of that time and showed flowage as a whole and pliable beauty. Floral pattern was filled the whole surface of fabric, thus background of fabric can not be discerned. So, it showed extreme decorative tendency and lavishness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.485-492
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Cone shaped Pendants in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. These Cone shaped Pendants are made of bronze and coated with gold plate or Gold. Each Cone shaped Pendants consists of a Sehwhan(細環) type or Taewhan type, a median part in the form of a several joined small globe, or circular shape, and finally a cone-shared pendant. Cone shaped Pendants is 5 part(A-L A-b, B-1-a, B-1-b, B-2-b type) in according to the styles of the Sehwhan(細環) and Taewhan type and median ornament types. A-a, A-b, B-1-a, B-1-b type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae, ancient Silla. B-2-b type was excavated from the only Kokuryo tombs.