• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권2호
• /
• pp.245-264
• /
• 2020

This study identifies Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun as actor-networks with cultural values and meanings. It analyzes the process of reorganizing their works into Korean orientalism via an action of co-construction with formative techniques. First, the historical context of orientalism formed in the fashion world will be studied, followed by the design characteristics of orientalism, and the correlation between the Korean orientalism of these designers on the world stage influenced by the globalization discourse of Korean tradition since the 1980s. Next, works of Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun from 2000 to 2012 will be analyzed, revealing aspects of Korean image reproduction. Consequently, this study finds that the Korean image is restructured socio-culturally through technological imagery as a reproduction of reality by the production subject. This study reminds us of the reflective and cultural meaning of fashion designers in the area of image reproduction, sociocultural practice, and materials and technology.

• 복식
• /
• 제43권
• /
• pp.259-282
• /
• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제12권3호
• /
• pp.62-71
• /
• 2008

Costume elements are closely related with human living environment and also play an important role in the costume patterns. The East and the West have influenced and adopted each other's culture through mutual trade, which are well reflected in costume patterns and textile patterns. These days world wide fashion shows the designs applying costume details of the East and the West, which is much affected by the orientalism. The purpose of this study is to compare the sleeve patterns which take an important part in women's costume design of the Joseon Dynasty and the European Monarchy in the 16th century. Korean women's costume showed sleeves in rectangular shape with same width and long length, together with cuffs. Later they changed to diagonal shape of getting narrower toward the wrist. Western women's costume showed sleeves with puff and slash patterns. Then they were classified into French, British and Spanish styles which were getting narrower toward the wrist. Later they adopted the shape of leg of mutton which was puffed in middle and narrower toward the wrist. I n Korea and Europe, they showed respective changes in sleeve patterns, but also similarity of getting narrower toward the wrist. The East and the West are now exchanging their culture in every aspect such as politics, economics and social matters. Costume fashion is not an exception. The characteristic designs of traditional costumes are shown on global fashion, which is influenced by the orientalism.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권5호
• /
• pp.443-452
• /
• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제4권4호
• /
• pp.55-70
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new orientalism fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the art of the Tang dynasty, China. Tang dynasty has high culture, economy, polity and art. Also the character of Tang's culture is very international. Therefore that point is coincide with fusion culture in the early 2000's. As a method of accomplishing this research, the documents and fashion magazines related to the art and fashion were examined. Through analyzing the art in the Tang's related to fusion culture, reach a conclusion that the modern fashion has four characters. 1. The cause of high culture and economy, the trend of fashion was decorative 2. The cause of realism, the trend of fashion were modern and simple. 3. The cause of rhythmical line, the trend of fashion had natural drape. 4. The cause of globalism, the trend of fashion mixed east with west This research keep going for showing new orientalism and coinciding with 21th century's trend.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권2호
• /
• pp.20-31
• /
• 2011

Decentralization is an effort to liberalize people from its character of neutralizing or restraining people while indwelling in the previous thought system. Decentralization in fashion is one of the phenomenon of post-modernism fashion, and it is closely related to de-culturalism, crossover, abolition of rank, and etc, and it is in line with Asian look which includes orientalism fashion. The study intends to consider the Phenomenon of Decentralization of Asian Look and its Method depicted in the western fashion. The study focuses on documentary data, and the it is held with the basis of Asian look shown in western fashion. If ideology which influenced the formation of folk costume of Asia, Asian look is the dissolution of such ideology, and post-modern amusement is substituting it. The most conspicuous characteristic of decentralization phenomena of Asian look is pastiche which is a combination and reallocation of external style of many cultural zones and many folk costumes, and it shows mutual irrelevance, and it is a neutral imitation which has internal meaning and humor disappeared. Also, Asian look shows characteristics of parody and irony, which are reversal characteristics of aesthetic value which is expressed through methods of addition, modification, distortion, exaggeration, inversion, dissolution, and etc. Parody which is expressed through imitation regarding previous style shows effect of humor or satire, but its characteristics show that it expresses respect or admiration regarding the original The method of irony is showing sarcasm with ironical method regarding the peculiar style of Asian folk costume, and it pursues unexpected shock and joy, and it is closely related to orientalism fashion. Expansion and constancy of Asian look reflects the interest regarding folk of Asia and Asia, and it is a movement which intends new attempt by abolishing stereotype, and furthermore, it is expressing liberty of humans.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
• /
• pp.326-327
• /
• 2004

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 복식문화학회 2004년도 International Conference
• /
• pp.32-35
• /
• 2004

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권2호
• /
• pp.280-291
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

• 복식
• /
• 제53권2호
• /
• pp.137-151
• /
• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.