• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.131-139
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• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1429-1441
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• 2010

This study examines the post-national trends of the $21^{st}$ century fashion that has embraced multiculturalism. This study conducted a literature view to explore the concept of multiculturalism and the background of post-national phenomena appearing in contemporary fashion. In addition, as a case study, the author used local and foreign fashion magazines and collections published between 2000 and 2009, in addition to other related materials available on the Internet. The objective was to analyze photographic materials in which post-national features are reflected. From this study, the post-national trends in $21^{st}$ century fashion that adopted multiculturalism are as follows: The first is that oriental culture is more actively embraced. In the past, the tendency of embracing the oriental culture was mainly developed with a focus on China and Japan, but recently the tendency has spread to Southeast Asian countries and national/ethnic minorities that include Mongolians and Tibetans that is present in more active ways that reflect oriental sentiment and philosophy as well as adopts simple images. Second, $21^{st}$ century fashion based on multiculturalism broadens the interest in the understanding of nations in the regions of Africa, Middle East, and South America and uses regional folk costumes or indigenous characteristics to create new things instead of staying within a fixed paradigm. Third, as horizontal transfer is involved in ways of looking at culture, $21^{st}$ century fashion shows a post-national tendency to use regional cultures and folk costumes of the occidental world that includes North and West Europe in addition to non-mainstream regions (as considered so far). Fourth, dress elements of many heterogeneous national cultures are combined to create multinational images difficult to define in terms of a specific national culture or clothing style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.21-36
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• 2016

The purposes of this study were to find out how the characteristics of Chinoiserie in the perspective of the West have influenced on the contemporary womens' fashion. 440 pieces of photo data for this study were collected, focusing on Paris collections as a fashion capital of Europe, for the period of 10 years from 2005 through 2014. The results of this study are as follows. The impacts of Chinoiserie have increased consistently since 2009. The reasons for the increased impacts are assumed that the influence of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion rekindled it, as the worldwide attentions to China have been growing since Beijing Olimpic, Aug. 2008. Reviewing by seasons, the trend of Chinoiserie has been more distinct in F/W season comparing with S/S season except year 2007 and 2011. Considering the results of analysis for each designer, Leonard and Shiatzy Chen, the designers of Chinese-origin, appeared to apply the characteristics of Chinoiserie on the contemporary fashion most successfully, while European designers, such as Dries Van Noten, Valentino, and Jean Paul Gaultier, also appeared to accommodate actively the design styles of Chinoiserie in their fashions. Moreover the Asian designers, such as Aesuro Tayama, Andrew GN, and Kenzo, had been using Chinoiserie as a means of providing oriental ambience. The results of this study would be helpful to design and plan the fashion items which are scheduled to enter Chinese markets by Korean designer brands and fashion enterprises. In addition, it is considered that these results would help Chinese designers understand the design characteristics of Chinoiserie which have evoked empathy of people all around the world, when they make Western stage debut in the future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.49-56
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• 1998

This study is on the fashion design of velve, concentrating on the kinds and the images of it. The velvet, the pile fabrics, includes velveteen, velour(s), corduroy and plush. Ancient Chinese invented it first but Westerners used it widely in fashion since 14C because of the deep colors and the glimmering lights. In 20C the developments of textile industry, the mass production and the dyeing techniques made it popularized as velvet fashion. The velvet must be handled carefully and stretch velvet in vogue today needs the different pattern design and the dressmaking from general fabrics. 'For example, 55 size (bust girth 33", waist girth 26", hip girth 36") Jacket for ladies of stretch velvet, 3/4"ease in the bust line is eliminated at the back on the block pattern after normal pattern design. The costume of velvet has the images of elegance, nostalgia, and oriental ism. It has established the high quality, rich and refined elegance of Haute Couture. It could express the image of nostalgia, the longing for the past with the remarkable splendor. The orientalism of velvet costumes has represented the westerner's aspiration and imagination about the Orient with the intense color and over-decoration.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.565-577
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• 1999

In this world of globalism, achieving the winning position in the competitive international market is essential in the area of fashion industry. For this reason, we should accomplish this task by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modern fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional style. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the fashion design works of the active Korean fashion designer, Sul Yoon-Hyung, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modern fashion design with the traditional motives. In order to study this research subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the textile motives used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, ELLE, WWD, and Fashion Today during the last seven years(1993-1999). The collected research data, 68 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the categories of Korean traditional motives they were adapted from, the application techniques, and the aesthetic characteristics. As a result of the study, it was found that Sul Yoon-Hyung has adapted different kinds of Korean traditional motives including motives borrowed from the nature such as flowers and animals, geometrical forms, and Chinese letters with different specific symbolic meanings for each motif and many different techniques were utilized to apply these motives. It was apparent to note that the Korean traditional motives were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modern sense.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.470-480
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• 2003

This study looks upon the borderless phenomenon of genres and at the disintegration of boundaries in fashion, the current 'borderless trend', and analyze modern men's fashion having borderless phenomenon under social changes and disclose current men's fashion. The borderless phenomenon of men's fashion declines traditional image of gender and expresses modern men's images strongly in accordance with social changes: Thus, in modern days, men's images have changed from muscular men having show-off and superiority to women-like men having pearly skin and slender figure. Men's fashion also looked for feminization to let men like make-up, beauty salon, cosmetic surgery and women-like hair style, etc. Men have been also given women's sexy and sensual beauty to put on innerwear as an outerwearization. The Influx and mixing of mutually different cultures is expressed in Hippie, Ethnic, Oriental trends. Mutually opposing country's factors mix so that a new culture is established. Also, the sharing of fashions amongst younger and older generation has occurred for reasons that are similar to the reasons above.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.