• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.12-16
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• 2009

In this study, the wave profiles and kinematics of highly nonlinear waves at various water depths were calculated using a 2D fully nonlinear Numerical Wave Tank (NWT). The NWT was developed based on the Boundary Element Method (BEM) with the potential theory and the mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian (MEL) time marching scheme by 4th-order Runge-Kutta time integration. The spatial variation of intermediate-depth waves along the direction of wave propagation was caused by the unintended generation of 2nd-order free waves, which were originally investigated both theoretically and experimentally by Goda (1998). These free waves were induced by the mismatch between the linear motion of wave maker and nonlinear displacement of water particles adjacent to the maker. When the 2nd-order wave maker motion was applied, the spatial modulation of the waves caused by the free waves was not observed. The respective magnitudes of the nonlinear wave components for various water depths were compared. It was found that the high-order wave components greatly increase as the water depth decreases. The wave kinematics at various locations were calculated and compared with the linear and the Stokes 2nd-order theories.

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
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• 제20권11호
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• pp.1950-1960
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• 2006

Based on Banach fixed point theorem, a method to calculate nonlinear superposition for three interacting Stokes' waves is proposed in this paper. A mathematical formulation for the nonlinear superposition in deep water and some numerical solutions were investigated. The authors carried out the numerical study with three progressive linear potentials of different wave numbers and succeeded in solving the nonlinear wave profiles of their three wave-interaction, that is, using only linear wave potentials, it was possible to realize the corresponding nonlinear interacting wave profiles through iteration of the method. The stability of the method for the three interacting Stokes' waves was analyzed. The calculation results, together with Fourier transform, revealed that the iteration made it possible to predict higher-order nonlinear frequencies for three Stokes' waves' interaction. The proposed method has a very fast convergence rate.

• 한국음향학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.250-260
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• 2003

수중에서 기포는 비선형성이 강한 음향 산란체로서 수중 기포들로부터 산란된 음파들은 강한 비선형 음향특성을 보인다. 입사 음파의 산란된 음파들은 기본 주파수에서뿐만 아니라 배진동 또는 고차진동 주파수들에서도 관측된다. 서로 다른 주파수의 두 음파가 기포에 입사되는 경우, 산란된 음파들은 입사 음파들의 합 및 차주파수에서도 관측될 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 수중에 형성된 기포막에 두 음파가 입사되는 경우, 기포의 비선형성에 의해 차주파수 음파의 진폭이 증폭되고 두 입사 음파의 전파방향으로 지향성이 나타남을 관측하였다. 산란된 차주파수 음파의 지향성은 일차 음원의 지향성을 사용하여 가상음원에 대한 결맞음 산란특성으로 해석하였다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.201-213
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• 2014

Wave run-up is an important issue in offshore engineering, which is tightly related to the loads on the marine structures. In this study, a series of physical experiments have been performed to investigate the wave run-up around a vertical cylinder in transitional water depth. The wave run-ups of regular waves, irregular waves and focused waves have been presented and the characteristics in frequency domain have been investigated with the FFT and wavelet transform methods. This study focuses on the nonlinear features of the wave run-up and the interaction between the wave run-up and the cylinder. The results show that the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the structures might result wave run-up components of higher frequencies. The wave run-ups of the moderate irregular waves exhibit 2nd order nonlinear characteristics. For the focused waves, the incident waves are of strong nonlinearity and the wavelet coherence analysis reveals that the wave run-up at focal moment contains combined contributions from almost all the frequency components of the focused wave sequence and the contributions of frequency components up to 4th order harmonic levels are recommended to be included.

• Korean Journal of Mathematics
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.11-27
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• 2015

Nonlinear partial differential equations are more suitable to model many physical phenomena in science and engineering. In this paper, we consider three nonlinear partial differential equations such as Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation which serves as a model for the unidirectional propagation of the shallow water waves over a at bottom. The main objective in this paper is to apply the generalized Riccati equation mapping method for obtaining more exact traveling wave solutions of Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation. More precisely, the obtained solutions are expressed in terms of the hyperbolic, the trigonometric and the rational functional form. Solutions obtained are potentially significant for the explanation of better insight of physical aspects of the considered nonlinear physical models.

• Computers and Concrete
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.179-199
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• 2016

The aim of this study is to investigate arrival direction effects of travelling waves on non-linear seismic response of arch dams. It is evident that the seismic waves may reach on the dam site from any direction. Therefore, this study considers the seismic waves arrive to the dam site with different angles, ${\theta}=0^{\circ}$, $15^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}$, $60^{\circ}$, $75^{\circ}$, and $90^{\circ}$ for non-linear analysis of arch dam-water-foundation interaction system. The N-S, E-W and vertical component of the Erzincan earthquake, on March 13, 1992, is used as the ground motion. Dam-water-foundation interaction is defined by Lagrangian approach in which a step-by-step integration technique is employed. The stress-strain behavior of the dam concrete is idealized using three-dimensional Drucker-Prager model based on associated flow rule assumption. The program NONSAP is employed in response calculations. The time-history of crest displacements and stresses of the dam are presented. The results obtained from non-linear analyses are compared with that of linear analyses.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.147-158
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• 2012

A time-domain simulation of a land-based Oscillating Water Column (OWC) with various irregular waves as a form of PM spectrum is performed by using a two-dimensional fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the potential theory, mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian (MEL) approach, and boundary element method. The nonlinear free-surface condition inside the OWC chamber was specially devised to describe both the pneumatic effect of the time-varying pressure and the viscous energy loss due to water column motions. The quadratic models for pneumatic pressure and viscous loss are applied to the air and free surface inside the chamber, and their numerical results are compared with those with equivalent linear ones. Various wave spectra are applied to the OWC system to predict the efficiency of wave-energy take-off for various wave conditions. The cases of regular and irregular waves are also compared.

• 한국해안해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해안해양공학회 1998년도 정기학술강연회 발표논문 초록집 Annual Meeting of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• pp.5-11
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• 1998

Wave nonlinearity and dispersivity have mutually counteracting effects on the wave evolution process; i.e., the former makes the wave profile steeper, while the latter milder. Therefore to describe evolution of nonlinear water waves under general condition such as nonlinear random waves over arbitrary depths, both the wave nonlinearity and dispersivity must be properly taken into account in the wave modeling. (omitted)

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.429-438
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• 2005

본 연구에서는 Boussinesq 방정식을 이용하여, 불규칙 파랑의 직접적인 해석이 가능한 한 쌍의 상미분방정식을 유도하였다. 입사파랑은 TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) 천해 스펙트럼을 이용하여 재현하였으며, 지배방정식은 4차 Runge-Kutta 법을 이용하여 적분하였다. 새로 유도된 파랑 방정식을 이용하여, 일정 수심을 진행하는 파랑의 비선형 에너지 교환효과를 계산하였다. 또한, 일정 경사면의 정현파형 지형을 통과하는 불규칙파랑의 특성에 관해 수치적으로 검토하였다. 비선형성이 불규칙파랑의 통과와 반사에 큰 영향을 주었다.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.