• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.583-599
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze movie costume of main character and find design characteristic and historical spirit focusing on the movie, in which Ishioka Eiko, Japanese movie costume designer constructing unique design world, participated. The study captured images of three movies such as , and with Digital Multimedia Converting System and analyzed them by focusing on the pictures showing designer's intention and design characteristic well among acquired 319 pictures. The costumes addressing movie costume designer's sense of values are recreated as future-oriented new works and are expressed as creative costumes by acquiring inspiration from past factors, dissolving them and applying up-to-date technology. Movie costume shall reflect historical spirit of our age as movie shows social cultural trend including fashion trend of manufactured age. Ishioka Eiko has searched for the design, which is proper for three principles such as 'be unique', 'be eternal' and 'be innovative' and from the result of analyzing movie costume, it is found that she showed characteristics of symbolism(transmission of the sensitivity), ornamentalism(effective representation as a decorative effect attention) and multiculturalism(harmony of time and culture) as well as uniqueness. The movie costume are different mutually and create new hybrid culture, in which different costume cultures are mixed with current costumes without the restriction to other culture. It is proper for the age of globalization and localization so it is expected that the multiculturalism will be enlarged more.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

In a contemporary fashion along with the advance of high technology, development of a new material is being increasingly emphasized and the need of creative convergence using a computer is being expanded. As a global designer who appeared through association between Japan and the West, Issey Miyake has been continually pursuing a new challenge and a solution using high technology, leading the globalization of Japanese fashion. This research aims at examining design characteristics of Issey Miyake collection's A-POC showing a new paradigm, that is, an innovative clothing manufacture system to input information on materials, colors and shapes into a textile machine based on the computer program and manufacture a cylindrical fabric for completion of seamless clothing without sewing or cutting. A-POC is evolving continually through the development of new materials including recycled fibers and organics together with diversification of processing technology. Besides, it shows design characteristics including an integrated manufacturing method, autonomy for customers' selection, practicality for comfortable wearing by the majority, environment friendly idea to reduce waste of fabrics and materials and a new presentation through convergence of exhibition concepts of modern art. This research on Issey Miyake's A-POC characteristics is expected to present a role of fashion designers in a new design idea and paradigm of contemporary clothing using high technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.78-87
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• 2003

Based on the qualitative analysis regarding five dominant characteristics of fashion in the transitional period of the 21s1 century, subsequent quantitative analysis was conducted and the following results were obtained. First, it was found that 85% of the clothes analyzed showed these five characteristics. Secondly, among the five characteristics, the new-naturalism shows the most significant trend and neo-retro was also found as one of the leading features along with the new-naturalism in the transitional period of the 21 st century. However, the frequency of technicism is less than was expected. Thirdly, analysis of the distribution of fashion characteristics according to fashion designers and seasonal changes show that new-naturalism, neo-retro and hybrid spread relatively evenly among each designer. The quantitative study confined the results obtained through the qualitative study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.793-809
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• 2013

This study examined the trend and aesthetic value of image fashion of the 21st century through empirical case study with image media as fashion communication tool. This research is intended to provide the basic material for both better comprehension of image fashion as emotional medium in the modern fashion and more activated research on interactivity and communication in the fashion communication area by examining how fashion designers deliver their design philosophy, thought and vision via image fashion. For the research method, the theoretical study was realized about image media and fashion communication with focus on related literature and precedent research. Also, the empirical study was performed about image fashion covering 2005 through 2012 by the group of fashion film, fashion animation, and video look-book. Fashion image in the research was developed into various layouts that include the story based or non-story based creative images, many kinds of episode or behind-the-scenes story in the prep course of collection, designer's personal life or product world, or re-cutting course after collection. It also played a communicative role for public relation of new product ad, concept conveyance of seasonal collections, means as online collection to substitute for the existing offline collections, and better understandings of designer or fashion brand. Aesthetic values derived from case analysis of image fashion in the modern fashion of 21st century appeared in the form of trans-boundary as convergence art, fantasy in harmony with virtuality and reality, and interactivity among the humans, image media and fashions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.5-16
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• 1996

In today's fashion Street is a birthplace of new generation fashion and Street Fashion have frequently influenced on high fashion. From this view point this study is a meaningful approach to forecast future fashion trend by examining the street style of youth who are regarded as Street Fashion leaders. The purpose of this study is to examine the Youth Fashion style in early 1990s and to pro-vide a reference to fashion designer and mer-chandiser in trend forecasting and product plan-ning. This study is focused on 1990s Youth Fashion style through the historical Street Fashion : 1950s Teddy boys & Mods 1960s Hippies & Skinhead and 1970s Punk. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. One is grunge fashion created by new gener-ation in opposition to existing generation society and impacting on hish fashion leaders. The other is Remix style that is mixed : sub culture fashion originated by young group in 1950-1970s with 1990s sensitivity. Both fashion styles origionated and led by youth of street have influenced on famous high fashion designeres as well as the general public. Street Fashion will continue to play an import-ant role in future fashion and more study and interest on Street Fashion should be taken by fashion forecaster and related.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.253-266
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• 2019

Street fashion style expressing youth culture has become mainstream in the fashion field. Russian fashion designers who experienced the post-Soviet era in their youth have gained attention for the freshness of a youth inspiration. This study selected two representative young Russian fashion designers, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Tigran Avetisyan and analyzed their fashion works concerning characteristics of youth culture. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subject of the case studies were Gosha Rubchinskiy's fashion works from 2015 S/ S to 2018 F/W and Tigran Avetisyan's fashion works from the 2012 CSM Fashion Show to 2018 F/W. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, their fashion works express 'resistance' against the older generation and society. Second, we can also see the 'conformity' of the use to make a strong cohesion. Third, the fashion works symbolized an 'expression of individuality' of the youth. Fourth, the fashion works express an 'importance of practicality' related to the values of the young who prefer to high cost-effectiveness goods. Last, there is a 'remixed culture' in the Russian designer's works where a previously mixed culture mixes with others in creating a completely new one. This study analyzed the characteristics of a contemporary youth culture that influenced the world fashion market and contributed to understanding that the young generation is active in all aspects of society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.126-139
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• 2009

The following study from the perspective that the identity of a brand is determined by the creative work of the designer, will review the design identity of fashion house, which have maintained a basic concept of couture house until recently. For this purpose, first, the concepts of fashion house and identity could be examined, and then the design identity of both the past couture designer and the present house designer could be comparatively analyzed. This study focused on John Galliano of Dior, and was carried out under the method of document study and case study. Based on this, the analytic results of the design identity of fashion houses are as follows. The design identity of fashion house, which has its origins in the past couture house, appears from the house characteristics, design characteristics and the design image. The original design identity of Dior House seems to be feminism and elegant extravagance, which naturally models the body line of women into diverse lines. The new design identity of Dior House by Galliano, while reflecting wit and fantasy, at the same time is expressed as sexy and romantic elegance which attempts to express the beauty of modern women. The pursue of chic elegance, which is the characteristic of early Dior design, have changed into avant garde and unique designs with tendencies of multi-culturalism due to the most recent house designers. Finally, Dior house design has successfully maintained the master of handcrafted quality based on craftsmanship, the history from the house archive, and the modern trends appropriately added by the creativity of Galliano.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate gather as decoration techniques of clothes. In this study, we defined 21st century as the modern fashion. And analyzed design that applied gather concerned with Milan, New York, London, Paris, Tokyo Woman's Collections. Data were used from Fashion News and Gap Press Magazine (2001-2004). The results of this study were as follows: 1. Gather was the most original techniques among decoration techniques of clothes and formed three-dimensional space. 2. There were many kinds of gather such as cluster gather, all gather, shirring, smoking, frill, flounce, ruffle. and it gave a different impression with Fabrics, cutting method, sewing method, parts that were used. 3. Gather had practical functions providing enough space in activity and was presented as new shape by three-dimension body motion when it was put on. 4. After analyzing design that applied gather showed in collections, there were various appearance according to designer's sensitivity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

This research was analyzed regarding comparing features of expressions between clothes in movie, , and cyber clothes that were made by Marvelous Designer2 which is a design CAD. This research was studied to experiment an expressing possibility of clothes simulation software which was developed currently. Therefore, we picked clothes that are good at movement and detail in the movie. The dress theory of the renaissance which is the period background of movie, was considered and studied as pattern, silhouette, material, color, detail and animation. The movie's dresses are made with 3D virtual and compared so 3D virtual clothes's benefits and weaknesses can be analyzed. As a result, we found that 3D virtual dress can show the real movie's feature accordingly with current developed IT standard. This will assist a development in fashion industry and become a new indicator for 3D movie clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.71-82
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is how to find the way of activating Korean fashion industry, by reviewing the accomplishments of British young designers, Hussein Chalayan, who are contributors to the present peak activities of British fashion. Some results come over this depressive state of Korean fashion might be proposed. Firstly, Korean government should try to direct the Korean fashion associated group to make the unified and effective results in an organized way. Secondly, Korean fashion industries and university-level fashion school should have more intimate relationship and be closely communicated with each other. Also the fashion school should watch their curriculum. and change it gradually to the up-todate one. Thirdly, the Korean new generation designers should do effort to have the highest tailoring technique and artistic good sense. Finally, the designer should have broad range of knowledge for their design. In conclusion, the government, university-level fashion schools, fashion industries and fashion designers should be positively changed and cooperated to do the best and activate Korean fashion.