• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.705-715
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• 2020

The domestic fashion industry of the middle and late 20th century emphasized the importance of a standardized design process; however, the values of differentiated brand individuality have become increasingly important with the qualitative·quantitative growth of designer brands. Therefore, paying attention to designer individuality (or a differentiated element of a designer brand growing up in the domestic fashion industry) this study reestablished factors of the designer brand individuality. An in-depth interview was conducted with 13 designers and consumers for empirical analysis. In order to identify concepts of designer individuality based on the theory of the brand personality by Aaker along with precedent studies, the study devised a theoretical frame to explain a conceptual structure of designer brand individuality as well as reestablish its factors as the designer individuality, design and non-design factors through empirical research. Empirical research derived the designer individuality factors as an external designer image, designer taste, design philosophy and designer personality. Design factors were derived as concept, working process and method, style and formativeness. Non-design factors were also extracted as wearing experience, wearer image, lookbook image, fashion shows and exhibitions. It is meaningful that little empirical research has been conducted on domestic fashion designers who actually run designer brands and that this study helped understand designer brands through a new approach called designer individuality.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.65-83
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to explore the dynamics of the newly emerging designer fashion market and examine how startup designers reacted to the tension between creativity and business, and how they grew within such dynamics. In-depth interviews were conducted with 22 DFE entrepreneurs and 7 fashion industry experts. The grounded theory was used to analyze data and yield results. Korean new generation of DFEs, attracted by the growing online market opportunities are directly distributing through online channels, targeting the millennial consumers who are pursuing new values at new distribution channels. They show new growth pattern, start with a few key items in the middle and lower price segments, then upscale their design, quality, and price. This study further investigated designers' enterprise orientation shift, which was explored by Mills. Some creativity-oriented designers encountered difficulties in the orientation shift, while designers who demonstrated business characteristics from the startup stage restored the balance by trying to improve both creativity and business. This study discovered a new way for the designer to enter the growth stage. This growth approach is one of the success strategies applicable to designers launching a brand on online platforms in the global market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.838-851
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• 2015

This study explores the level of designer brands' market oriented attitude through a conceptual framework of market orientation. Designer brands have rapidly increased in the Korean fashion market with a competitive environment that pushes designers to improve market oriented attitudes and strategy. Designers working for 20 brands that the government designated as 'promising creative designer brands' were invited for in-depth interviews, 19 designers from 18 brands participated in this study. The generation of market intelligence that composes market orientation meant that the designers were confirmed to collecting different types of information according to information sources. They showed interest in collecting information on the exploration of design trends from overseas designers as well as operational and managerial information from domestic designers. Fashion-related stakeholders mainly collected feedback on design concepts from the press and public institutions. They collected customer feedback from buyers; however, appropriate feedback was inadequate. Designers generally appeared to place less value on the collection of customer responses and opinions; however, two groups of designers showed customer-oriented attitudes according to accumulated experience. The market-oriented attitude of top designers had an important role in designer brands; consequently, top designers should be properly trained to improve market-oriented attitudes to increase market performance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.132-149
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• 2016

With the increased importance of design creativity in global fashion marketplaces, there have arisen numerous promotional strategies for new fashion designers in Korea, yet little research has been done on this subject. This study examines the new fashion design promotion policies in Korea and their effects from the designer's perspective. First, we analyzed the contents of twenty-one strategies from thirteen organizations regarding the types of support from the strategies. As a result, four distinct types are identified: new designer recognition; information and consulting support; brand incubating; and marketing support. Next, we performed in-depth one-on-one interviews with eleven designers who had been awarded from one or more of the fashion design incubation policies. The results reveal that the incubating policies' cash rewards and space support are found to be most effective. In terms of the revised fashion and brand consulting policy, "brand operation" had an influence. In addition, fashion the new brand advertisement and marketing policy had positively influenced the "brand development." However, throughout the interview, designers note that the quality of education and information provisions need some improvement. Furthermore, the designers indicate the lack of supervision and professionalism from the marketing departments. Based on this content, this study emphasizes the necessity of an effective fashion design promotion policy, and strategic and consistent support for the whole fashion promotion team. At the minimum, an integrated and united supervision by the organization is necessary and should be taken into consideration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.53-68
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• 1999

Water allows us to have artistic experiences of searching for the source of hints and techniques by bring about the emergence of the new representation new themes and new forms of arts. The water that holds a great deal of hidden meaning shape the image. This study attempted to investigate what mental relationship the concept of water had the mental phenomenon of water in hea-sang-kun-sun-do in terms of the event of contemporary fashion in the present-day age. This means the stream of thought to grope a new paradign of multi-cultruism that claims the coexistence of East and West civilizations in the contemporary civilization. The meaning of water is developed fabrics connected with the water and the water emerge the issue in contemporary fashion. And the concept of water as the meaning concept is used as the tool to represent a certain issue in silhouette and fabrics not only the introduction as substantial water into fashion giving the fashion designer's emotion to shape and representing the fashion designer's aesthetic needs by emphasizing with the designer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.155-166
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.77-91
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• 2001

Remembering a meaning of fashion started in the early 20C, Paul Poiret is one of the most important designer. If so, what does his achievements and assessment his costume design have to be？ That is the spirit of his design. Through the creation of the new style which is totally different from a period before, introduction of the vivid color, the new line and the enthusiasm of the fashion business, he showed the roll and the possibility of the modern designer. In Poiret's women's costume, harmonious beauty of women could be discovered in beautiful color which was not used in the 19th and elegance line. Furthermore, in the creation of the color and style, he got a strong influence by the art of early 20C's Europe. This was an opportunity that todays fashion has treated as a part of the or her art, and many modern designers are contacting with the art. The excellent ability in the fashion business has the composite as total fashion. Fashion business including perfumes, cosmetics furnitures, accessories is a model for most designers who follows him.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.87-99
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• 2006

For comprehending the duties of fashion designer, Sharon(1989) has suggested to look at the procedure how the goods are being produced. The purpose of this research is to identify the task of domestic fashion designer by comparing and analyzing one's work range and performing level in the fashion merchandising process according to the brand types which one is involved in. The preliminary research for the questionnaire was conducted with 5 chief designers of woman's apparel manufactures in Seoul. They were asked to judge if designer's tasks fit to their carry-out operations in the pre-fixed questionnaire which had been done based on preliminary researches and literatures related with fashion merchandising process. The contents of research questionnaire are 11 questions to understand the general characteristics of companies and the participated subjects, and 42 questions to understand the designers' operations. For the selection of NB, among 503 domestic female apparel brands that were in 'Korean Textile Fashion yearbook (2002-2003), the companies that were located in Seoul and possible for cooperation by researcher's personal relationship were selected. For DB, cooperation was requested for brands that were located in Seoul among the 137 brands that participates on Domestic Collection. For GB, 50 stores were selected at random or by personal relationship among 32 GB shops such as Freya Town, Doosan Tower, New Zone, and so on. Total 300 questionnaire distributed to the designers, 192 copies were used for final data analysis. For data analysis, descriptive statistics and ANOVA, Sceffe test were used using SPSS V. 11 1. The participated fashion designers operated 41 categories of suggested 42 categories in the fashion merchandising process. 2. The ranges and contents of tasks in the fashion merchandising process that fashion designers mainly carry-out are very different according to the brand types and showed much different level of task carry-out. Only in the categories of 'fashion trend information' and 'design ideation', all three brand type showed the highest level of task performance. And the design related tasks presented common higher level of performance than the other tasks in all brand types. In order to comprehend the operation of fashion designer, various approaching methods are required according to various apparel manufactures' characteristics.