• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.157-164
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze bust point information presented in literature and the 8th Korean Anthropometric Survey (Size Korea 2021) as a basis for pattern making for Korean adult women. Therefore, the the bust point position was analyzed through the length from the side neckline to the bust point and the horizontal length from the bust point to the chest. The results are as follows. First, Size Korea's population shows an increase in bust circumference and Side Neck Point to Bust Point with age, with the largest Bust-Point Breadth in the 30s, followed by the 20s, 40s, 60s, and 50s. Second, the Bust-Point Breadth in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created from the bust circumference measurements of Size Korea's population, was wider than the measurements, and the difference was verified as a highly significant. Third, in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee created with the bust circumference dimensions of Size Korea's population, the length of Neck Point to Bust Point was shorter than the measured value, and the difference was highly significant. Fourth, the Bust-Point Breadth and Neck Point to Bust Point in the female Basic Bodice pattern of Kang Soon-hee, and Oh Sun-hee, which were created with the bust circumference of the population of Size Korea by age, were analyzed in different age groups and showed significant differences from the measurements of Size Korea.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.45-60
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• 2024

This study analyzes the athleisure wear purchase status, wearing conditions, and design preferences of men in their 20s and 30s and provides basic data for the development of men's athleisure wear that reflects consumer preferences. An online survey was conducted on 200 men from August 23 to August 27, 2023. The questionnaire consisted of a total of 48 questions, including 8 questions about the respondent's general information, 19 questions about the purchase status of athleisure wear, 6 questions about the status of wearing athleisure wear, and 15 questions about athleisure wear design preferences. The survey results are as follows. The most common motive for exercise participation was 'maintaining health.' 'Nike' was the most preferred and purchased brand among athleisure wear brands, and the main place of purchase of athleisure wear was 'Internet and mobile shopping malls', reflecting the recent purchasing trend of the MZ generation. When purchasing athleisure wear, the most common selection criterion was 'design', followed by 'fitting comfort', 'possibility to use as daily wear', and 'price'. The most common route to obtain purchase information was 'Internet search', and the 'overall satisfaction' with athleisure wear was found to be satisfactory with an average of 3.83. The most common reason for wearing athleisure wear was 'because it is comfortable to do activities', followed by 'because it can be used as everyday wear'. Lastly, 'black', 'short-sleeved t-shirt', 'short length' sleeve, 'round neckline', 'waist length', and 'relaxed loose fit' were preferred for the top design, and 'black', 'shorts', 'full elastic type' waistband, 'regular fit that fits the body well' were preferred for the bottom design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.247-264
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• 1993

This study deals with the manufacturing of the foundation garments for the well-balanced somatotype of the Korean middle-aged womenhood. In order to get hold of the different somatotypes, a survey of a total of 134 middle-aged women in Kwangju area, ranging in their age from 45 through 59 was made. The statistical methods used for the analysis of the basic data were the Pearson's correlation coefficient, Anova, Cluster analysis and Stepwise. Emphasis of the try-on test was placed on (1) the comparison of anthropometric data before and after trying on the foundation garments, (2) sensory evaluation, (3) a rating on fit and performance, (4) the comparison by means of photograph. The conclusions obtained are as follows : 1) The 134 women sampled and measured were classified into the five groups of somatotype : the 52 women (34%) belong to Cluster 1 ; the 22 women(14.5%) belong in Cluster 2 ; the 12 women(7.9%) belong in Cluster 3 ; the 15 women(9.9%) belong in Cluster 4 ; the 33 women(27.7%) belong to Cluster 5. 2) As for the characteristics of the foundation garment design, the V-shaped neckline and chest dart was used. The adjust point is right above the perineum point. The foundation garment length is as far as trochanteric point. The materials used are cotton/polyurethane, lace, 100%cotton. The materials used for corrections were the sponge pad for the chest, and non-woven fabric pad for the back, shoulder and the hip. 3) The comparison of the anthropometric data of the subject when dressed in foundation garments showed a significant difference in bust point height, in bust point length and in nipple-ta-nipple breadth, which proves the foundation garments to be effective in correcting such part as the chest, the hip and the abdomen. 4) As considered in terms of the sensory evaluation, the item except for the shoulder and the armhole coincided with each other in the mean value and in the composite reliability coefficient, which also proves the foundation garments to be effective. 5) Subjects were satisfactory on fit, performance, design, of the foundation garment, and their changed appearance. 6) In the case of the comparison through the photographs, the silhouettes of all the five women subjects were found effectively to be balanced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.727-737
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• 2023

This study aimed to provide basic data for the design and R&D of golf wear intended for 64 people in their 40s, 50s, and 60s by identifying the needs for golfers through a survey of golf wear purchasing conditions and preferences. The findings shows that purchases are made at permanent discount stores, and information about products are discovered through TV and Internet advertisements. Golf wear is purchased once or twice a year, with annual expenditures ranging from KRW 500,000 to less than 1 million, with single purchases ranging from KRW 200,000 to less than 500,000. When purchasing golf wear, design was considered first, with women preferring white garment, while men preferred black and gray ones. Men tended to prefer a PK collar button fastening style, while women preferred a knit style with a round neckline. Women preferred semi-fitted and fitted styles, while men preferred semi-fitted and loose-fitting styles, showing significant differences. When considering the production of golf wear, the younger the age of the consumer, the more the results indicated that the design needed to look younger, so it is the necessary to design golf wear that reflects the functional need of golfer while prioritizing designs for various ages.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.