• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.49-65
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• 2001

This thesis aims to reveal the unsatisfactory unfitting factors in the tight collars of adult males' dress shirts for the purpose of improving neck-collar fitness. For this study, nine adult males were chosen as the subjects. When the subjects erected their necks upright, the researcher conducted an experiment, using the direct anthropometrical measuring method and the gypsum method by turns, in order to understand neck shapes by way of right-neck lateral flection, left-neck lateral flection, neck flection, neck extension, right neck rotation, and left neck rotation. And then, the propriety of allowances from body surface alteration was verified by analyses through the measurement of wearing comfortableness and clothing pressure in two sorts of ready-made dress shirts, which had different allowances. The consequences of this study are as follows: 1. In length alteration to movement, a decrease was found in the opposite (and an increase in the identical) directions of right-neck lateral flection, left-neck lateral flection, and neck flection movements. Also, when the subjects shook their heads, an increase was seen by 0.42$\sim$0.63cm in neck girth, 0.31$\sim$1.12cm in 3cm-above-the-neck base girth, and 1.16cm in neck extension of 3cm-above-the-neck base girth. 2. As a result of the drafts of surface measurement, the alteration ratios of dimensions and vertical length dropped in the identical directions of the movement, but grew in the opposite directions. A reverse change was shown in horizontal length. The rough widening gaps for making drafts were 0.7cm in front left and right, and 0.2cm in back left and right of 3cm-above-the-neck base girth. On the whole, the space was about 1.8cm, while there was no significant variation between the upright stationary test and the movement test. 3. There were important differences between the two kinds of ready-made dress shirts (Type A: 1cm allowance in neck girth; Type B: 2cm allowance) in clothing pressure and wearing comfortableness. That is, Type A had higher pressure and more uncomfortable sense of wearing. In other words, as clothing pressure and wearing comfortableness are negatively related to each other, Type A's greater clothing pressure led to worse wearing comfortableness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.167-176
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• 2001

This study analyzes characterization and classification of body types of Mongolian women aged 18∼39 ages. The anthropometric measurements of the research subjects come up to a total of 23 items and are summarized as follows : 1. As the results of comparative analysis of the body measurements by age group, 16 items show a significant difference except shoulder height, thigh girth, neck base girth, back length shoulder length, sleeve length and weight. Both age group are considered to be of average weight but 25 to 39 age group were slightly greater than that of the 18 to 24 age group. 2. As the results of factor analysis, 4 factors such as the first factor on the obesity of body, the second factor on the vertical size of body, the third factor on the back length, the forth factor on the shoulder width and neck base girth were extracted. 3. As the results of classification based on the duster analysis, the body types were classified into 3 types in each age group. In each age group the most frequent body type is average stature and slightly thin type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1190-1202
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• 2009

A 3D body scan measurement (SM) is used as an alternative to physical measurements (PM) as the information for designing industrial products. This study compared the mean difference (MD) between SM and PM by gender and analyzed the causes of the difference. The data used in this study were the scan measurements and physical measurements of adults aged twenty to seventy years old of the fifth Size Korea survey. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The comparison of MD between men and women for all subjects: The measurement of the significant differences between men and women were height, neck base girth, chest girth, under-bust girth, waist girth, armscye girth, back length, and foot length. The causes of difference are the difference of body shape. 2. The comparison of MD between men and women by BMI groups: Many measurements had significant differences between men and women at normal weight and overweight but underweight. Some measurements had significant differences only at a specific BMI group because the body shape difference between men and women is revealed clearly in the group. The comparison of MD between men and women by age groups: The measurements that show significant difference at more than four age groups were neck girth, chest girth, under-bust girth, waist girth, armscye girth, and foot length. The height and abdomen girth had a significant difference in the age range of 20's and 30's. There were measurements that increase MD with an increase in age; under-bust girth and lateral shoulder length for women and lateral shoulder length for men. This comparison of MD between men and women provide the correct guidelines for the use of SM.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.463-470
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• 1995

Anthropological measurements concerning 29 items were made on 37 adult males aged from 20 to 60. Factor analysis was applied in all 36 items. The main results are as gallows 1. Neck girth and need base girth are smaller. in the elder croup than the gouger group. 2. These decrease occur in the frontal part of the neck. 3. Neck frontal width decreases with age, but side depth increases. 4. The back part of the body depth at the level of the shoulder increases with age. 5. For the factor analysis, the third factor is a factor of forms, the variations of which has a relation with age.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.151-162
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to examine the point at issue unfitness and unclassification in figures for clothing construction. Comparing measurements of 3 sold figures and physical body by Suck·Go method and 19 items were selected. These items were acquired by factor analysis and cluster analysis an measurements of 200 women in twenties. The results were as follows; 1. Comparison between measurement of figures and physical body; There was not so much difference among figures, but significant difference between figures and physical body. 2. Comparison between measurement of surface area of figures and physical body; There was similar to each figure, but significant difference between figures and physical body. Mostly, figures were bigger than physical body in front parts but smaller in back parts. 3. There were 8 items selected by factor analysis; That is bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, neck base girth, posterior waist length, bust point length, chest breadth and armscye girth. 4. There were 7 clusters selected by cluster analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

In order to know what sorts of features of neck form may be required to make plans for tight collars, the neck form of young japanese women were measured three demension-ally using GRASP(Grating Projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL program in MACINTOSHI computer, it became possible to draft a number of neck surface auomatically, therefore, we got analysis of a mass of subjects. Thed following results were obtained: 1. There was a large individual difference in the shape of neck, in particular, on the front and side curves of the neck base line, where the undulation of clavicular part of neck and inclination of shoulder are refracted. 2. When designing a stand collar, from the viewpoint of clothing strcture, it is important to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, back neck length, back neck width & girth. 3. According to the somatotypes(turing-over, standard, bending type), there were different the method of the basic collar pattern making.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.353-359
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the jacket pattern drafting method for Korean middle-aged women. The study was composed as follows : 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis : Two hundreds and forty four middle-aged women between the ages of forty five and fifty nine were measured on 52 items. 2. Development of new jacket pattern drafting method : Measurement items necessary to draft new jacket pattern were back waist length, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, back interscye breadth, front interscye breadth, neck base girth, nipple length, nipple to nipple breadth, 1/2 posterior shoulder length and sleeve length. Basic jackets constructed from the experimental patterns were examined through the fitting test. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method : The sensory evaluations for appearance and comfort were applied to evaluate the new jacket pattern by comparing it with one of the conventional jacket patterns (Lee Hyung-Suk's). According to the result of sensory evaluation, the new jacket pattern was more positive.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.621-631
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• 1974

The objective of the study was to obtain standard sizes of body of the high school girls for designing clothes and developing pattern grading of clothes. In 1972, 342 students, selected by the stratified cluster random sampling method, at three high schools in Seoul were measured on forty-one items by the R. Martin method. Statistical techniques of mean, standard deviation, coefficient variable, maximum and minimum, range, t-test were utilized to analyze the data. The findings of the study were as follows ; 1. No differences were found among the age groups in the all measured variables. 2. Stature, bust girth, hip girth, acromion width, posterior waist girth/stature ratio of the high school girls were significantly smaller than those sizes of adult women. This result implies that those sizes will be increased as the students grow up. But upper arm girth, upper arm girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh girth/bust girth ratio were bigger than those sizes of adult women. Waist girth, thigh girth, total head height/stature ratio, acromion width/stature ratio, and foot length/stature ratio were nearly similiar to those of adult women. 3. According to the result of t-test, waist breadth, spinailiaca anterior height/stature ratio, thigh girth/bust girth ratio, and thigh/hip girth ratio of the 15 year old group were significantly different from those of the 16 year old group at the level of 0.05. Bust girth, weight, foot breadth, posterior croth length, and cervical height/stature ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.01. Hip girth, upper arm girth, waist breadth/stature ratio, and neck base girth/bust girth ratio of the 16 year old group were significantly different from those of the 17 year old group at the level of 0.05.